tune for stall converter

**silverz28camaro** · 10-12-2007, 10:48 AM

i just installed my 2800 fuddle converter and need to know what to tell or make sure my tuner knows during the tune

he aldready tuned it before and deleted torqu managment, but isn't there something else for proper lockup function.

the reason i ask is because the car is at 3,000rpm @ 60 mph, in od if i let off the gas it will go back down to idle until i crack the throttle again and it raises back to 3000 at 60 mph

**mrr23** · 10-14-2007, 04:11 PM

nothing needs to be done. lock up function should still be the same.

**Frost** · 10-14-2007, 09:20 PM

if the car has a cam, the misfire tables must be adjusted way down or tuned out .... the false misfires set at cruise will keep the converter unlocked when it should be locked.

**0rion** · 10-15-2007, 10:34 PM

your misfire tables need adjusted. Don't necessarily have to have a cam for them to keep the 'verter from locking up.

**Frost** · 10-16-2007, 08:07 AM

Originally Posted by 0rion

your misfire tables need adjusted. Don't necessarily have to have a cam for them to keep the 'verter from locking up.

You may be right, but after looking at a hundred or so, I've only had to adjust these tables on cammed cars before... every other car with misfire issues had real misfires. Log by cyl.

**0rion** · 10-16-2007, 08:23 AM

Originally Posted by Frost

You may be right, but after looking at a hundred or so, I've only had to adjust these tables on cammed cars before... every other car with misfire issues had real misfires. Log by cyl.

back when I had just a convertor I had sporadic problems with misfires unlocking my vertor. It would only do it every so often. I never even adjusted the misfire tables until after my cam because it wasn't really a problem until then but the verter itself was keeping it from locking up every now and then.

**Firebirdjones** · 10-16-2007, 05:39 PM

Would someone mind explaining exactly what you are adjusting to disable the misfire codes? I use Hptuners.

I would like this for future information to stash away, as a cam and converter are in the works soon. Thanks.

**mrr23** · 10-16-2007, 06:15 PM

go to engine diagnostics < misfire tab.

the number 32767 disables any reporting of misfires.

you can also disable via the temps settings.

**silverz28camaro** · 10-16-2007, 08:14 PM

what about the o-ring on the end of the input shaft, if that is missing or damaged will it keep from lock-up mod,

**mrr23** · 10-16-2007, 09:36 PM

it can

**Firebirdjones** · 10-17-2007, 07:07 AM

Originally Posted by mrr23

go to engine diagnostics < misfire tab.

the number 32767 disables any reporting of misfires.

you can also disable via the temps settings.

Thats it? And this keeps that car from going into limp mode? Shucks I thought it would be harder than that. Thanks again.

**edcmat-l1** · 10-17-2007, 01:51 PM

Originally Posted by mrr23

go to engine diagnostics < misfire tab.

the number 32767 disables any reporting of misfires.

you can also disable via the temps settings.

That will completely disable the misfire detection. I find it much more beneficial to scale the lower rpm zones by 10-20% until the TC function is back to normal. This way, if there is a misfire, such as a dead miss, you still have the detection enabled.
Setting the entire table to max, or 32767 is ok to find out if that is the cure for the converter not locking, but you are disabling a diagnostic feature, which IMO is never good, and should be avoided if at all possible.
Tuning is just that, tuning. Tweaking the control system to work with parts that were never intended to be on these vehicles. If we just disable every damn thing, we're dumbing down the computer, and defeating alot of the advantages of being computerized in the first place.
Just my .02

**Firebirdjones** · 10-17-2007, 05:17 PM

I would rather dumb down the computer as you put it. Most hotrodders like myself are pretty connected to their cars, and if there were a misfire or something not right, I have always picked it up right away, I can tell when I have a dead hole, it's pretty obvious to me,,,,I really don't need a computer to tell me. Thanks though, I appreciate the insight.

I think the car manufactures have taken away alot of the driving excitment with all this computer technology, making people very lazy. Pretty soon we won't even have to drive the car, they will drive themselves, thats a scary thought. Hopefully I will be dead and gone before that happens.

**Frost** · 10-17-2007, 07:00 PM

I hear ya, but you lose a powerful diagnostic tool if you disable them rather than trimming the tables down to suit. For example, you have a light miss off and on intermittently at idle that vanishes at part throttle. Log misfire by cyl and jump straight to the suspect plug/wire.

