Secondary Air: Diagnosing and Removal

**lsmaxxed** · 06-10-2011, 07:39 PM

ok i just did this mod and had it tuned out by frost. i removed the air fuse but not the relay. does the relay have to be removed? also my ses light came on after the tune and runs like crap had it scanned p0102 says vaccum leak. what line do you close off the one coming out of the sensor or just unplug the sensor and plug the hose that would go into the sensor?

**Cutlass** · 06-10-2011, 07:49 PM

You can leave the relay in. It would really matter much.
P0102 is a MAF sensor trouble code. Check that MAF out to make sure its properly installed and the screen is clean. Also, an over oil K@N air filter can gum up a MAF and cause problems.

**lsmaxxed** · 06-10-2011, 08:07 PM

i cleaned the maf with rubbing alcohol how do i know if the maf just went completely bad, also what do i do with these air vaccum lines... Anyone?

**pajeff02** · 06-11-2011, 04:56 AM

Plug the line off. I think I used an in line connector and a vacuum cap from the parts store. At the time, I was not sure where the line went to for the vacuum source and did not take the time to trace it.

**lsmaxxed** · 06-11-2011, 12:26 PM

plug the line that comes out of the sensor along the fuel rails?

**pajeff02** · 06-11-2011, 06:36 PM

Originally Posted by lsmaxxed

plug the line that comes out of the sensor along the fuel rails?

Look at the second pic in this thread. The secondary air vacuum feed is the line on top of the diverter valve.

**lsmaxxed** · 06-11-2011, 06:54 PM

yeah so the vaccum line that needs plugged is the one coming from the bottom of the sensor.
so to have it correct the vaccum line going into the sensor should be plugged in at top of sensor, and the vaccum line that needs to be blocked off is the one coming out of the bottom of the sensor, is this correct how you did it?

**Cutlass** · 06-12-2011, 09:57 AM

The line to plug is the one with vacuum at it with the engine running. That hose also goes to the back of the intake manifold.

**pajeff02** · 06-12-2011, 09:58 AM

The small unit with the electrical harness and two vacuum lines is the vacuum solenoid. Remove the entire thing and you will be left with the vacuum source line that drops over the back of the engine. Plug that however you can.

**lsmaxxed** · 06-12-2011, 06:18 PM

alright i unplugged the vaccum solenoid and left the sensor dangling and capped the line that went into the solenoid, after doing this i drove the car and it is very rough and stutters and ses light flashes, i am sure it has to do with a vaccum line somewhere i messed up, any suggestions of something i may have done wrong?

**35th-ANV-SS** · 06-12-2011, 06:22 PM

I am going to HIGHLY suggest that you keep all the same questions in the same thread you already have started. People will see it. Have multiple threads and asking the same questions in multiple places is making everyone's job harder that is trying to help you.

All of the info needs to be together.

**pajeff02** · 06-12-2011, 06:22 PM

Post a pic of what you did.

Did you cap the manifolds where the secondary air tubes were attached? Are you sure you plugged the source line? If not, uncap it and start the car -- you should feel it sucking at your finger when you hold it over the end. If it is not, then you capped the wrong line. A tune is required to delete the secondary air codes that will be set. Deleting the secondary air properly will have no impact on how your car runs.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 06-12-2011, 06:23 PM

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157210

Here is the other thread.

I will delete my post once everyone sees it as to not gunk up this thread.

**lsmaxxed** · 06-12-2011, 06:34 PM

yes it is the sucking line just checked. just lots of black coming out of exhaust and stuttering, any suggestions?

**pajeff02** · 06-13-2011, 04:10 AM

Black means excessive fuel. Your fueling is controlled primarily by how much air the MAF is telling the PCM is entering the car and feedback from your front O2 senders. If you did not properly seal the holes where the secondary air pipes attached to the exhaust manifolds, you could be pulling outside air into your exhaust and throwing off the O2 senders. This would cause the PCM to think that the engine is lean and it would add fuel, thereby making the car run rich. Likewise, any exhaust leak above the O2 senders can have the same effect.

**Pontiaco** · 09-01-2011, 06:46 PM

now the real question, would you make any more or less HP by removing it completely?????

**Cutlass** · 09-01-2011, 07:30 PM

No horsepower change. Removal just cleans up the engine bay and saves a little weight

**chris1974** · 03-09-2013, 05:13 PM

Awesome write up, Jeff. Very informative. Thanks for posting it!

**b.lee** · 05-03-2013, 07:56 AM

My new to me 00 SS is throwing the P0410 code
It's also throwing a P0141 code (Bank 1, 2nd o2 sensor behind the cat)

Do you think the P0141 code is a symptom of the P0410 code?

So I was messing with the AIR fuses and relay and my AIR pump started working next time I started the car.
So I disconnected the AIR hose that routes directly on top of the Drivers side inner fender,
Air was coming out of that hose from the AIR pump at a very good rate, BUT with my mouth I was NOT able to blow air into the line that connects on top of the Drivers side inner fender that heads over to the exhaust manifolds

Something obviously seems plugged.
So is it the check valves or ?

Whats the easiest way to check the check valves? or what do you recommend?

**pajeff02** · 05-06-2013, 07:00 PM

There is both a solenoid and diverter valve on top of the engine -- driver's side of the intake near the back. I never attempted to blow into the open hose so not sure what should happen. As posted in the thread intro, the system is only designed to operate for a short period of time upon cold startup. The usual culprit is a bad check valve, however, it could also be an electrical or vacuum issue as it appears the pump is operating correctly.

There is no likely connection between the cat code and the air code. The rear O2 senders simply tell the PCM if the converters are functioning properly and have no affect on fueling. Absent a visible problem, such as a broken or damaged wire harness or corroded connector, your easiest test is to swap the rear O2 senders side-to-side. If the problem follows the sensor then you know it is the issue. If the problem stays on that side, then it is either an actual converter efficiency issue, or a problem further up the wire harness.