Clutch or tranny??

[youngun67]

Ok here's the deal. I have a 98 TA recently dynoed w/ 400 hp and 370 tq at the wheels. I had got a new tranny about 2 years ago and have a centerforce dual friction clutch. I was having a little difficulty shifting under power before the tune, after I got it tuned I cant shift hard at the track. Under normal conditions it shifts fine.

Im thinking it's the syncros, but hoping its the clutch not being able to handle the power. SO to all the guys smarter than me... What do you think?

[cammed goat]

What happens? Gears grind? You might have to change your clutch master cylinder and line.

[cammed goat]

Did the tuner disable the skip-shift/CAGS?

[Cutlass]

It could be the classic clutch hydraulics problem or it could be the clutch itself. You could try the drill mod or get a Tick clutch master cylinder. If that doesn't fix it, then a different clutch should.

[youngun67]

Drill mod can you help me out a lil on that?

[Spaz]

won't go in to gear... like hitting a wall with no grinding sound???

[youngun67]

Spaz,

yeah a lot like that and then if I keep forcing it, it will grind and when the rpms come down I can get it into gear.

[SMWS6TA]

^^

that sounds like syncros...



How many miles on the tranny?

[Cutlass]

Drill mod can you help me out a lil on that?

There is a restriction built into the master cylinder hydraulic line down to the slave. The restriction is there to slow the clutch action at high rpms to prevent damage and warranty claims (when these cars were new). The modification involves removing the master cylinder with the line attached, removing the line from the master, and drilling out the restriction. I've done it and it makes a noticeable difference in how the clutch feels and works.

Here's a write up on the sticky clutch pedal that kinda describes it.

Sticky clutch pedal

And here's a write-up on how to do the drill mod. The actual drill mod procedure starts at step 16

Drill Mod