P0507 code

**theorangeguy** · 08-14-2013, 05:19 PM

About 2 weeks ago my car started idling a little higher than usual when I would push the clutch in or when the car was in neutral....when I came to a complete stop in the car it would idle normal. no codes ever popped up until today. I have noticed a high pitched noise that sounds a lot like an exhaust leak at the Y pipe but it could be a vacuum leak...I don't think it is, but it could be...I'm going to look at the exhaust leak tomorrow and fix that. Any ideas on where to start with anything else that could be causing this issue? Anything common that causes this issue?

**theorangeguy** · 08-14-2013, 06:04 PM

I went ahead and cleaned the IAC tonight...I'll post some pictures of some stuff that I have some questions about tomorrow. It looks like some stuff was deleted under the hood before I bought the car.

**pajeff02** · 08-14-2013, 06:50 PM

If that doesn't fix it... here are the most common issues related to that code:

• Vacuum leak
• Leaking air intake after the throttle body
• EGR valve leaking vacuum
• Faulty positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve
• Damaged/failed/dirty throttle body
• Failed EVAP system
• Failed IAC (idle air controller) or faulty IAC circuit

**2002ssslp** · 08-14-2013, 08:21 PM

I would suggest "smoking" the car to see where the leak is. JMO

**0rion** · 08-14-2013, 08:51 PM

For a vacuum leak the first place I would look is the pcv line where it bends to go into the intake.

**theorangeguy** · 08-15-2013, 03:39 AM

Originally Posted by 0rion

For a vacuum leak the first place I would look is the pcv line where it bends to go into the intake.

That and the IAC were the first things I checked last night. Visually the line looks good...

**2002ssslp** · 08-15-2013, 04:11 AM

Just smoke the car and stop guessing. You are going to waste hours searching for a leak that you may never find. Smoke is the only and right way to find and correct the problem quickly.

**theorangeguy** · 08-15-2013, 01:41 PM

Originally Posted by 2002ssslp

Just smoke the car and stop guessing. You are going to waste hours searching for a leak that you may never find. Smoke is the only and right way to find and correct the problem quickly.

Im going to post some pics tonight of some stuff that is not capped off that appears to have been deleted from before I bought the car...keep in mind, I've owned this car for like 3 or 4 months now and it hasnt had this problem until last week.

Besides taking my car to a shop and them hooking it up to a smoke machine, do you guys have any other recommendations on tracking it down myself? Pretty sure I didnt see a smoke machine on the tool rental list @ the auto parts store

I'd like to do it myself unless I absolutely have to pay somebody to hook up a smoker to it...

**35th-ANV-SS** · 08-15-2013, 01:53 PM

You could spray the vacuum lines/areas. If the idle changes, you've found your leak.

**pajeff02** · 08-15-2013, 03:01 PM

PCV hose also likes to die at the back of the engine on the passenger side. A high idle condition is almost always unmetered air entering the intake from somewhere. How about your throttle blade and cable? Check to make sure nothing is binding or hanging it open.

**theorangeguy** · 08-15-2013, 03:24 PM

First things first...my SES light went away on the way home from work so im assuming cleaning the IAC fixed that. car still idles high as before tho...

what the hell is this hose, what is it supposed to do/go to, and was something deleted?

It sounds like air is escaping through whatever this is...I can hear it pretty clearly. Could this cause a vacuum leak?

I also took a picture of this as well because its at a crazy angle...it felt pretty secure to the touch.

**0rion** · 08-15-2013, 04:18 PM

the top 2 are your air injection tubes....those used to connect to your exhaust manifolds. I'm assuming those are either blocked off if you still have stock manifolds or emission type headers or there's no risers if you have off road headers. Either way....I would go ahead and remove the rest of it and pull the fuse for the air pump. The 98's, like I have, were a little different set up but on the later models there is a vacuum line there that has to be plugged. Make sure that line is plugged. The bottom pictures are of the egr system which all looks normal to me.

Just looked at those pics again and I can see one of the air tubes in the background on your last pic. How are those terminated? There should be no air getting into the exhaust stream there except via the air injection system. Take a broader picture of your entire engine bay and let me see what you have going on there. It'd be nice to know if someone just half ass deleted that or if you have some pipes that are just disconnected. I'm assuming the air codes are tuned out or you'd be getting codes running it like it is in the picture.

