UMI parts

**2000dreambird** · 03-04-2012, 09:31 PM

so im starting to look into a bunch of UMI parts i.e SFC, TA-relocator, LCA relocators.. and so on. my question is should i got bolt on or weld on, and why?

**98maro** · 03-04-2012, 10:13 PM

the only parts you can get weld in, is the subframe connectors, and relocation brackets,
i have bolt on relo brackets, and weld sub frame connectors.. the reason to weld em is to make it stronger, if you plan on take the parts off in the future, get bolt on, if you dont, weld em in, its worth it in my opinion,,

**bouigha123** · 03-05-2012, 08:08 AM

I chose bolt on parts, that way if I ever sold the car I could take them off and sell them to make a bit of extra cash. Also my car is pretty much stock, and low milage so I wanted to be able to remove them and have the car look exactly the same as the day the car left the factory. Either way the parts will make a big difference.

***SMWS6TA*** · 03-05-2012, 05:31 PM

^^
Very good reasons

also OP when looking between Box and O tubing, the stronger one is the box style.

**KMdef9** · 03-05-2012, 05:42 PM

You can always weld in the bolt ins.

**pajeff02** · 03-05-2012, 05:47 PM

^^ This. I also purchased UMI bolt in SFC's for that very same reason. They look great, work perfectly, and the install was quick and easy.

**Redrokit8** · 03-05-2012, 06:42 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

^^ This. I also purchased UMI bolt in SFC's for that very same reason. They look great, work perfectly, and the install was quick and easy.

I took the same advice from Jeff when deciding which way to go on the SFC's. For my purposes it wouldn't be of any benefit to weld them in. I merely wanted to beef up the underneath for touring. You can see by my signature I'm a UMI guy. This past weekend I finished installing SLP tuned Bilsteins and Strano springs. All told, the car is transformed 100% from stock and feels and handles terrific.

**2000dreambird** · 03-05-2012, 07:51 PM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

^^
Very good reasons

also OP when looking between Box and O tubing, the stronger one is the box style.

So you would recommend the box style over the 3 point tube style?

**2000dreambird** · 03-05-2012, 07:57 PM

also guys thanks for the input, i think i might go bolt on because if for some reason i get rid of the car( which is highly unlikely) i would want to take the stuff off. or maybe one day upgrade to moly or another design

**KMdef9** · 03-06-2012, 07:52 AM

IMO the 3 point is the best. Especially when matched with a new tunnel brace or torque arm relocation kit. It will tie the front to the back and side to side.

***SMWS6TA*** · 03-06-2012, 10:22 AM

Originally Posted by 2000dreambird

So you would recommend the box style over the 3 point tube style?

Kevin replied best for me.

Originally Posted by KMdef9

IMO the 3 point is the best. Especially when matched with a new tunnel brace or torque arm relocation kit. It will tie the front to the back and side to side.

Box style will always be better when using same type material. there was a thread a while ago that it was explained the how's and why's. Engineer stuff.

**KMdef9** · 03-06-2012, 02:41 PM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Kevin replied best for me.

Box style will always be better when using same type material. there was a thread a while ago that it was explained the how's and why's. Engineer stuff.

I recall that thread as well. It has to do with the corners of the box style, which are stronger than the round part of the the umi 3 point. I think it only discussed just box style being stronger than round style, so I'm not sure if I would say 2point box is stronger than 3 point round. Especially if you upgraded the tunnel brace and welded it all together, virtually connecting the driverside front to passenger rear through a web of metal. I would see that as the strongest setup (chrome moly if you must), but that isn't needed for everyone and depends on yours goals too. If you only plan on mild to moderate engine modification and not drag only, then the 2 point box would be fine. I also am not sure where the weight addition will catch up with you because 3 point with a tunnel brace weighs probably twice as much.

3 point umi bolt in is the most popular sfc on this site.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 03-07-2012, 09:49 AM

It was me that did the calculation

**2000dreambird** · 03-07-2012, 05:57 PM

Originally Posted by KMdef9

I recall that thread as well. It has to do with the corners of the box style, which are stronger than the round part of the the umi 3 point. I think it only discussed just box style being stronger than round style, so I'm not sure if I would say 2point box is stronger than 3 point round. Especially if you upgraded the tunnel brace and welded it all together, virtually connecting the driverside front to passenger rear through a web of metal. I would see that as the strongest setup (chrome moly if you must), but that isn't needed for everyone and depends on yours goals too. If you only plan on mild to moderate engine modification and not drag only, then the 2 point box would be fine. I also am not sure where the weight addition will catch up with you because 3 point with a tunnel brace weighs probably twice as much.

3 point umi bolt in is the most popular sfc on this site.

I am already pushing past 500HP, I haven't hit the 1/4 track yet but i will here and there.(after a new rear)
it is more of a bad ass DD.