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Thread: Best Slotted and Drilled Rotors
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02-11-2007, 05:48 PM #21
Damn!!! I just checked the price of a big brake kit form Brembo...are they kidding??? Car should flip over onto it's roof when ya hit the brakes for that money.
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02-11-2007, 05:59 PM #22
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That's about what you're going to pay for that kinda brake kit. You wanna stop on a dime from 120... there you go
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02-11-2007, 08:37 PM #23
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02-12-2007, 07:15 AM #24
Jus' lemme get over the initial sticker shock...lol
Doesn't Baer make a 6 piston caliper brake kit for less? Which would lead to a whole nuther question...what's better 4 piston or 6 piston, is more really better? Size of the caliper equal, I would think the pistons are just smaller, more parts...more that could go wrong. Is Baer's setup considered a "big brake" setup?
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02-12-2007, 07:24 AM #25
We have GREAT luck with Bears rotors....... Get the zinced washed ones and they'll never rust. They also come slotted and cross drilled for maximum heat and gas disapation. You can get the one piece design for Much cheaper than the 2 piece one that have a removable "hat".
Then I would install some HAWK pads at the same time. Just make sure you break in or "season" the rotors as directed in the instructions.
Just upgrade to the bigger dia. rotors with the stock calipers unless your on a unlimited budget.Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!
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02-12-2007, 07:37 AM #26
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02-12-2007, 11:30 AM #27
i went from stock rotors to the slotted and drilled stock rotors from wholsale direct. nothing else, same brake pads and both cars stop quicker now. slots and holes allow the gases and pad material to escape from between the rotor and pad. my experience. take it for what it's worth.
Cold Air Intake, Muffler Delete, Vinci High Performance Dual Valve Springs, Hardened Pushrods, Yella Terra 1.85 Rockers, Some Hydropdipped Stuff, Strut Tower Brace, Some SS Badges, boost/vacuum gauge, fuel pressure gauge, some checkered stripes, drilled/slotted rotors, ZL1addons Stealth wickerbill, Ruxifey LED side markers
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02-12-2007, 12:51 PM #28
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02-12-2007, 11:02 PM #29
No problems with cracking and warping? Have you ever had to slam on 'em?
Are you using ceramic pads? Not sure what the ones that came stock are made out of.
What is shooting out of the ur hood in ur avatar? Is that from nitrous?
I want smoke to blow out of the nostrils (as I like to call 'em on my WS6) think that would look pretty sick, like a dragon snortin.
Better yet, just ask my brother who is the commercial accounts manager at an autozone...heheheheeeLast edited by {FzS}BlacKMagicK; 02-12-2007 at 11:10 PM.
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02-12-2007, 11:59 PM #30
I'm glad to see that Predator has finally developed the ultimate braking system! Why, if swept area has no bearing on braking force, then you could have a brake pad no larger than a postage stamp! Think of the savings in material and manufacturing costs! Manufacturers wouldn't have to offer big brake kits any more!! BlackMagicK, if you go to a big brake kit typically you get a larger rotor and the caliper has to be remounted slightly outward from the original mounting point to accomodate the larger rotor diameter. Most kits offer a larger caliper too that takes a larger pad to fully utilize the increased swept area of the bigger rotor (some offer 4 piston calipers - big $$$). To clear the larger rotor and calipers you may need a bigger wheel - the manufacturer of the kit should have experience with wheel clearance issues. You don't need a 6 piston caliper for street use, it's a waste of money.
Last edited by Fastcar; 02-13-2007 at 12:05 AM. Reason: added stuff
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02-13-2007, 03:24 AM #31
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im glad to see you ppl have finally disproven a law of physics... dont get me wrong... there are reasons for larger surface area... such as the fact that pads are brittle and if you applied all the compression force through such a small area you would prolly crush the pad... also wear would be a huge issue using such a small foot print...
big brake kits move the application of force out... increasing the moment that the friction can apply... as i pointed out earlier...
and seriously if the foot print is such a good thing y are there not dual calipers per rotors...
oh and im glad to see youve already heard about my prototype for the world greates braking system... ill see if i can link a pic for you...
yep here you go...
there you go... only problem is removing the wheel is a real bitch and the further you move the weight away from the center of rotation the more hp your drain parasitically... but it woudl stop like a bastard...
i mean look at buell sport bikes... tiny calipers located as far out as possible... wonder y they would do that... just be idiots...
-meLast edited by mrr23; 02-14-2007 at 05:15 PM.
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02-13-2007, 04:27 AM #32
i cracked a rear pair once from being in a bunout contest. i full minute doing a burnout overheated the rotors. got them replaced and haven't cracked since. i've had them on both cars for over a year now.
yes, i've had to slam on the brakes.
using standard semi-metallic pads.
yes, that is nitrous coming out of my purge. here's how i had it ran out the front
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02-14-2007, 08:24 AM #33
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02-14-2007, 09:30 AM #34
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02-14-2007, 09:43 AM #35
u could just find a wrecked corvette and grab the rotors off of it.
just looking at it in a cheap way.
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02-14-2007, 12:02 PM #36
[QUOTE={FzS}BlacKMagicK;601962]Guess you need a line lock.
I think he warped his rear rotors from the heat of the burnin' rubber. I'd guess he already has linelock.Last edited by camarokiddave; 02-14-2007 at 12:14 PM. Reason: wording
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02-14-2007, 04:32 PM #37
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02-14-2007, 04:41 PM #38
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02-14-2007, 04:50 PM #39
hehe no problem man.
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02-14-2007, 05:17 PM #40
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