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Thread: subframe connectors
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11-09-2006, 10:18 PM #21
I have UMI Performance bolt-in tubular SFCs, rear lower control arms, and their non-adjustable Panhard rod bar. Up front I have a Hotchkis strut tower brace. The difference in handling, feel, and "tightness" of the car after these mods is AMAZING! The car doesn't creak and rattle any more on bumpy roads, when you hit a bump or pothole the whole car doesn't shake, just the one wheel reacts to the road imperfection. The whole car feels more structurally sound (as it should)! GM should have built the car with the extra reinforcements right from the factory! (But we know why the cheap cost-cutting a**es didn't.) BTW, replace your sway bar bushings and end links with polyurethane parts from Energy Suspension. (Forgive me Ed for naming names...) UMI will powder coat your components in custom colors for a small additional charge.
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11-10-2006, 07:39 PM #22
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11-15-2006, 01:06 PM #23
GP on subframe connectors
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33711
Whether or not you decide to join the GP I'd highly recommend weld-in subframes. Better safe than sorry.
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11-24-2006, 07:08 PM #24IM DROPPIN THE HAMMER!
- Join Date
- Nov 2005
- Location
- California
- Age
- 43
- Posts
- 48
SILVER GT + RED WS6- 1990 5.0 GT + 2000 WS6
If you get the bolt-in SFC's are all the holes already there? How much better are the weld-in type?
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11-25-2006, 10:55 AM #25whsGuest
Most people claim that the weld in connectors are better, the bolt in connectors use existing holes in the factory subframes and rear control arm brackets. They come with the backing plates and bolts.
I recently purchased a set of SLP's weld in subframe connectors. They aren't powdercoated like the bolt in connecters, but they have the holes in them like the bolt in connecters. They line up with holes in the subframes and would bolt in just fine.
The last time my car was in the body shop their opinion was that bolt in connectors were okay, and recommended against welding on the subframes. Everyone is probably going to have a different opinion on this.
I asked about using one of those heavy duty epoxies and bolting them in, however I don't know if anyone has done this. My thoughts would be if the glue didn't hold up very well they would be bolted in and could always be welded later.
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11-26-2006, 06:40 AM #26
I agree with whs. I've worked at a bodyshop and dragraced for over five years with boltins and had no problems at all. The drag car was a 10 second camaro.
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11-29-2006, 06:50 AM #27
I have an '02 firehawk and just installed sfc's on it. The difference in the ride and handleing is noticeably better. It only took about an hour to install them. I got the UMI two point bolt on's; they're cheaper than 3-points and that's all you need unless you are installing a tunnel mounted torque arm. If you're keeping your car stock, I suggest the UMI 2-points--they also tuck under your car better.
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12-19-2006, 01:03 AM #28
Are the 3pt that much better than the 2 pt? I know they connect the front to the rear but does it make lateral integrity greater?
Does it ast like a "space-frame" with the additional support or is it just over kill?
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12-19-2006, 08:54 AM #29
The 3-point does add a little more rigidity than the 2-point, but the 3-point can also become a problem when installing a better exhaust system.
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12-19-2006, 10:05 AM #30Consumer of kraut
- Join Date
- Dec 2006
- Location
- Jenks/Tulsa
- Posts
- 4,798
Light Pewter Metallic- y2k 8-cylinder catfish
SFCs are a must if you want to stiffen up your frame good. I plan to go with BMR boxed and have them welded on.

2000 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 A4 - Light Pewter Metallic
Direct Flo lid, SLP Loudmouth, Bassani Offroad Y-Pipe, BMR strut tower brace, BMR subframe connectors, shift points tune and !EGR
2011 Kia Forte EX A6 Sportmatic - Titanium Silver Metallic
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12-19-2006, 10:05 PM #31
Ive seen pictures of a car with the 3pt SFC and they look pretty sweet. THe Exhaust was of course heavly modified. It look like a set of Hooker long tubes going into some monster sized freaking under car piping. Not sure if that would be very good to have when going across speed humps(i mean humps not bumbs) going in and out of Army Installations. They always have em.
If i can figure it out, ill put a pic on
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12-19-2006, 10:14 PM #32
Here we go, its by UMI. Is this a good start for looking into SFC?
Right now, having any is better than not having any, huh?
I like how you can bearly see it from the side, nice and tucked in
Attachment 8659
I like the set up on this car, Really clean
Attachment 8660
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12-21-2006, 07:52 PM #33
Josh,
2 points don't do as much for the twisting during hard cornering as the 3 point. Yes, I know that was a very opionionated comment. But that is what my experiances are. I've used both and I prefer the 3 point. Most people that have never done the side by side compairison will not notice any difference between the two. I have SLP's 3 point on my WS6 and have no complaints. My friend has the same ones on his 02 SS also. His has headers and removed cats, and he has no issues with contact anywhere. On t-top cars there is no roof for rigitity or any x-bracing in the floor like the drop tops have to prvent any twisting. Which created the dimples on my quarter panels. Which is what the 3 points will add to your car.
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12-22-2006, 07:16 AM #34
Cool, Well, i was pretty much going to go with the 3pt, but wasnt sure at the time. Its alittle more $$ but From what it sounds like, in the end, its worth it. And It would be a good investment since i will be AutoX and hopfully roadracing again when i come home from Korea. THANK GOD!!
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12-23-2006, 10:08 PM #35
I just ordered some bolt-on SLP SFC's. can't wait to see how they'll do. my car creaks every time I go up a driveway.
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12-25-2006, 07:11 PM #36
You'll like them. That's what I'm using, SLP boltons.
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12-26-2006, 05:55 AM #37
Ok i ve decided that I do want SFC (duh) and STS turbo system. Now the only problem is that, the intake pipe goes were the sfc is. Is there anyway or getting around this other than getting somthing else?
I like the STS system and I want the 3pt SFC setup this car has.
sts system note the intake
Attachment 8775
SFC by UMI note the main support bar where the intake would go
Attachment 8776
Any way of working the intake around this?
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12-26-2006, 10:15 AM #38
that's a sweet turbo set up right there. but there doesn't look like there's any room. hmmm. quite the dilemma.
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12-26-2006, 03:13 PM #39
This subject has been greatly debated before. STS claims that the intake acts somewhat like a 2 point SFC (which I suggest is a big crock). They tell you to use the passenger's side only and you will be happy.
There was also another forum member who claimed to have modified his 3 point SLP unit to bypass the intake, but used the rest of the SFC. Unfortunately, he never posted any pics. IIRC, this was on ls1tech.
I was lucky, my LT1 intake goes up the middle of the car, so 2 point SFCs were not an issue.
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12-26-2006, 11:31 PM #40
I installed my SLP 3 points today with my brother. it was quite a hassle. the holes that connect to the cross brace were off a little and we had to grind a little on the car to get the back flange to sit flat on the car. it said it should take 2 hours for a professional to do it, but it took us 4 hours. ehhh. we had to use a wrasp to make the bolt hole bigger so the bolt could go in straight for the cross brace.
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