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Thread: Front wheel bearing
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01-22-2010, 06:21 PM #1Apocolypse too
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- Oct 2009
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- Maryland
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Pewter- 99 trans am
Front wheel bearing
Pretty sure I need a new one, I know it's a sealed assembly hub blah etc, question is should I drop $180 on a new one or try to get one off a part-out.
Mines a '99, did anything change from year or would any off 98-02 fit.
Damn thing is noisy as ass
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01-22-2010, 06:24 PM #211 years of bangin gears
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Phantom Black Metallic- 2004 GTO M6
Play it safe and buy a new one. You'll be better off afterward.
EDIT: As far as I know, there weren't any changes between 98-02. I could be wrong though.
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01-23-2010, 03:44 AM #3Senior Member
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- Madison, WI
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1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold- 2001 Silverado Z71
New is better, but a used one would be ok also
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01-23-2010, 04:33 AM #4
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01-23-2010, 10:27 AM #5Apocolypse too
- Join Date
- Oct 2009
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- Maryland
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Pewter- 99 trans am
Finally got some time to take the wheel off, everything I yanked on didn't make a squeak but this looks like it could be the problem.

coming off the steering rack, technical name for that? Part #?
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01-23-2010, 10:32 AM #6
It's your outer tie rod. Could have dirt and grit inside the boot as it is torn, but it would only be noisy while in motion (turning the steering wheel) or over bumps if it is worn. Any play indicates wear. A wheel bearing will generally make noise while cornering in one direction. Do you need to know how to fix it?
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01-23-2010, 10:46 AM #7Apocolypse too
- Join Date
- Oct 2009
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- Maryland
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- 60
Pewter- 99 trans am
It's got a little play in it, seems like the cheaper thing to fix. Kind of ruling out bearing for now, as it's no other noise then an annoying squeak. Replacing it seems pretty straight forward. Just gotta find the # for a new 1, looking now for it.
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01-23-2010, 11:50 AM #8Senior Member
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- Madison, WI
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1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold- 2001 Silverado Z71
Replacing an outer tie rod is easy. Count how many revolutions it takes to unthread it from the inner tie rod and thread the new one on the same number (i.e. 20 revs off, thread the new one 20 revs back on). But you're not gonna wanna drive any further than 10 miles until you get an alignment. So replace it and drive directly to the nearest shop for and alignment.
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01-23-2010, 12:00 PM #9Apocolypse too
- Join Date
- Oct 2009
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- Maryland
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- 60
Pewter- 99 trans am
PB blaster you're my only friend.
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01-23-2010, 12:15 PM #10Senior Member
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- Apr 2008
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- Madison, WI
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1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold- 2001 Silverado Z71
^^^having troubles?
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01-23-2010, 12:31 PM #11Apocolypse too
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- Oct 2009
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- Maryland
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Pewter- 99 trans am
A bit lol. Think the problem was I wasn't drinkin a beer while workin on the bird.
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01-23-2010, 12:36 PM #12Senior Member
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- Madison, WI
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1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold- 2001 Silverado Z71
That's definitely a problem. Lets us know if you need any other help
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01-23-2010, 12:41 PM #13Senior Member
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- Madison, WI
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1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold- 2001 Silverado Z71
hell, I'll just offer it. Using a propane torch on the tie rod nut helps loosen up the plastic lock. Once you get that off, smacking the spindle right below the tie rod with a BFH helps dislodge the taper fit of the tie rod to spindle
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01-23-2010, 07:02 PM #14Apocolypse too
- Join Date
- Oct 2009
- Location
- Maryland
- Posts
- 60
Pewter- 99 trans am
3hr pb soak. 5 beers, 3 shots of Jack, can't get the fucker to budge. Gonna work on the whiskey tonight, tie rod tomorrow lol
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