Yet another problem.. Knock sensor

**Smittro** · 01-02-2012, 02:49 PM

Where did the washer come out of? If it came out of the body of the knock sensor where the female end sticks out that could be bad.

What did you use to tighten it? The sensor seems to have taken some damage.

Looks like from a slipped wrench?

**Smittro** · 01-02-2012, 02:51 PM

Oh and nice location for a sensor huh?

You should see where it's @ on an X code W-body..

You can see it plain as day from under the car, but there's no way in green earth you can get to it without removing the down pipe and working in a space the size of a grape fruit..lol..

**flybird** · 01-02-2012, 02:58 PM

It came out where you see the nut part, it seems to hold the white connector in place and not nove around.

Yeah, it was an extremly time consuming job. And yes I had a wrench, 7/8. And a cresent wrench, it had slipped a few times bc I coukd not get it on properly due to the tight spacing.

I put 93 octane gas, bc I read that low grade/ bad gas can cause a knock sensor code. Im not sure if its true but I will be finding out tomorrow.

**Smittro** · 01-02-2012, 03:10 PM

Originally Posted by flybird

It came out where you see the nut part, it seems to hold the white connector in place and not nove around.

Yeah, it was an extremly time consuming job. And yes I had a wrench, 7/8. And a cresent wrench, it had slipped a few times bc I coukd not get it on properly due to the tight spacing.

I put 93 octane gas, bc I read that low grade/ bad gas can cause a knock sensor code. Im not sure if its true but I will be finding out tomorrow.

The 3800 is designed to run on 87 as well as higher octane. I ran mine for 2 years (first 2 years owned) strait on 87 without issue.

Later,, I changed up to 93 for ( an additional 4 years) the durration of owning it..

Results where the same with only a sight change in mpg's.. Very slight..

Second I hate to say it but if the female end in the sensor can just easily flop about you may get to do it all over again.

A cresent wrench prolly was'nt the best choice in tools for this sort of job.. I understand if that's all you had tho..

With that said, is it still codeing?

**Smittro** · 01-02-2012, 03:20 PM

If this is that washer, "Houston we have a problem"..

**flybird** · 01-02-2012, 03:58 PM

Yeah its that washer... Why Is this a problem

**flybird** · 01-02-2012, 04:14 PM

Can I push this washer back in? I really dont want to spend another 50$ at autozone..

**flybird** · 01-03-2012, 08:02 AM

A mechanic had told me that the knock sensors work in pairs.. Is this true? He said the reason y the code isnt goin away is bc they work jn pairs

**Knight** · 01-03-2012, 08:50 AM

I may be wrong, but I wouldn't expect it to identify the problem as bank 2 if that were the case. I know on the LS blocks it's recommended to replace both, but usually because of location. Smittro would probably know though.

**Smittro** · 01-03-2012, 09:58 AM

I don't know what they're talking about when your mechanic says, "pairs". There's only 2 sensors, one right bank, and one left bank sensor.

The code is'nt going away because the sensor is damaged.

Each sensor creates it's own fault codes many people have replaced them one @ a time with as expected (normal) results.

Unfortunately, you likely damaged the sensor inside, so you'll need lto get another one and try not to He-Man it..

First have the code cleared and see if it immediately returns. If it does then you know whats ahead of you.

**Smittro** · 01-03-2012, 10:45 AM

Because of it's location shown above in this RWD 3800 pic, behind the motor mount is why I suggested removing the AC pump and setting it aside without disconnecting it..

This can give a little more room around the motor mount and crossmember to work.

If you're doing this on jack stands it's gonna be tough no matter what.

In realistic terms a shop with a lift is a must here or some way to get the car higher safely.

The alternative to removing the AC pump is raising and supporting the engine (safely) enough to remove the (black bracket) motor mount so you can install a sensor without damaging it. This is with the most basic tool route (open end wrench and cresent wrenches).

A ratcheting wrench (in the 21- 22mm range) of the exact size may also help here..

A shop with a lift will have more specialized tools to simply reach up and change it without hassle.

**My00Z28** · 01-05-2012, 08:49 AM

Originally Posted by flybird

Attachment 23540

just an fyi you do not need to put sealer or lock tight on the KS, that is what the red coating is for on the threads

**flybird** · 01-05-2012, 09:09 AM

Really?i put it on pretty tight. Could tht throw a code?

**flybird** · 01-09-2012, 06:45 PM

Its all fixed. Took it to a mech.. Fuel regulator was bad, spark plugs fouled out due to regulator, and the actual knock sensor connector was broken. So I wasted buying a knock sensor basically.. But ty for all yalls help guys.

**Knight** · 01-09-2012, 06:47 PM

Glad you got it resolved!

**Smittro** · 01-10-2012, 04:36 AM

Originally Posted by flybird

Its all fixed. Took it to a mech.. Fuel regulator was bad, spark plugs fouled out due to regulator, and the actual knock sensor connector was broken. So I wasted buying a knock sensor basically.. But ty for all yalls help guys.

Like I've said before (in your other thread) knock sensors on these rarely go bad, but who knew the wire was messed up

Well least you're up and running again..

For all the codes these cars can throw, you'd think they would have added a code for the fuel presure reg.. sigh...

Glad you're modile again..