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Thread: Cam breakin procedure
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01-03-2007, 07:27 PM #1
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Pewter- 1999 Trans Am 5.7L
Cam breakin procedure
Once I have this new cam installed (comp cams 222/224) I would like to know how to break in this cam. I have heard that 20 min at 2000RPM is sufficient. Any thoughts? Thanks
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01-03-2007, 09:46 PM #2
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Turismo Blue- 2005 Holden 502rwhp
LSx engines run roller lifetrs, no need to break in the cam, if anything make sure it's coated in engine oil before you install it or cover the lobes with engine assembly lube just help on start up, other than that, no need to do anything else.
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01-04-2007, 05:28 AM #3
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black- 2000 nhra edition formula
agreed with above
2000 nhra edition formula
a few bolt ons, 379 rwhp
11.96 @113.25
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01-04-2007, 06:17 PM #4
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- Thornton, CO
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Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
Heat cycling the new valvesprings isn't a bad idea.
But as mentioned...the cam itself needs no break in.
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01-04-2007, 07:42 PM #5
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01-05-2007, 06:49 AM #6
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yellow- 02 Collector Edition TA
Yup no break in, its all roller not flat tap which did require break-in. Its more critical now running stiffer springs to let the engine reach operating temps before hammering on it. Stiffer springs = more brittle the metal
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01-05-2007, 08:28 AM #7
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black, 05 Roush- black, 99 T/A WS.6
Question for you guys, I have heard that the new springs need to be warm as stated above, but I am curious as to whether that is everytime the car is turned on you should let the engine heat up to heat the springs or is that supposed to be just the initial start up after springs are installed? Kinda confused on that, different people say different things, hell some say they dont need to heat up at all due to most manufacturers baking them before they sell them.
1999 T/A WS6 Black-------SOLD
05 mustang Roush sport;
DOB manifold, m122 SC, 47lb injectors, gt500 TB, roush TVS CAI, Detroit rocker SC grind camshafts, Mac LTs, off road x, roush off road mufflers, roush short throw shifter, kenne bell BAP, Brenspeed 93 octane tune. 479rwhp 436ftlbs SAE.
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01-05-2007, 08:40 AM #8
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Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
Both.
You want warm springs before going to max RPM's.
New springs you want to heat them up and then let them cool once. Always make sure you have warm oil up there before spinning it high.
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01-05-2007, 07:07 PM #9
valve springs these days don't need any heat cycling. the type of steel being used is not the same as he tool steel they used to use years ago.
now, yes, it's better for the entire engine, mainly cylinder walls, to wait until it's warmed up before beating on it.Cold Air Intake, Muffler Delete, Vinci High Performance Dual Valve Springs, Hardened Pushrods, Yella Terra 1.85 Rockers, Some Hydropdipped Stuff, Strut Tower Brace, Some SS Badges, boost/vacuum gauge, fuel pressure gauge, some checkered stripes, drilled/slotted rotors, ZL1addons Stealth wickerbill, Ruxifey LED side markers
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01-05-2007, 09:08 PM #10
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01-06-2007, 04:48 AM #11
Heat cycle!
The cam itself don't need break-in since it's a roller cam (Hydraulic roller lifters)
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01-06-2007, 06:41 AM #12
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Pewter- 1999 Trans Am 5.7L
Thanks guys appreciate it!
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01-06-2007, 11:23 AM #13
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black, 05 Roush- black, 99 T/A WS.6
I appreciate the feedback guys.
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01-06-2007, 12:07 PM #14
gas pedal to the floor
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01-06-2007, 03:06 PM #15
- Join Date
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- San Diego...Michigan originally
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Pewter- 1999 Trans Am 5.7L
Got the cam installed, it will be ready to crank in a couple of hours
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01-06-2007, 03:09 PM #16
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01-06-2007, 04:38 PM #17
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
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- 41
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Pewter- 1999 Trans Am 5.7L
Yeah, just as soon as I figure out how to load pics on the site, I will post some!!
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01-06-2007, 04:39 PM #18
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01-06-2007, 07:18 PM #19
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black, 05 Roush- black, 99 T/A WS.6
Terre Haute its like an hour Southwest of Indianapolis, My brother lives in elkhart though. Its near South Bend.
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01-08-2007, 11:57 AM #20
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