New to ls1...few questions

**the_formula** · 04-07-2008, 05:59 PM

Hey everyone. I just bought a 2000 formula. I was curious about a few things that maybe someone could help with. First, the headlights. When i set the alarm with the factory key remote the headlights go up then down. Is this normal? I figured that it would just flash the park lights and fog lamps. The reason for this question is because everytime I kill the headlights the passenger side makes an annoying grinding noise for about 10 seconds after it shuts. Is that a relay issue or the headlight motor actin up?
Also i have a question about temperature. The car has 107,000 miles. Is the normal operating temperature for ls1 around 210 degrees? I saw a pic of a guy selling his 02 trans am. He had a pic of the instruments and his temp was reading around 210 as well.

**raysz28** · 04-07-2008, 06:06 PM

i dont know about your first question, i have a Z28. but the temp issue is normal. i know alot of friends cars run normal at around 210. i replaced my thermostat with a 160 degree, so for me the driving temp is around 165-170. if i am sitting at a red light or not moving fast it will move up to 210 also. i wouldnt worry too much about it.

**the_formula** · 04-07-2008, 06:14 PM

when you changed the thermostat, did you notice any increase in power>?? I was thinking of doing this as well...but then again im new to owning an ls1 so the temp was making me nervous...but im glad to hear its normal..

**74batmobile** · 04-08-2008, 09:38 AM

im having a similar problem. My 01 ws6 A4 at a light goes up to 260. it started happening yesterday. anyone have any ideas what it could be? IM thinkin the thermostat but could be wrong. any suggestions?

**98formy** · 04-08-2008, 09:50 AM

Originally Posted by 74batmobile

im having a similar problem. My 01 ws6 A4 at a light goes up to 260. it started happening yesterday. anyone have any ideas what it could be? IM thinkin the thermostat but could be wrong. any suggestions?

Your stat is probably stuck or sticky, I would replace it and see what happens.

**LGT Guru** · 04-08-2008, 09:52 AM

As for the head light, the gears that make them move are plastic, the gear is getting stripped. They sell metal replacements to make sure it doesnt happen again, but the factory used plastic. Cause they were cheap

**74batmobile** · 04-08-2008, 09:53 AM

ok i think this might be a noob mistake but i didnt know that the car had the Green anti freeze and yesterday i pick up some Dercex or something that the dude at pepboys recommended for the ls motor and 50/50 that stuff in there......now do i need to do a complete flush my friend says that shit will fuck up the cooling system.

**98formy** · 04-08-2008, 09:54 AM

Originally Posted by the_formula

Hey everyone. I just bought a 2000 formula. I was curious about a few things that maybe someone could help with. First, the headlights. When i set the alarm with the factory key remote the headlights go up then down. Is this normal? I figured that it would just flash the park lights and fog lamps. The reason for this question is because everytime I kill the headlights the passenger side makes an annoying grinding noise for about 10 seconds after it shuts. Is that a relay issue or the headlight motor actin up?

The grinding noise you hear is a bad gear on the motor, unfortunately its a common prob. I am not sure, but there is a brass replacement out there to replace the plastic one, dont get another plastic one. Secondly, it sounds like maybe someone wired up the alarm wrong. Mine, just the parking lights flash. You might get lucky with a wiring diagram and find the wire that controls the flash and rewire to the parking lights.

**Y2KArcticSS** · 04-08-2008, 09:56 AM

Originally Posted by 98formy

The grinding noise you hear is a bad gear on the motor, unfortunately its a common prob. I am not sure, but there is a brass replacement out there to replace the plastic one, dont get another plastic one. Secondly, it sounds like maybe someone wired up the alarm wrong. Mine, just the parking lights flash. You might get lucky with a wiring diagram and find the wire that controls the flash and rewire to the parking lights.

Green is baaad, orange is goood. Flush flush flush my friend. I screwed up my water pump seal by doing the same nooob mistake a few months back. The green stuff eats our shiznit.

**LGT Guru** · 04-08-2008, 09:57 AM

Yeah the head lights in my t/A never went up when i put the alarm on

**98formy** · 04-08-2008, 10:33 AM

Originally Posted by Mustang=Breakfast

Green is baaad, orange is goood. Flush flush flush my friend. I screwed up my water pump seal by doing the same nooob mistake a few months back. The green stuff eats our shiznit.

You have it backwards, green is good and orange is the bad stuff that tends to eat up stuff. Either way dont mix them, if you did, get it flushed and go to green.

