DIY - Oil Pressure Sensor Replacement/Relocation

**Camaroconway** · 02-17-2013, 05:19 PM

Gunny, thanks for that tip. My original plan for the relocation kit was to use it on my 99 Z28. I purchased the relocation kit and asked that they (DPE) put the F-Body OPSU on the kit which they did, but I did not measure the hose. Since life and the Army has a way of not allowing me to work on my projects I have decided not to use it on the 99, and will save it for my 67 when I put a LS in it. I can probably find a spot in the firewall.

**ssgunny** · 02-17-2013, 06:36 PM

Originally Posted by Camaroconway

Gunny, thanks for that tip. My original plan for the relocation kit was to use it on my 99 Z28. I purchased the relocation kit and asked that they (DPE) put the F-Body OPSU on the kit which they did, but I did not measure the hose. Since life and the Army has a way of not allowing me to work on my projects I have decided not to use it on the 99, and will save it for my 67 when I put a LS in it. I can probably find a spot in the firewall.

That was nice of them I guess I should of asked them to provide a new fbody OPS since I sent the one for a vette back when requesting a longer hose. I am sure they will make any modifications to the device (within reason) if need be for your application. They were pretty cool when I talked to them on the phone about the change I needed. If you are going to install it on an LS motor in a '67 I would not sweat it. Mounting it next to the first coil pack like the vette's is all you will have to do like in this thread. Mounting it on the firewall and being able to clearly view the gauge may present a problem but am sure you will figure it out. Good luck!

**ssgunny** · 02-25-2013, 06:04 PM

As I mentioned earlier about a possible grounding issue concerning installing this unit on a fbody that is exactly what I experienced. My gauge and OPS are mounted on one of the driver's side coil packs. I corrected the grounding issue by using the post on top of the drivers side head's steam vent tube to strap to the coil bracket mounting bolt. This dropped the resistance from 14.4 (which is what I was getting between the head and valve cover and the head and the OPS) to .06. Now the oil pressure on the dash reads 60 (vise maxed out when not grounded) like it did when the OPS was mounted on the engine block. Comparing the mechanical gauge reading of 39 means the OPS is reading about 21 units higher and is probably on its way to failing.

**Junkman2008** · 02-26-2013, 06:44 AM

Those sensors fail so damn often. That's why I relocated mine. Oddly enough, it hasn't failed since I installed a cheap, Auto Zone brand sensor. Imagine that. Going on two years and no issues.

**sparcnz** · 12-27-2013, 11:39 PM

I came to this page from a Google search.
I have read through the information, but for some reason I cannot get any of the photos to show.
Joined up thinking this might be the problem, but still no photos. Does anyone have a copy?
I have a 2002 Corvette and the oil pressure is reading the highest reading. I have been told I need to replace it.
I have searched here in NZ, they are available, but at nearly NZ$200.00 I am looking States side.
Can someone advise the part number and maybe the best source? I have been told to get the brass made type, and to avoid "Auto-Zone".
Wait for any replies.

Cheers Kevin.

**Junkman2008** · 12-28-2013, 12:36 AM

You're in luck Kevin. Here's the link to the writeup along with the pictures. Since you can't go back later and edit your threads on this forum, I cannot fix the picture issue in this thread. I'm surprised that Google didn't send you to LS1Tech or Digital Corvettes, the latter of which is where I post all of my C5 writeup's (and I have a bunch of them).

As for the sensor, I can tell you for a fact that not only is yours bad, but the sensor DOES NOT cost $200! The most expensive one that I have bought was $45 and that came from the dealer. Out of all the sensors that I have replaced, the one that has never failed and is still running strong was the one I bought from AUTO ZONE. That's right, a BorgWarner sensor from Auto Zone that cost a whopping $23. So that BS you read about not getting one from Auto Zone is that, BS. I'm using real-life experience, not something I read by someone who has never done this repair multiple times on quite a few cars. That's exactly what I have in mine and it's been working strong for almost 3 years.

My last 3 came from the dealer and one of those lasted about a month. Never again. I highly recommend that you do the relocate so that if yours fails again, it's a 15-minute fix. I did the relocate the first time I ever did this repair and you can bet that I was a happy camper when that first one failed again, shortly after doing this repair.

The Junkman

**sparcnz** · 12-28-2013, 11:41 AM

Thank you Junkman,

No Google did not show those pages, but following your information I went to DigitalCorvettes.
I started reading through the post and got to the 2nd entry, going well, then the photos started not to show. However reading through everything I have a very goo idea on what is required.
I read further removing it without removing the intake manifold, I will try that first and see how I get on.
I think with the report on failure rates I might do the relocation kit, but I think I might be able to make my own kit with spare braided line and fittings left over form a previous project. The question would be, will this be fine? I think I would have to source the kit from the US if I wanted one.

As for the price I mentioned for the sender in my post, this is what I was being charged at our local auto store in New Zealand (not the USA), so I will try a US auto store on-line. Might need the part number if I am going to order this way.

Regards Kevin.

**sparcnz** · 12-29-2013, 12:08 PM

Thanks Junkman, the new link was great, but sorry to report that when I got to the second posting I started loosing the pictures again. However I read all the information and believe I can do this fix myself. I will look at the relocation mod as well, I have some spare fittings from a previous project. This is braided hose and fittings, will just have to get the fittings for the block and the other end for the sender, this should be fine.

Junkman, as for my comment on the $200.00 price for the sender, this is what they have quoted me from one of the local auto shops (like Auto Zone), I am based in New Zealand, so I will be looking at sourcing one (maybe two) from the US. Price or unit plus postage I think I should be able to get down here for about 1/3 of the price.

Just out of interest, does the connector and wiring reach the position of where the sender will be relocated to easily, or is there some refitting needed?

Regards Kevin.

**Junkman2008** · 01-04-2014, 06:02 PM

All the pictures are there. There are a TON of pictures and your Internet connection may have timed out while loading them all. Try refreshing your browser a few times. You can also use this link. Maybe it will load faster for you. Once all the pictures load, everything will make sense, including the answers to the questions you have. If you still have any questions, just let me know.

As for the EOP sensor, you could have someone buy it for you in the USA for about $23, and then ship it to you through USPS one rate shipping for $23.50. That's a LOT cheaper than what you were quoted.