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06-23-2008, 10:25 AM #1
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2005 Ram SRT-10 QC 8.3l- 1999 FRC Black
Throttle body heat bypass?? Help!
O.K., so I did this mod years ago on my own without help having done this to my earlier L98 and LT1, but as I read the INSTALL UNIVERSITY's directions the other day after many years I am stumped. What I did was block all four entries/exits off with caps. 2 at the throttle body, 1 at the radiator, 1 at the tube connecting the heads. I have never had problems as far as I know? I need to know if this is O.K. or should I find hose, and connect the radiator back to this tube between heads? Please help!!
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06-23-2008, 10:53 AM #2
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- Mar 2007
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83 Z28 new project- 98 Formula WS7-sold:(
You need to restore the hose from the radiator to the pipe that goes to the heads. The bypass is only for the TB. I just used a barbed connector and some extra hose for the one side.
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06-23-2008, 11:19 AM #3
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Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
^^^ Yup.
You make the line skip the throttle body, and go from the head to the radiator.
Not skip that line all together.
So a total of 2 caps, both on the throttle body.
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06-23-2008, 12:26 PM #4
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2005 Ram SRT-10 QC 8.3l- 1999 FRC Black
Question is am I hurting anything like it is since it has been this way for so long without adverse effects? May not be the recommended way but I don't see and haven't seen problems? It's much cleaner not having that hose traverse across to the radiator.
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06-23-2008, 12:36 PM #5
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2005 Ram SRT-10 QC 8.3l- 1999 FRC Black
Anyone else have an opinion?
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06-23-2008, 02:50 PM #6
I don't think you hurt anything, but hopefully someone that knows more about this will come in and tell us more about it And if it doesn't hur anything then I will cap mine becasue it cleans up the engine compartment.
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06-23-2008, 02:57 PM #7
Just a by-pass tube that was added to get warm water to the TB to warm the incoming air. You don't need any of it. Your good as is.
2002 Sunset Orange TransAm 6 spd.
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1327/dadsigpic2.jpg
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06-23-2008, 03:16 PM #8
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06-23-2008, 04:57 PM #9
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- Denton, Texas soon Lafayette, Louisiana
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Blue- 2002 Z28 Camaro M6
I would imagine it is because the kits are stupid enough when you are just paying for some clamps and a barbed fitting. Imagine most would really feel ripped off it it was just four blocks. I can see there might be a problem of the preassure from the line breaking open whatever you are using to plug the line as well.
I don't think it will hurt anything. In fact it might even be better The coolant still goes in the same manner as it normally would, most older cars don't even have something like this. The benefit that I could see for removing the line is that you keep the fluid all moving through the main lines and not letting it get side tracked by the small tube.
Pretty much all I can do is take educated guesses and speculate.
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06-23-2008, 05:02 PM #10
I'll do some speculating too.....
Isn't it possible that this also serves as the coolant bypass when the thermostat is closed????
All engines have this in some form,,,and I'm not sure where the LSx motors have them,,,,but some type of coolant bypass needs to be somewhere until the engine warms and thermostat opens.
Some engines have this built into the water pump itself....not sure on the LSx motors where it's at,,,but a coolant bypass is important if you still run a thermostat.
Here's another idea,,,,,would blocking the line completely deadhead the coolant up top and possibly cause air pockets and hot spots????? Just thinking outloud here....
Either way,,,I prefer to run the coolant line,,,,not hurting anything,,,,just removing it from the throttle body is the main goal here for me.
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06-24-2008, 03:28 AM #11
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06-24-2008, 05:17 AM #12
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2005 Ram SRT-10 QC 8.3l- 1999 FRC Black
Well that's what I'm thinkin after reading the Install University deal although they provide no explanations. My temperature barely fluctuates, usually is right around 195 on the gauge and 197 on Autotap whether doen the highway, sitting in 100 degree weather in traffic, or racing down the track. All my friends that have LS1's or even LT1's their temps are on par with mine?
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06-24-2008, 06:27 AM #13
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- Mar 2007
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NBM- 1998Z28
The one mod I never did. I don't think there are and real world gains other than cleaning up the engine bay.
TSP 347 SB, TSP Stage 2.5 PRC LS6, TSP MS4, Performabuilt Stage 2 4L60E, Yank PT4000, 4.11s, Fast 90/90, FTRA Cold air intake+all the free mods, Dynatech Supermaxx Exaust System, DMH Cutouts, Hooker Catback/FTRA Tips. Tuned by RPM/Garner NC. 11.28@119
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06-24-2008, 07:57 AM #14
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2005 Ram SRT-10 QC 8.3l- 1999 FRC Black
There are noticable gains, at least 5 h.p. or so. It does heat the throttle body up quite a bit. Feel the T.B. on a hot engine, then bypass and feel the throttle body. Do this while the engine is running and you can feel the difference. Now heat soak after sitting a while is a different story.
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06-24-2008, 01:41 PM #15
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2005 Ram SRT-10 QC 8.3l- 1999 FRC Black
bump
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06-24-2008, 05:41 PM #16
Any time you can cool the intake charge you make more power. Thats old news... It may not be something you feel seat of the pants per say...but worthwhile none the less...I believe the general rule is every 10 degrees of ambient temp drop is worth 1% increase in HP..
Running 200 degrees worth of coolant through the intake track does nothing for HP... As that air passes through it heats up,,,much like the way a radiator works..
That heated air goes right into the intake,,,,kills power....
Same reason many people years ago would block off the heat cross over passage under the intake manifolds of the older school stuff. Same idea. Hence the reason many intake companies make air gap intakes now. And to take that a step further,,,it's also the reason many high performance aftermarket heads don't even come with heat cross overs anymore....Last edited by Firebirdjones; 06-24-2008 at 05:47 PM.
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06-24-2008, 06:26 PM #17
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06-25-2008, 03:39 AM #18
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06-25-2008, 05:37 AM #19
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