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02-08-2009, 12:19 AM #1
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
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- Mansfield, OH
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- 41
Black/Red- 98 Trans Am/99 Firebird
Using 1.5" lowering springs with stock shocks?
I have a 98 TA with 57k miles on it. I am about to have someone install a set of lowering springs on it and I was wondering if I need to have new shocks installed as well.. Any thoughts?
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02-08-2009, 12:35 AM #2
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- Aug 2005
- Location
- Columbia,SC
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- 52
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- 511
Millienum Yellow- 2003 Corvette Z06
plenty have done it on stock shocks but it is highly recommended to swap shocks..strano makes a great set!!
Shawn
Daily: 2003 MY Z06 D1SC | Toy: 2006 Hayabusa Garrett T-3 | Hauler: 2007 Nissan Titan LE CC
I like being Blown!!
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02-08-2009, 12:40 AM #3
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- Feb 2009
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- Mansfield, OH
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- 41
Black/Red- 98 Trans Am/99 Firebird
So I should replace the front and rear shocks? Ok. What about an adjustable panhard bar? Do I need that? Everyone says you absolutely need it if you lower an fbody..
"A blind chimpanzee driving a WS6 with a dead hooker strapped to the hood should be able to put that thing deep into the 13's."
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02-08-2009, 01:07 AM #4
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- Aug 2005
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- Columbia,SC
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- 52
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- 511
Millienum Yellow- 2003 Corvette Z06
I swapped all my shocks and springs for best handling and ride..I also added a adj pan hard in the event you need to adjust the rear once you lower it... I didnt have to adjust mine.
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02-08-2009, 05:47 AM #5
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- Oct 2006
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- St. Clair Shores. Michigan
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- 56
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- 1,602
Navy Blue Metallic- `98 Formula M6 HdTp
Do it all at once, it will save you the hassle of doing the fronts twice when you get new shocks.
For lowewring springs Koni's would be my first choice then billstiens.
And an adj panhard bar is a must.Craig
Semi Retired Street Racer
2012 Lava Red Mustang GT Coupe Brembo/3.73's
Build Date 3/17/11, Last Lava Red GT
Gone but not forgoten
NBM `98 Formula M6 HdTp
1 of 1 Build Date 3/12/98
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02-08-2009, 07:02 AM #6
you can use stock shocks but they are beat. koni adjustables all the way around. . . .they are expensive but you get what ya pay for
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02-08-2009, 02:08 PM #7
- Join Date
- Jun 2002
- Location
- Montreal, CANADA
- Age
- 50
- Posts
- 3,190
triple-black- 2000 CamaroSS convertible
shocks are a must... stock one suck.
By lowering, the rates are most certainely higher, making the stock shocks even worse on that situation... so you'd want shocks regardless.Eugenio_SS
almost stock triple-black 2000 SS convertible with 17x11s on all 4 w/ 315s at the track or on the street with 18x10.5s on all 4 w/ 315s: (1), (2)
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02-08-2009, 05:59 PM #8
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- Aug 2005
- Location
- Pittsburgh, PA
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- 43
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- 21,720
My life is a- Ben Stiller movie.
shout out to a fellow Ohio'n. I've been through mansfield a few times enroute to the in'laws.
that said-don't trust everything you're told by internet posts, etc. Talk to suspension specialists like Sam Strano (how about he doesn't even sponsor here, but we all just know lol).
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02-08-2009, 06:00 PM #9
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02-08-2009, 06:01 PM #10
you can trust my posts
2000 red ss: >2" drop, koni adjustables 'n 275 s-compounds all way around, giant brakes, dynatech LT's, borla catback (no plate), t56, tubular everything, HARD TOP, caged, "stock" heads 'n a mean cam. -2* front camber.
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02-08-2009, 06:08 PM #11
just 'cuz he "didnt have to adjust it" doesn't mean it's in the right place. although most lowering kits require panhard adjustments, strange enough as it may be, some cars just seem to keep the rear in place. i really dunno why, it must be variance in position of the panhard body mount from factory, 'cuz i've seen more than one car with perfect geometry after lowering.
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02-08-2009, 06:16 PM #12
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02-08-2009, 06:25 PM #13
so if it's not centered properly from factory, it might just fall into place after lowering.
i'm certainly not saying i would avoid putting an adjustable panhard rod on my car. no matter what, i'd put one on any f-body i owned, and check geometry/adjust accordingly. in fact, i check/adjust between every race.
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02-08-2009, 06:42 PM #14
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02-08-2009, 06:49 PM #15
if the rear isn't aligned from factory, either raising the car or lowering the car is gonna put it in place. . .but i wasn't originally saying that for debate sake. it was more a joke than anything else. i was stating my experience with suspension setups, to be heeded however by whoever.
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02-08-2009, 07:09 PM #16
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- Oct 2006
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- St. Clair Shores. Michigan
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- 56
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- 1,602
Navy Blue Metallic- `98 Formula M6 HdTp
Sorry man I'm not here to argue with anyone.
Most of the Factory F-bodies I have seen have the rears biased towards the Left side. And to properly center them the bars need to be shortened. When I added my staggered wheels I ended up getting an adj PHB even though I was on stock springs.
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02-08-2009, 07:10 PM #17
What about non-adjustable rear panhand bars? You can look at signature for mods.
-Aaron
Mods: SLP Flowpac Cold Air Induction Package, 160 Thermo, TB bypass, SLP (Clutch, Pressure Plate, Flywhell), Skip Shift Elminator, UMI (SFC, Tower Brace, LCA, Torque Arm, Panhand Bar), no cats, Moser 9" w/ 3.89 gears, 5.0 short throw, Strano Springs, Koni single adj, '94 OEM ZR-1 wheels
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02-08-2009, 07:19 PM #18
here's a good way to put it: because of the delicacy of the rear axle position (by design of the components that hold axle in place) it is crucial to constantly check the geometry and adjust accordingly. that means you will have to adjust it constantly due to stress, change in ride height, bushing wear, or you may get away with seldom adjustment/one-time adjustment, or never adjusting it at all.
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02-08-2009, 08:21 PM #19
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Mansfield, OH
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- 41
Black/Red- 98 Trans Am/99 Firebird
Ok, so in addition to my lowering springs, I have an adjustable panhard bar and a set of front & rear shocks on the way. How do people adjust the panhard bar? Just like by using their eye or a tape measure, or what? I'm planning to have a shop install all of this, since I really don't trust myself. Or if anyone in my area wants to make some quick $$ + pizza + beer, let me know, haha..
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02-09-2009, 05:20 AM #20
if you were around me i'd do it for bud light. it's not hard and it comes with instructions. you are gonna pay a shop through your johnson to get it done. yep, to adjust panhard bar you can start by eyin' up the rear on both sides @ fender, then gettin in there with a wrench to adjust. that's usually good enough, but a tape measure is only way to get it 100% perfect in your driveway. need to make sure car is oncompletely flat surface.
By the way, which panhard rod did you get? some panhard rods can't be adjusted on the car, which kinda defeats the purpose of having adjustability.
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