fuel system setup, for abody swap.

**tomcamaro97** · 05-16-2014, 10:37 AM

So kinda new to the forum, and working on my first swap. An ls1 in a 71 Chevelle. I'm bout to drop the engine in. Getting the fuel system together and hoping someone can chime in, got the vette regulator /filter. And an inline pump. 2 questions. , first, the stock regulator on the fuel rail, do I. Just leave it there or what, no return line at the engine. Second, can I use stock tank still, if it doesn't have enough spots for the return line couldn't I just add a hole on the sending unit? I don't wanna have to buy a new tank if can be avoided.

**pajeff02** · 05-16-2014, 02:23 PM

Welcome to the site!

That is a pulse damper on the fuel rail and should be left in place. The regulator on our cars is in the fuel tank and is part of the bucket assembly. In retrofits, some have installed a return in the fuel filler pipe. That may not be an option though if you have an A-body that has the license plate access. There are companies that make pump assemblies that will drop into original style tanks but they are probably a bit pricey. I believe these may have a hookup for a return line.

**Firebirdjones** · 05-16-2014, 03:26 PM

A 71 chevelle will have a return line built into the sending unit. All GM cars 50 state wide had it by 1971 because the cars came equipped with the charcoal cannister system.

What I would recommend however is to forget the inline pump and go with the drop in tank unit. I've run inline pumps in retro swaps, and they'll only last 10-15,000 miles before they dump on you. They operate hot, not only heating the fuel which isn't a good thing, but the hot pump eventually eats itself. Not to mention you'll have to listen to it all the time.

Easiest way to do an intank pump without buying a new tank is the stealth system from Aeromotive. Very slick, pump is contained in it's own foam bucket, comes with supply and return fittings. Just simply cut the hole and screw it together. Works in any gas tank setup. I eventually went this route on my last retro swap and never looked back. Nice quiet operation and the pump is kept cool for long life, it should now last 100k miles without a problem. There's a reason why the manufactures put the pumps in the tank

**Firebirdjones** · 05-21-2014, 05:04 AM

Another piece of advice, I know you have it already, and everyone seems to want to use it and I don't know why, but that vette filter/regulator combo is a pricey little piece for something you should be changing every 20,000 miles or once a year minimum. Around here that setup is $100, and I didn't want to drop $100 every year on a fuel filter change. What a racket that is.

So what I did is contact Howell Engine Development who makes all my harnesses. They have a nice little inline regulator preset to 58 psi that is extremely simply to put anywhere in the fuel supply line, and it's cheap. From there I run a simple F-body fuel filter, again placed anywhere in the supply line that's convenient. I can then change the filter regularly for ~$8 and not mess with that whole filter/regulator setup from the vettes.

I do these swaps thinking long term and what I can do to make it dependable and make the maintanance easier in the long run. The whole reason for these retro swaps is because we want to drive and enjoy them more....right?

**tomcamaro97** · 05-22-2014, 08:49 AM

Thanks all.. appreciate all the good info.. I'm gonna stick with the inline route for now since i already ordered it and its cheap But when it goes ill switch over to intank. A lot of expenses right now. I only paid like. 35 for the regulator, didn't seem to pricey, but yeah I like your idea to use a std one. When i switch to intank ill prob dobthat too. In wi I only get to drive 6 mo a yr and having other cars, 15k will prob take me 5-6 years.