air and fuel lines

[shady milkman]

it's cool man! I mean, only what, 5/6 months ago you were still asking "how should i mod my car" then in the last 7 days you post all kinda techy shit, what with that PM and all too! Good for you

aww thanks

[bigrondownhiller]

With a flaring tool you could flare the end of the fuel line for a an-fitting. I am not sure what degree the an- uses though.

[third_shift|studios]

With a flaring tool you could flare the end of the fuel line for a an-fitting. I am not sure what degree the an- uses though.

so i've been told-thank you for commenting. I was on the phone a few times yesterday with multiple parts in my hands screaming WTF DO I DO WITH THIS!!! to Jegs tech line. Finally they told me "it is impossible to attach an AN-fitting to a hard line w/out serious manipulation to the hard line"

WHY is that not mentioned in the god damn website text?

[pajeff02]

I am pretty sure that an AN fitting has a 37 degree flare and I believe there are adapters to go from tubing to AN by using a sleeve and a nut. You would cut off the existing flare, slide the nut and sleeve over the tube and then re-flare it. Try russellperformance.com

[SandmanWs7]

Part 1: Air lines...this is a continuation from an older thread. I had noticed a broken air line (A) and it never threw a code, so i followed the line (B first pic to B second pic) and put a cap on it at that joice-is that ok?






Part 2: i'm trying to attach 6AN braided line to the main hard fuel line(A)-but i don't know what i need to do it. Also-is it true that the Evap line (B) can be capped off b/c it's only for emissions? There is currently fuel in that line, is it ok to cap it where it is?

If your intake is off, why dont you just pull all that AIR shit out? You dont need it....

[Deviant LS1]

You don't need to flare the ends. You need a "tubing to an" adapter. It works just like a hard line coupler with a furrel to hold the line.

I did a similar an setup on my old car. I had to cut the factory hard line to get that "quick disconnect" off. Then tighten the coupler to hold the hard line. The local speed shop only had the "tubing to an adapter" in once size so I had to run an NTP fitting to make it work but you can order them in any size you want just about. I then used factory style quick disconnects on the fuel rail side.






I'm not too familiar with the LS1 fuel setup. Do all years have a feed or return or just a feed?

As far as the evap goes. You don't really need it. Pull the solenoid and lines. Do not plug the evap line running from the gas tank. Just leave it open so the fumes can vent freely. You'll throw evap codes but you can just get rid of those with HPtuners.

[third_shift|studios]

You don't need to flare the ends. You need a "tubing to an" adapter. It works just like a hard line coupler with a furrel to hold the line.

I did a similar an setup on my old car. I had to cut the factory hard line to get that "quick disconnect" off. Then tighten the coupler to hold the hard line. The local speed shop only had the "tubing to an adapter" in once size so I had to run an NTP fitting to make it work but you can order them in any size you want just about. I then used factory style quick disconnects on the fuel rail side.






I'm not too familiar with the LS1 fuel setup. Do all years have a feed or return or just a feed?

As far as the evap goes. You don't really need it. Pull the solenoid and lines. Do not plug the evap line running from the gas tank. Just leave it open so the fumes can vent freely. You'll throw evap codes but you can just get rid of those with HPtuners.

FFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUHHHHHH!!!!!!!!! that looks awesome. I talked to Jegs a bunch of times and they kept telling me there is no way to go from hard line to AN w/out serious manipulation.

[third_shift|studios]

If your intake is off, why dont you just pull all that AIR shit out? You dont need it....

I am I was worried that in doing so, it would have a negative effect. Didn't know what could/couldnt' go.

[SandmanWs7]

I am I was worried that in doing so, it would have a negative effect. Didn't know what could/couldnt' go.

From what I understand the AIR system just pumps air into your system to get the O2s/Cats to their performance level faster to get emissions lower faster. If you have/or are getting an off road y pipe you dont need it.

Oh but it will set of a code, which can be turned off with a tune.

[third_shift|studios]

From what I understand the AIR system just pumps air into your system to get the O2s/Cats to their performance level faster to get emissions lower faster. If you have/or are getting an off road y pipe you dont need it.

Oh but it will set of a code, which can be turned off with a tune.

i yanked it out two trash days ago

[Cutlass]

Alright this may be too obvious, but if there are AN quick connect fitting for the fuel rail end of the line, why not use the same AN quick connect fittings on the hard line side????

[Deviant LS1]

Alright this may be too obvious, but if there are AN quick connect fitting for the fuel rail end of the line, why not use the same AN quick connect fittings on the hard line side????

On my particular application it wasn't a quick disconnect on the hard line. It was more of a flare/barb to hold a heat-molded nylon line. I had to cut the nylon fuel line off the hard line and then cut the barb off to get a nice clean piece of line. Sorry for the confusion.

Do the LS1's use a quick disconnect style fitting on the factory hard line?

[Cutlass]

oh ok...yeah you might be correct. Alot of GM cars are like that.
I just went out and looked at my 99 'Bird and it has quick connect on both the fuel rail side and the hard line.

[third_shift|studios]

oh ok...yeah you might be correct. Alot of GM cars are like that.
I just went out and looked at my 99 'Bird and it has quick connect on both the fuel rail side and the hard line.

oh well...

[Cutlass]

Yeah TSS, I looked back at your photos and it looks like you have the quick connect flare on your hard lines so you should be able to use a quick connect on both ends of the braided lines.