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Thread: rear end whine..
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08-13-2010, 07:09 PM #1
- Join Date
- Jul 2009
- Location
- Fort Worth, TX
- Posts
- 25
Silver- 2002 WS6
rear end whine..
when i make a hard slow turn going either right or left, forward or reverse, the rear end whines. Is this normal? if not what can be done? its on an 02 TA
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08-14-2010, 05:19 AM #2
Sounds like what mine is doing. Mine has almost completely locked itself together. With the rear tires in the air, you should be able to spin each wheel independently. With mine, you have to practically sit on the wheel to keep it from rotating while a friend turns the other. If you put the car in gear, both wheels begin to turn immediately.
I"m fixing to replace my LSD since it's locked itself together....
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08-16-2010, 05:48 PM #3
A little gear whine won't hurt anything.
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08-18-2010, 01:46 PM #4
As long as it doesn't get worse over time.
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08-18-2010, 04:34 PM #5
Well mine howls like a scolded dog. Screams pretty loud. Still tough as nails and takes 6,500+ dumps on slicks.
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08-18-2010, 06:03 PM #6
Start saving your money! Plan about a grand just for a good rebuild with a new gear and bearings. And, in my opinion it's just a band-aid.
Been there, fixed that. And now I'm fixing it again- this time for good.
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08-19-2010, 06:14 AM #7
- Join Date
- Jul 2009
- Location
- Fort Worth, TX
- Posts
- 25
Silver- 2002 WS6
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08-19-2010, 01:53 PM #8
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08-19-2010, 05:41 PM #9
MWC Fabricated 9"- no more wimpy 10 bolt for me... something about a better clutch and 315's on the rear just don't agree with the stock rear.
Depending on the fluid, you could try to flush it to get rid of any metal in the fluid, but if the damage is done there's no amount of fluid change that will fix it. Whine is usually caused in the gears, roaring in the bearings.
I do happen to have a Moser aluminum cover and Moser bearing cap studs that I am about ready to part with. They fit the stock rear and even though they may not make the rear bullet proof, they will give you a little extra security when you're dealing with a stocker.
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08-28-2010, 11:30 PM #10
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
- Location
- Michigan
- Posts
- 76
Black- 1998 Trans Am
Have you ever changed the fluid in it? If you left out the limited slip additive it can cause the the rear to become locked all the time.
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08-29-2010, 09:55 AM #11
This.
I swapped out my diff fluid about 3 months ago and used Royal Purple. I was told by the RP rep and by several places online that the limited slip additive wasn't needed when you use RP. Once my clutches started locking up, I called RP again and talked to one of their tech guys who said: "I'm going to be honnest with you, the fluid is for diffs with LSD but does not have the limited slip modifier in it."
So, when I do a fluid swap again, no RP for me. I'll use Valvoline synthetic with AcDelco 10-4003.
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08-29-2010, 12:44 PM #12
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08-30-2010, 06:23 PM #13
- Join Date
- Jul 2009
- Location
- Fort Worth, TX
- Posts
- 25
Silver- 2002 WS6
will do this probably in the next few days. I bought the car used and I have no idea what was done with the car except it is stock and was serviced at a dealership a few times. Is it hard to do? there a how to? My brother is more savey than i am but he works opposite hours than me so its hard to find time for the help from him
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08-30-2010, 06:23 PM #14
- Join Date
- Jul 2009
- Location
- Fort Worth, TX
- Posts
- 25
Silver- 2002 WS6
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08-30-2010, 06:39 PM #15
Fwiw from everything I've read and from my differential guy regular dino 80/90 is preferred. That's what I use.
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08-30-2010, 07:59 PM #16
Easy enough to do. Loosen bolts on cover, pop the cover loose and let it drain. Take cover off, clean up gasket/silicone and clean off the magnet. Silicone the cover, tighten it back down, and fill it up with the Synthetic fluid and the LSD additive. Fill to the fill hole. Takes about a half hour.
I'd reccommend after filling it to not give it hell until you do a heat cycle and make sure everything is good and coated.
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08-31-2010, 02:30 PM #17
- Join Date
- Jul 2009
- Location
- Fort Worth, TX
- Posts
- 25
Silver- 2002 WS6
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08-31-2010, 05:33 PM #18
Drive it around to operating temp at low speeds. Don't run it hard or at high speeds. I was always told to do a few heat cycles when you break in a gear, and when you change fluid do at least one heat cycle.
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