Well I'm making the switch........to Mobil 1

[Mr. Luos]

Someone tell me who sells the Aunt Jemimas at the best price???






Still on the cheap AutoZone dino oil for the new motor. Probably be on that crap until the motor sees a proper break in. After that....Havoline dino.
Then Mobil 1....then an expensive synthetic.

[ocshaman]

Motorcraft 10-30 in the summer, and 5-30 in the winter in the 3.8. If I get a L_1, I will see what kind of UOA's are turning up at BITOG.

As far as Amsoil. I think it would be a great oil for extended oil changes. But even Havoline dino has ran 13K in a 5.3 with room to spare. For a bypass user, with highway driving, go for it, but I think that dumping Amsoil at anything less than 10K is a waste of money, unless your car has problems, and at that point you shouldn't be running something that expensive, you should be using you money to fix it and dumping in Trop Artic or Chevron from the last sale.

[Sarge]

Amen Brother...Amen....Synthetics ARE NOT the cure all end all for everybody....

[ocshaman]

for everybody....

Wanted to reiterate this.

If you are a I want the best for my car, that doesn't mean dumping whatever next big thing is plugged. It means popping some used oil in a tube, sending it for testing and cutting open the filter. It's very possible that the best thing for your car is a Supertech filter and a good dino changed at reasonable intervals. If your vehicle is a "trip" or "commuter" vehicle, and the easy miles pour on constantly, you should see what dino can do for you, then see if running a syn with some good filter and longer changes can be better both financially and wear wise. For all the I'm gonna keep it until it rust, that don't live in an area where this means 8 years, you can also slap on a bypass filter, change it at recommended intervals, and do UOA's to see how far you can go.

Just because Mr. I run 8's at 300 mph(exageration) runs XXX oil, doesn't mean that your cam and exhaust DD LX1 can benefit from the same oil. This also means that Mr. 60 year old mechanic that says Pennzoil causes sludge and Mobil blows stuff up, isn't right either. Back then Detergent oils were coming in, and yes, Mobil was having problems with it's Sythetic, but that doesn't affect the fact now that Mobil is factory fill in many cars, or that it might or might not be right for you.

Stepping down off the now. Time for bed.

[BBATCAR]

mobil 5w-30 syn

[gashoe]

I run Mobile 1 SYN 5-30 in my 2k Tahoe, 5-40 in a deisel VW, and 15-40 in my 5.7 Mercruiser, until last oil change this fall. I tried Royal Purple's verion for the boat, doing a before and after oil change run. I gained 200 prm at WOT, and about 3mph, on the gps. This is significant in a 22' 3600 lb. boat. Based on this one incident, I'd have to say the Royal Purple does reduce some internal friction over my old favorite, Mobile I. Now just so you know, my old oil only had 25 hours on it, so it was still in very good shape, so it wasn't like it was totally wasted. I'm still not giving up my Mobile 1 just yet, but I'll try the RP in the boat again this Spring, and see what happens then

[SSPORT]

Used RedLine on my first LS1-- nothing better IMHO, but when I got a new warranty engine, I started using Mobil 1 5W30, and am perfectly happy with it. The price difference is significant, about $3 a quart, not counting shipping costs. If I were to go 15,000 miles or one year between oil changes, whichever comes firsts (which is what RedLine recommends, after warranty period has expired, of course), I'd go back to RedLine, but since I change mine every every 5 to 6,000 miles, the Mobil One is OK for that interval. Plus, I have to top it up every 1,000 miles or less ("Low Oil" warning light), so it's continually being freshened with new oil.

[ocshaman]

So you burn/lose enough oil to set off your low oil light every 1000 miles? On a warrantied engine? And you have'nt thought that this is strange? How many qts do you add every 1000 miles?

[00BlueTA]

Just curious, since amsoil marketing is enough to convince you of there product being so superior. . . do you run fram filters?

Yet another company that markets great but, we should all know better. Im not saying amsoil is bad but maybe over priced is a good way to put it.

-00BlueTA

[bww3588]

whats wrong with fram filters?

[Mr. Luos]

whats wrong with fram filters?

They have been known to fall apart.

I stick with Delco filters.

[ocshaman]

whats wrong with fram filters?

You can buy better for much less.

[gashoe]

hey gang, what do you think of the Purolator "Pure One" oil filters? I've always used them with good results. They seem to have an excellent filtration number, and if I'm not mistaken, they invented the oil filter, and have kept pace with increased engine technology. Just curious about any of your experiences.

[Sarge]

Purolator is an excellent filter...Fram back in the day was made by Champion Labs and was a very good quality filter.....now they are made by Johhny Chungs Malaysian Filter Company and are glued together POS....and the price has gone up...go figure....but the name Fram still carries weight cuz that is the filter "Dad" used on all of our cars....not the same filter guys.....

[gashoe]

Thanks, Sarge. I remember my granddad telling me of old tractor filters that were essentially a roll of toilet paper in a cannister! He said it worked quite well, and that's probably where I first heard of Purolator filters. I run them on my 2000 Tahoe (the 'Pure One', not the TP rolls!), my 2001 5.7 Mercruiser, and get this, on my 14 year-old 16 hp Briggs & Stratton riding mower! I've always run synthetic in that little engine, and it's never leaked or smoked oil. I've also never had to adjust the valves, and the oil stays fairly clean between changes. Same with the boat and the 2000 'hoe. (131,000 miles). I guess that the oil/filter combo must be doing it's job!:

[Sarge]

Sure sounds like it!

[BADBLUE02]

I ran Mobil 1 5w 30 in my 2000 Firehawk for 50,000 or so miles and just started it in my 02 WS6 with 5500. No problems so far.

[ocshaman]

Thanks, Sarge. I remember my granddad telling me of old tractor filters that were essentially a roll of toilet paper in a cannister! He said it worked quite well, and that's probably where I first heard of Purolator filters. I run them on my 2000 Tahoe (the 'Pure One', not the TP rolls!), my 2001 5.7 Mercruiser, and get this, on my 14 year-old 16 hp Briggs & Stratton riding mower! I've always run synthetic in that little engine, and it's never leaked or smoked oil. I've also never had to adjust the valves, and the oil stays fairly clean between changes. Same with the boat and the 2000 'hoe. (131,000 miles). I guess that the oil/filter combo must be doing it's job!:

You are talking about Motorguard or Frantz bypass filters. They are still being made, and I have a Motorguard sitting in America for whatever toy I get when I get back to the states.