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04-29-2015, 11:52 AM #1
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white- 2001 pont trans am
Did full flush now engine overheating!!
Just did the full flush including removing the block bolts on both sides. I bled the system but there is something wrong. The engine begins to overheat and the coolant comes back through the fill hole. The thermostat is new and even tested it it works. Bled it a couple of times. The hose that goes from t-stat to radiator remains cool. Can anyone help? I am already going to miss work because of this.
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04-29-2015, 11:59 AM #2
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white- 2001 pont trans am
I forgot to mention after the car gets hot there is a thumping sound coming from the radiator
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04-29-2015, 12:11 PM #3
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
Sounds like you have air trapped in the system.
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Sounds like you have air trapped in the system.
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04-29-2015, 12:48 PM #4
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white- 2001 pont trans am
Upper hose gets hot, lower hose by t-stat remains cool. I tried squeezing the hoses but still nothing!
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04-29-2015, 01:16 PM #5
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
what temp is the t-stat?
Stock = takes about 195-200 to open.
165* T-stat = takes about 165-170 to open.
As long as you are not above 220 you will be fine, however if the bottom hose doesn't get warm within a few mins you need to shut off.
You could also do an old school trick with the t-stat. Take a small bit and drill a hole close to the inside edge of the t-stat that will allow coolant to still get by but not big enough to damage the t-stat.
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what temp is the t-stat?
Stock = takes about 195-200 to open.
165* T-stat = takes about 165-170 to open.
As long as you are not above 220 you will be fine, however if the bottom hose doesn't get warm within a few mins you need to shut off.
You could also do an old school trick with the t-stat. Take a small bit and drill a hole close to the inside edge of the t-stat that will allow coolant to still get by but not big enough to damage the t-stat.
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04-29-2015, 01:23 PM #6
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white- 2001 pont trans am
Its a stock t-stat I put it in boiling water and opened up. I hope I didn't damaged anything since I did let the engine run more than a couple of minutes.
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04-29-2015, 01:34 PM #7
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
do you know where the coolant cross over tube is on the front?
If so you can try to bleed some air out but loosening it enough to let the air escape but not enough that you can't tighten it again once coolant starts flowing.
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do you know where the coolant cross over tube is on the front?
If so you can try to bleed some air out but loosening it enough to let the air escape but not enough that you can't tighten it again once coolant starts flowing.
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04-29-2015, 01:37 PM #8
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white- 2001 pont trans am
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04-29-2015, 02:53 PM #9
Yup, SMW is right, trapped air. Cooling systems in these things stink, thermostat mounted too low, they are notorious for trapping air in the system when refilling. I always drill the thermostats just as SMW showed, but with only 1 hole on each side.
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04-29-2015, 03:40 PM #10
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white- 2001 pont trans am
I think I fixed it! I lifted the hell out of the front end. Bled the system by the TB, squeezed both upper/lower hoses like crazy. Turned on the car with rad cap off. I could hear air moving. I added coolant as needed, squeezed the hoses again. Once in a while I would pull off the hose by the TB. Reved the engine couple of times. It now shoots hot air and the needle barely made it to 210 mark after being on for 10 minutes. DO you guys think its fixed?
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04-29-2015, 03:42 PM #11
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white- 2001 pont trans am
The only thing I am concern is that the lower hose is warm, not hot like upper but just warm, is this ok?
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04-29-2015, 04:46 PM #12
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
Did full flush now engine overheating!!
yes....that IIRC cool side going in.
And I should have said just one holehttp://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/
6.0L Block - Forged 403ci, Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Viking Coilovers, YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.93 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.
00 FB Vert - "Stockish" Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), C7 Snowflake 17" Wheels
78 FB - Just getting started......
Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!
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04-30-2015, 05:19 AM #13
Sounds like you figure it out, great job. For future reference anytime you drain the radiator or system get in the habit of either removing the TB hose like you did or the front coolant bypass hose. With the car off, start to slowly refill the radiator and keep an eye on the disconnected hose. When you see coolant coming out of the tube/hose then you are good. Put the hose back and top off the radiator. Take the car for a short ride and once it is cold again check the level as it could drop a little more. Top it off again. Check the coolant level in the morning for the next couple of days until the level doesn't drop.
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