**rel3rd** · 10-18-2007, 02:50 PM

Originally Posted by Frost

if the car has a cam, the misfire tables must be adjusted way down or tuned out .... the false misfires set at cruise will keep the converter unlocked when it should be locked.

I'm waiting to get my car back to tuner after a recent cam swap.

I seem to have the exact issue that's being described here. The 3600 stall locked up like stock BEFORE the cam swap, so I can only assume the new cam is the culprit.

Not to hijack, but with the cam setting the random misfire code, like mine is doing, would that also make it not lock-up at higher rpm's as well?

At highway speeds, "sometimes" it will lock, and sometimes it won't...very sporadic.

As for tuning required for just a converter swap...even though my (pre-cammed) 3600 stall seemed to not affect lockup function, the car would hit the rev limiter on every WOT 2-3 shift after the converter swap. Never had that issue until the converter change...I waited to go back to tuner solely because I knew cam swap was coming right up shortly after converter swap, but it really needed "tweaking" from just the converter swap...

Now it REALLY needs tweaking, lol...

I have all the driveability issues...cam surge, sporadic converter lockup, involuntary cruise control where car holds at 1500 rpm's while driving, etc....lol

**edcmat-l1** · 10-18-2007, 02:57 PM

Originally Posted by rel3rd

I'm waiting to get my car back to tuner after a recent cam swap.

I seem to have the exact issue that's being described here. The 3600 stall locked up like stock BEFORE the cam swap, so I can only assume the new cam is the culprit.

Not to hijack, but with the cam setting the random misfire code, like mine is doing, would that also make it not lock-up at higher rpm's as well?

At highway speeds, "sometimes" it will lock, and sometimes it won't...very sporadic.

As for tuning required for just a converter swap...even though my (pre-cammed) 3600 stall seemed to not affect lockup function, the car would hit the rev limiter on every WOT 2-3 shift after the converter swap. Never had that issue until the converter change...I waited to go back to tuner solely because I knew cam swap was coming right up shortly after converter swap, but it really needed "tweaking" from just the converter swap...

Now it REALLY needs tweaking, lol...

I have all the driveability issues...cam surge, sporadic converter lockup, involuntary cruise control where car holds at 1500 rpm's while driving, etc....lol

All that can be tuned out, or just tuned. The shift points, the lock-up/misfire tables, etc. If you cant get it tuned correctly up there, look me or Frost up. We're both in Va. I have a bunch of customers up in NoVa. And a few in Md. They all feel like its worth the trip down here.

**rel3rd** · 10-18-2007, 03:07 PM

Originally Posted by edcmat-l1

All that can be tuned out, or just tuned. The shift points, the lock-up/misfire tables, etc. If you cant get it tuned correctly up there, look me or Frost up. We're both in Va. I have a bunch of customers up in NoVa. And a few in Md. They all feel like its worth the trip down here.

Thanks for the offer. I appreciate it. I have appointment with a local HPtuner equipped tuner (PSI), and since I have already had him dyno tune the car before both the converter and the cam swap, there's no charge for re-tunes (just have to pay $80/hour dyno time, if needed)...sometimes it's just a PITA getting in there to get it done...

The part that sucks is the recent past I was pretty successful tuning several (OBD1) NA, and supercharged Fords using a tuner called a PMS (Programmable Management System), and sometimes helping a few friends tune their EECtuner equipped cars...Being I've only owned an LS1 car for about 4 months now, The whole re-flashing thing has me slightly intimidated still with these cars, lol...

I'm about ready to buy the HPtuners software though so I'll be able to tweak some parameters myself when the need arises. With the knowledgeable help from you and others, I'm sure it's something I can do...just haven't attempted it yet.

**0rion** · 10-18-2007, 04:44 PM

you're doing it smart though by having psi set your base tune for you. I'm not that smart and like to do mine myself which has it's share of victories and defeats.

I have my car running halfway decent but I'm sure someone that knows what they're doing could find a hundred things wrong with the tune and find more power. I'm just hard headed that way. I like to learn it and do it myself.

**Firebirdjones** · 10-18-2007, 04:55 PM

I hear ya man,,,,I am learning Hptuners myself and it's a huge curve for a guy like me. You guys have helped greatly and I have made successful progress.

**Frost** · 10-18-2007, 09:26 PM

I don't think I've ever heard ANYTHING bad about Jeff (and his tuning) at PSI. He is a very nice guy on tech, and has done his share of mild to very wild setups.

...and buy HPT for yourself.