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Thread: Auto body guys please help.
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08-29-2007, 10:46 AM #1
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Blackety Black- 35th Anniversary SS
Auto body guys please help.
I painted my nose peice and front fender on sunday but got blotches in the base coat. I resprayed it and the base coat turned out great but I then got one large sag and two tiny runs on the nose piece in the clear coat. I just bought a tool called a nib file from the auto body supply shop and i am going to attempt to file down the runs. My question(s) are has anyone ever used this type of file? If so what was your outcome? And do you have any tips that could help me avoid problems? They paint is only two days old, I would say that the run is 1/16 of an inch thick, if i take off the top of the run, do you think inside the run the paint will still be liquid or soft? Once i have filed down pretty far should i then wet sand or finish it another way? I know that was a lot of rapid fire questions any help would be greatly appreciated.
-Mike
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08-29-2007, 12:32 PM #2
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Blackety Black- 35th Anniversary SS
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08-31-2007, 04:56 AM #3
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Blackety Black- 35th Anniversary SS
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09-01-2007, 11:12 AM #4
The nib file works pretty good. Just remember it will take it down very fast. So keep an eye on how much you have removed. Also don't go until it's completely flush since you will still want to sand it with some 1500 and then 2000 grit wet sand paper to smooth things out before buffing. I use to do that the next morning. After two days your paint will be fairly solid and fine.
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09-01-2007, 03:34 PM #5
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Navy Blue Metallic- 2002 Z28
Well I would skip the file.....never heard of it. The best thing you could do now is get some 1000 grit and a soft sanding block, and sand those runs out. Take lots of time doing it though. Chances are that you will end up burning through your clear coat a bit, and if you do, thats a whole nother can o worms, but can be touched up with some spot panel clear in a can. Anyways, after the 1000 grit, work up to 1500, then 2000. Finish off with a buffer, and you shouldnt be able to even tell they were ever there.
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09-01-2007, 07:01 PM #6
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green- 94 z28
To be honest, I'd just go with some very fine sandpaper and a block that would fit the contour of the area being painted and wet sand it. Never used the file, but it sounds rough and the only time rough and paint should be used together is when....you're taking the paint down to repair or re-finish the part.
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09-02-2007, 08:06 AM #7
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Blackety Black- 35th Anniversary SS
I want to start with the file because the runs are big enough to take em down. If i start off with the sand paper i will be taking down the clear coat that is surrounding it and burn the paint job as you said. I tried the file breifly last night and it seems like it will work. I am going to wait a little more until the paint hardens a little more. Thanks for all the responses i appreciate your help.
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09-02-2007, 08:22 AM #8
You need a sanding block and start with 1000 that will knock it down quick. The file has a bad rep for tearing fresh paint! Just use as mention above with a lot of dish soap and water.
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09-03-2007, 07:35 AM #9
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09-03-2007, 08:29 AM #10
I would stay away from the file. I don't like the file, it leaves scratches in the clear coat. Take a razor blade and tape up each end, so that only the center of the blade is exposed. Very gently scrape the run with the exposed part of the blade. The blade will knock down the majority of the run, but not all. You will burn through the clear if you try. Next , use 2000 grit sand paper on a block with soapy water. Sand the run gently. You will not get it perfect, doing these steps will only make it look a lot better. Depending on how picky you are, you might have to re-paint it. Let me know how you make out.
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09-03-2007, 01:18 PM #11
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09-04-2007, 07:23 PM #12
I used the razor blade trick sometimes also. The results were always good.
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09-07-2007, 08:18 PM #13
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09-12-2007, 05:52 PM #14
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white- 2000ss
the razer blade always works good...blade it sand it real quick with some fine paper and buff it quick and ull be good
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