Results 21 to 33 of 33
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02-06-2008, 01:32 PM #21
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11-30-2009, 06:01 PM #22
ya my housing is cracked and moisture gets in and corroded/burned the socket. how do you replace the actual housing??
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11-30-2009, 06:21 PM #23
Ive done the whole clean it out thing but i did the opposite where i actually pushed the bulb all the way in and then i pull it out like not even a 1/8" Some thing was funny with mine and i cleaned it one day AND put a new bulb in and it still was not blinking, or it was just blink when it wanted to. I thought it was loose. So i shoved it ws far as i could but it stilll was just solid. I wiggled it a bit and pulled it out just ever so and it stays put and it blinks like it should. No scorching or anything like that. Went to Georgia and back from wisconsin and no probs. Oh and as you drive water, (if you drive in the rain and give it a few years in my case 10) and the blinker houses actually crack and (micro you can only see it if you force air into it from the outside) water starts to push its way in, as well as moisture from humidity and what not and after a while you got your self a blinker slushy, Mmmmm tasty.
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12-01-2009, 05:00 AM #24
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- Location
- Indianapolis
- Age
- 62
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- 5,188
Black- 2000 WS6 6spd Hooker LT
Most of the time the water gets in from above, not the front cracks like people think or where the bulb/socket assembly fits into the lamp housing. It can get thru the front if the cracks are big enough, but usually the water gets in from the top of the housing. Since the DRLs are always on, they get hot, and the heat warps/cracks the top of the housing. If you take the whole housing out, (easy to do with a 7mm hex nut driver, there are only 2 bolts holding it in from below), you will see the cracking on the top. I've sealed my cracks, and now no more moisture in the lamp socket, and no water to drip on top of the bulb causing it to shatter.
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12-01-2009, 06:47 PM #25
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12-02-2009, 04:27 AM #26
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- Location
- Indianapolis
- Age
- 62
- Posts
- 5,188
Black- 2000 WS6 6spd Hooker LT
I used some RTV gasket maker to seal mine. Just ran it along the crack. I like running my finger along the crack!
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12-02-2009, 11:04 AM #27
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02-18-2010, 09:55 AM #28
- Join Date
- Jan 2010
- Location
- Phoenix, AZ
- Posts
- 77
Red- 2000 Trans AM
If the light is solid on ur cluster it may be ur drl module, simple $12 fix, worth a try.
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03-19-2010, 12:08 PM #29
- Join Date
- Mar 2010
- Location
- Connecticut
- Posts
- 2
Red- 1994 Firebird 3.4
Very helpful picture.
right On!
Last edited by Pancake Mechanic; 03-19-2010 at 12:09 PM. Reason: Wrong thread
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04-25-2014, 01:55 PM #30
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Location
- Frederick, MD
- Posts
- 9
brian.mayer@gmail.com- 2001 Pontiac TA WS6 Vert
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04-25-2014, 03:33 PM #31
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05-22-2014, 09:17 AM #32
I realize this thread is really old, but...you can use tail light sockets from a 1998 Monte Carlo as turn signal sockets for f bodies. Part #85881. Works great and much cheaper. I picked up two at oreilley for $7 each
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05-22-2014, 11:26 AM #33
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Muncie, IN
- Posts
- 2,554
00 TA PWTR, 98 VertTA NBM- 80 TA BLK, 80 Formula NBM
2000 TA, A4, LS6 intake, Magnaflow, WS9 hood, BMR STB, UMI boxed SFC, Spohn LCA, 9" Ford
1998 TA Vert, NBM, M6, Flowmaster, WS6 hood, WS6 airbox, C6 wheels, UMI SFC, BMR STB
1998 Bird, Black, V6, A4, 18" 077's, Wings West Body Kit
1980 Formula, NBM, 402BB, cam, DR timing, LT headers, 3" TD w/ flowmasters, TH350
1980 TA, Black, 301, bone stock
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