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Thread: Engine light codes?
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04-20-2015, 12:51 PM #1
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- Mar 2015
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- michigan
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- 4
Engine light codes?
Can someone explain these top me in English.I'm not a mechanic.
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04-20-2015, 01:00 PM #2
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- Feb 2009
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
The Air pump was an attempt by GM to reduce emissions. Air is needed to finish the combustion in the cat, so it adds the needed air into the exhause manifold.
Since no internal combustion engine is 100% efficient, there will always be some unburned fuel in the exhaust. This increases hydrocarbon emissions. To eliminate this source of emissions an air injection system was created. Combustion requires fuel, oxygen and heat. Without any one of the three, combustion cannot occur. Inside the exhaust manifold there is sufficient heat to support combustion, if we introduce some oxygen than any unburned fuel will ignite. This combustion will not produce any power, but it will reduce excessive hydrocarbon emissions. Unlike in the combustion chamber, this combustion is uncontrolled, so if the fuel content of the exhaust is excessive, explosions, that sound like popping, will occur. There are times when under normal conditions, such as deceleration, when the fuel content is excessive. Under these conditions we would want to shut off the air injection system. This is accomplished through the use of a diverter valve, which instead of shutting the air pump off, diverts the air away from the exhaust manifold. Since all of this is done after the combustion process is complete, this is one emission control that has no effect on engine performance. The only maintenance that is required is a careful inspection of the air pump drive belt. (but our camaros dont have a belt driven pump, its electric, so instead of diverting the air when its not needed, they just shut off the pump).
Most of the time these codes are either the air pump has died, fuse is blown or the check valve is stuck. BEST COURSE of Action. Pull the fuse, remove the air pump and have a mail order tuner like Frost tune it out. Removal of the EGR system will also be best. This is usally all done with long tube headers are installed.
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04-21-2015, 03:05 AM #3
Here is some good reading on the secondary air system (with lots of pics) and how to diagnose and fix it yourself: http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/seconda...emoval-130641/
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04-21-2015, 03:25 AM #4
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- Mar 2015
- Location
- michigan
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Awesome thanks for the info!
Last night I opened the fuse box to see what the fuss looked like.I never pulled it out.I got in it to go to the autoparts store and the light was off.
It has not can back on yet.
I never replaced s anything.
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04-21-2015, 03:44 AM #5
my money is the relay is bad
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04-21-2015, 06:33 AM #6
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
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- 11,808
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
I favor the removal and tune out as the fix....
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04-22-2015, 05:07 AM #7
if it went away it is most likely the check valve getting stuck intermittent. I had that issue many times when I had my AIR pump. You find out which one is it but it will eventually happen again. If you don't have emission testing then I will suggest the removal and mail in tune up from frost like the other members said. That's what I did.
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04-22-2015, 06:37 AM #8
a check valve will typically be a 1415 or 1416 code.......
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04-22-2015, 06:41 AM #91998 TA 130k A4, LS6 intake, TunedByFrost, Airlid, AIR and EGR delete, Borla exhaust, front Eibach lowering springs, LS6 valley cover, UMI TQ arm, UMI LCA's, UMI panhard bar, Poly engine mounts, BMR relocation brackets, Blistein HD shocks and struts, Oil catch can, Autotrix window fix.
Now I have an 2001 F150 5.4L
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04-24-2015, 03:42 PM #10
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- Mar 2015
- Location
- michigan
- Posts
- 4
Yep.come back on today.
Changed relay and the fuse is good but it's still on
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04-24-2015, 09:31 PM #11
the light won't clear until the test runs and passes unless you clear the code with a scan tool.
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