**Y2KArcticSS** · 04-08-2008, 10:40 AM

Originally Posted by 98formy

You have it backwards, green is good and orange is the bad stuff that tends to eat up stuff. Either way dont mix them, if you did, get it flushed and go to green.

.......I was told by a GM Tech here in Tulsa the exact opposite when I got my water pump. Not calling you wrong, maybe calling him wrong...we'll see. I'm sure there is a thread that discusses such things.

**Y2KArcticSS** · 04-08-2008, 10:45 AM

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...ght=antifreeze

By orange, I am referring to Dexcool. Low silicate so that it does NOT eat your seals. Green is ok according to some on the link, but Dexcool is what's recommended for our cars.

**98formy** · 04-08-2008, 11:19 AM

I have been in automotive for a long time, GM in mine and other peoples opinion say to use it because its job security for them plus its more money and where do you think the dealerships make most of their money, and its not new or used cars. 75% of repair shops out there when doing system flushes if it has dexcool change it to green to avoid future hassles. A testiment to why people switch coolants are intake gaskets on 3100/3400 v6's and the 4.3/5.7 motors in trucks because of their poor design and the fact that dexcool can become acidic over time if left in there and exposed to air through leaks. By the way, my 98 LS1 came from the factory with green.

**Y2KArcticSS** · 04-08-2008, 11:30 AM

Originally Posted by 98formy

I have been in automotive for a long time, GM in mine and other peoples opinion say to use it because its job security for them plus its more money and where do you think the dealerships make most of their money, and its not new or used cars. 75% of repair shops out there when doing system flushes if it has dexcool change it to green to avoid future hassles. A testiment to why people switch coolants are intake gaskets on 3100/3400 v6's and the 4.3/5.7 motors in trucks because of their poor design and the fact that dexcool can become acidic over time if left in there and exposed to air through leaks. By the way, my 98 LS1 came from the factory with green.

I'm going by what people have actually experienced. The thread I've linked to gives testament to the green stuff corroding our aluminum blocks. It also talks about Dexcool corroding if you don't burp it correctly, but that's more human error than coolant problem. If you do use green, make sure it says Dexcool compatible, as a lot of antifreeze companies have made changes to formula to compensate.

**98formy** · 04-08-2008, 01:56 PM

Originally Posted by Mustang=Breakfast

I'm going by what people have actually experienced. The thread I've linked to gives testament to the green stuff corroding our aluminum blocks. It also talks about Dexcool corroding if you don't burp it correctly, but that's more human error than coolant problem. If you do use green, make sure it says Dexcool compatible, as a lot of antifreeze companies have made changes to formula to compensate.

This guy is looking for advise on what to do and I gave him what many of the reputable repair shops are currently doing with much success. My LS1 has had green in for 10 years before I flushed it out after doing my heads/cam. It was still green. good to -45 below with 65000 miles on it and inside the block and the water pump was absolutely clean. No signs of corrosion, electrolysis, or anything else that would be a concern of mine.

**Y2KArcticSS** · 04-08-2008, 02:01 PM

Originally Posted by 98formy

This guy is looking for advise on what to do and I gave him what many of the reputable repair shops are currently doing with much success. My LS1 has had green in for 10 years before I flushed it out after doing my heads/cam. It was still green. good to -45 below with 65000 miles on it and inside the block and the water pump was absolutely clean. No signs of corrosion, electrolysis, or anything else that would be a concern of mine.

This guy also lives in Texas, you live in Minnesota....reputable shops are going to be different based on region....dexcool doesn't break down as easily as the green goo in blistering temperatures, which I'm sure he has to endure every year.

**the_formula** · 04-08-2008, 03:21 PM

i better check my coolant as well.....but back to the headlight issue...lights go up and down just fine..but when the get to the closed position, the passenger side seems like its still trying to turn for like 10 seconds after it closes...

**SVG210** · 04-08-2008, 03:41 PM

Originally Posted by 98formy

You have it backwards, green is good and orange is the bad stuff that tends to eat up stuff. Either way dont mix them, if you did, get it flushed and go to green.

dude youre wrong antifreeze is not harmfull if you use it right, there are many types of antifriece most commonley used are Green, Red, Gold, gold is the best you can get for high temperature areas, and green is best for Colder-Freezing Areas.

**98formy** · 04-08-2008, 05:04 PM

Originally Posted by the_formula

i better check my coolant as well.....but back to the headlight issue...lights go up and down just fine..but when the get to the closed position, the passenger side seems like its still trying to turn for like 10 seconds after it closes...

Thats what our headlights sound like when the gear is stripped out. Get some metal ones, swap them out, and you will be good to go.