Oh %*{#*= car won't start... Starter???

[5abivt]

anyone know how many watts it needs to be? no mention of it anywhee in sticky? Im guessing it can be mininal

[JayTA98]

ok guys im more confused now. I re-read the sticky and I was supposed to check the resistance from the connectors under the dash with the key in the ignition and not in the 'run' position. I tried that and still nothing.. BUT..

when I put the testers to the white/black stripe and white/purple stripe side of the connector.. I get a reading of -6.46 I get this with the key in OR out of the ignition. Still no reading of 9.49-9.53 on any wires though.

ok 5 abivt you doing good. it seems confusing but you can figure it out. If you are going to read the ohms at the plug I will disconnect the plug. If you leave the plug on you are going to read a different reading because of the additional electronics in teh VATS. Now remember that if the wires at the ignition switch are frayed or getting cut you might not get an accurate reading. You have to read the ohms of your key. Then go to radio shack or and electronic store and find a resistor that gets as close to that value. You might need a few resistors and put them in series (one end of one resistor to the next end of the other resistor)to get close the specific value. Then you put the resistors in the white plug that goes to the dash, the same one mentioned in the sticky. What the resistor does it simulates the values of the key. The VATS thinks that is reading the key chip and it disable the VATS so everything works normal.

The problem is that when the wire breaks or frays at the ignition key cylinder the computer is not reading the key chip value so VATS thinks is a fake key.

So start by getting the resistor and make connect them behind the plug like it is in the sticky.

[JayTA98]

anyone know how many watts it needs to be? no mention of it anywhee in sticky? Im guessing it can be mininal

I will grab a few different ones just in case they go bad but I havent heard of any issues with that.

[5abivt]

Ok sounds good. waiting for a ride so i can get to an electrical store that stocks billions of resistors. Im aiming for a gold band 9.5k resistor in 1/4 watt. that sound about right? In the meantime ill go try and test the plugs again.

I sure hope this is my problem like everyones in the sticky thread.

[JayTA98]

Ok sounds good. waiting for a ride so i can get to an electrical store that stocks billions of resistors. Im aiming for a gold band 9.5k resistor in 1/4 watt. that sound about right? In the meantime ill go try and test the plugs again.

I sure hope this is my problem like everyones in the sticky thread.

If the security light flashes you can't toubleshoot anything until you get the VATS either bypass(which is what you are trying to do) or fixing it. The VATS disables the fuel pump and starter relay. Now if you don't get the security light no more and it doesnt start then we need to chekc some more in the starter, ignition switch, starter relay.

[5abivt]

makes sense. ill make you guys a short video to show you what I see... brb in 2 mins

[5abivt]

ok i forgot that the iphone records sideways sorry... and yeah thats bird shit all over my car LOL.. gonna wash it while I wait for my ride!
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LonnFOtZM50[/ame]

[JayTA98]

ok i forgot that the iphone records sideways sorry... and yeah thats bird shit all over my car LOL.. gonna wash it while I wait for my ride!

Yeah that looks like is a VATS issue. i just went out to my car and disconnected the plug. Sure enough the security light flashes and the car don't crank. So to me it looks like your VATS is not reading the key value possibly due to a broke ignition cylinder wire. the resistor trick should make it crank. If it doesn't then your wiring to the BCM or the BCM itslef could be bad. Most of the time is the broken wire.

[5abivt]

FFs this store has a billion but 9.1 and 10k are all I can find

[JayTA98]

FFs this store has a billion but 9.1 and 10k are all I can find

how about if you get 2 that equal close to the value? Im not sure what values they have in resistors but like one 5k and a 4.5k? you can wire then in series and they add their value making it into a 9.5k resistor.

[5abivt]

I didn't look for a 4 and a 5 Dam (duh) think I had tunnel vision because we were looking at all the racks trying to add up what we could see..

I got:
4.7 1% so I have a pack (9.4)
9.1k 5% + 390r 5% so 9.49k

Got a soldering iron too since the last one I used was 15 years ago that I stole from school lol.

Does it matter which resistor is plugged where? I just solder them in series and plug it in either way?

[JayTA98]

I didn't look for a 4 and a 5 Dam (duh) think I had tunnel vision because we were looking at all the racks trying to add up what we could see..

I got:
4.7 1% so I have a pack (9.4)
9.1k 5% + 390r 5% so 9.49k

Got a soldering iron too since the last one I used was 15 years ago that I stole from school lol.

Does it matter which resistor is plugged where? I just solder them in series and plug it in either way?

yes there is no polarity. so either side is fine.

[5abivt]

Wohoooo fired right up!!!


thanks everyone!!

[JayTA98]

Wohoooo fired right up!!!


thanks everyone!!

Awesome. Glad you figure it out. See it wasn't that hard.

[5abivt]

Funny thing is pulled the resistors out so I can solder them in.. Car fired right up... O_o

[JayTA98]

Funny thing is pulled the resistors out so I can solder them in.. Car fired right up... O_o

Is the plug still connected?

[5abivt]

Nope... Odd indeed. I am putting the resistor on the white/black stripe and purple/white stripe right?

[Knight]

VATS tried to claim another victim, but we are smarter

Glad you got it going!

[JayTA98]

Nope... Odd indeed. I am putting the resistor on the white/black stripe and purple/white stripe right?

Correct. Weird unless it was residual fuel left in the fuel line. Did you let it run for a while or you shut it off right a way?

[5abivt]

I started and stopped it briefly as I was putting the connectors in to keep making sure they were making connection. The one thing that did happen was I was trying to crank and I pushed the key and the piece it goes into towards the column to shake it up and then it fired up.. So hopefully it isn't key related now. Stupid me didn't even try the spare key because last time this happened it didn't work.

Anyhow I chopped the plug an inch from the connector and soldered the resistors an taped them nicely. I turned the key and waited and the security light disappeared and then cranked and fired right up. I think I got it sorted for now

This site rocks honestly thanks for all the input!