**theorangeguy** · 08-15-2013, 04:33 PM

Originally Posted by 0rion

the top 2 are your air injection tubes....those used to connect to your exhaust manifolds. I'm assuming those are either blocked off if you still have stock manifolds or emission type headers or there's no risers if you have off road headers. Either way....I would go ahead and remove the rest of it and pull the fuse for the air pump. The 98's, like I have, were a little different set up but on the later models there is a vacuum line there that has to be plugged. Make sure that line is plugged. The bottom pictures are of the egr system which all looks normal to me.

Just looked at those pics again and I can see one of the air tubes in the background on your last pic. How are those terminated? There should be no air getting into the exhaust stream there except via the air injection system. Take a broader picture of your entire engine bay and let me see what you have going on there. It'd be nice to know if someone just half ass deleted that or if you have some pipes that are just disconnected. I'm assuming the air codes are tuned out or you'd be getting codes running it like it is in the picture.

ask and you shall receive...FYI the car is tuned by Vengeance Racing in Atlanta. It was throwing all kinds of emissions codes when I bought it and I had it tuned about 30days after I got it. Rear o2's, skip shift, egr...all the usual stuff you get rid of in a basic tune. I have done nothing to the car since I bought it except fix two exhaust leaks, sea foam the motor, cleaned the MAF and TB "months ago", replaced the passenger side up-stream o2 with the bosch C5 Vette o2, and changed the oil. It has LT's, ORY, and a cat back system. It even has the original airbox "as you can see".

Is this supposed to have 2 bolts holding it down...? Only reason I ask is because im 99.99999999% certain this is not seated correctly...I can hear air coming from that post and when I applied pressure to the top of it by hand I could hear less air when the motor was running.

**pajeff02** · 08-15-2013, 05:31 PM

Looks like the secondary air is capped off at the manifolds. Our car doesn't have the EGR setup, but I think 1 bolt is correct in that location.

**theorangeguy** · 08-15-2013, 06:09 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

Looks like the secondary air is capped off at the manifolds. Our car doesn't have the EGR setup, but I think 1 bolt is correct in that location.

Do I need that thing that has the one bolt in it....? If not, do you know if somebody makes a plate to cover/fill the hole on the intake and the one on the header?

**pajeff02** · 08-15-2013, 06:28 PM

As long as you don't care about emissions, the EGR system can be removed as well. They make block off plates for both areas.

**theorangeguy** · 08-15-2013, 08:17 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

As long as you don't care about emissions, the EGR system can be removed as well. They make block off plates for both areas.

It's already been tuned out anyway so it shouldn't make a difference PCM wise. Will it have any effect on the engine or the gases the engine releases?

**pajeff02** · 08-16-2013, 02:28 AM

Yeah. It'll run better.

**0rion** · 08-16-2013, 03:38 AM

you can use a 1 3/8" expandable freeze out plug for the intake.....couple bucks at any parts store. You can also trace out that base of the flange that mounts to your manifold and cut out a piece of metal and drill the 2 holes in it for the bolts to seal the manifold. Just buy a piece of gasket and cut your own gasket or use sensor safe RTV on it. The other option is to cut the egr tube there and crimp/weld it up. You said you had it tuned for no egr so you should be good to go. There's a timing adder table that needs zero'd out but your tuner should've done that when he deleted the codes and what not.

**theorangeguy** · 08-18-2013, 11:08 AM

the egr shaft that goes into the top of the intake is the problem...I unbolted it this morning and reseated the little gasket that is on the inside of it and the car was fine for about 1 minute and then it started hissing and leaking air again. I found the egr valve gasket for $1.63 @ autozone and im going to pick one up...hopefully that will do the trick for now until I can yank the entire system out.

Here's the info on the part in case anybody on here or anybody who google's this problem needs it...

Fel-Pro 70895 - EGR/Exhaust Air Supply Gasket | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Update:

I put the new gasket in and it sealed the leak...only issue I noticed while taking it for a test run, is that the engine sputtered once or twice under full load in 1st and 2nd gear. Since i've had a vacuum leak for at least a week now, does the PCM need to do some type of relearn since the airflow has been messed up?