High stall torque conv what is the diff.

[Durango]

My buddy says he bought a 97 Camaro and his car only takes of at 2200rpm I wanted to get a Yank 32000 but now I'm not sure Som people ay it doesn't make diffrence on daily driving but this guy wants to tke it out Is there diffrent ones that don;t do this

Is that what a lock up torque is???? Or is it how it works

[pajeff02]

A high stall converter will have definitely an impact on your car. It will launch better at the track, it will adversely affect your mileage, and it will result in additional heat being generated as it slips more than your stock converter. This necessitates the installation of an auxilliary transmission cooler. I am upgrading ours over the winter and will most likely try a 3,200 from Performabuilt.

[666ws6]

I put a 3500 Super Yank in years ago, and frankly, I think the driveability is totally fine. After a few years now I can't notice much of a difference between the TA and my daily driver. It certainly wakens up the automatic, so I'd say it's a must if you love to drive and race!

[nhraformula]

I have a 3000 stall and if i didnt tell you the car was stalled, you never would know it, its that tame. As for MPG, i maybe lost 2 or so.
Most worthwhile mod that can be done for an automatic LS1
A yank 3200 will be perfectly streetable

[Durango]

I have a 3000 stall and if i didnt tell you the car was stalled, you never would know it, its that tame. As for MPG, i maybe lost 2 or so.
Most worthwhile mod that can be done for an automatic LS1
A yank 3200 will be perfectly streetable

Well I use to drink like a fish now I don't so th money is bettre spent in mod lol I will try a TC for sure and I think long tubeheaders already have cat back how is the BBK headers ok?

Thanks again what TC would b recommeded?????? price versus quality

[Firebirdjones]

There are many to choose from, alot of which have a pretty good reputation.

There are vigilante's from Precision Industries, Yank, Circle D, Coan, just to name a couple of the more popular brands.
Price depends on options like, anti balloon plates, STR ratings, the size or type of lockup clutch used, etc....

Call and price around and see what different places recommend. Most like to spec one for your application per weight of the vehicle, camshaft, gears, etc...and you'll find that different places recommend different stall ratings for the same combination. This has alot to do with how they build the converter and how it acts.

For instance when I was shopping, Vigilante recommended one of their 3200 stalls for my combo with a higher 2.4 STR, while Fuddle recommended their 3400 with a lower 2.1 STR. I can't remember what others recommended but I called a few.
If you wind up somewhere in the neighborhood of 3200+ I think you'll be happy, and it's enough to knock 1/2 second off your ET's alone, even on a stock vehicle.

[nhraformula]

Well I use to drink like a fish now I don't so th money is bettre spent in mod lol I will try a TC for sure and I think long tubeheaders already have cat back how is the BBK headers ok?

Thanks again what TC would b recommeded?????? price versus quality

Shorty headers are a waste of money
Headers comes down to what your willing to spend. I have coated pacesetter long tube headers and a off road y-pipe.
For converters i suggest,
http://www.converter.cc/converters/street/GM/1/
YANK SUPER STOCK 3200 LS1
245mm, 3200 stall, 2.1 STR) The Yank Super Street 3200 is for enthusiasts running stock 3.15 gears, but want more "thrust" off the line. It bridges the gap between the Stealth 3000 and will hit the tires harder for excellent throttle response.

You will also need a trans cooler, shift kit and get it tuned.
While Yank is a little more expensive than most others, its top notch.
You will easily cut half a second in the 1/4 with above converter and you will no longer have the famous dead spots that automatic ls1 cars have.

[Durango]

Shorty headers are a waste of money
Headers comes down to what your willing to spend. I have coated pacesetter long tube headers and a off road y-pipe.
For converters i suggest,
http://www.converter.cc/converters/street/GM/1/
YANK SUPER STOCK 3200 LS1
245mm, 3200 stall, 2.1 STR) The Yank Super Street 3200 is for enthusiasts running stock 3.15 gears, but want more "thrust" off the line. It bridges the gap between the Stealth 3000 and will hit the tires harder for excellent throttle response.

You will also need a trans cooler, shift kit and get it tuned.
While Yank is a little more expensive than most others, its top notch.
You will easily cut half a second in the 1/4 with above converter and you will no longer have the famous dead spots that automatic ls1 cars have.

I'm looking for better response as you say and I would rather do the TC well and no headers for the tim being than do both 1/2 way so for parts alone this winter is $1500-2000 maybe a little ore Decided to hold of I think on the hood unless I sell my 99 TA then all heck will break loose lol
So that said would the stealth 3000 be enough I'm not looking for incredible launch I go to the track 2 or 3 times a year this is mainly when I get out of an exit at 30mph and hit it I like the hard pull up to 75-80mph and the launch at the track is great 2 but mainly looking for that seat of the pants pull
Should I look at gears first for tha or still TC f look at gears I have 2:73 in the nw and 3:23 in the old so should I go 3:42 or 3:73's is there like 3:55 in between ?????Ahhh questions questions :-)

Thanks again for helping me It' so hard to figure what to do so someone that did it makes it easier to make a descision I haveth mod bug big time

[nhraformula]

I'm looking for better response as you say and I would rather do the TC well and no headers for the tim being than do both 1/2 way so for parts alone this winter is $1500-2000 maybe a little ore Decided to hold of I think on the hood unless I sell my 99 TA then all heck will break loose lol
So that said would the stealth 3000 be enough I'm not looking for incredible launch I go to the track 2 or 3 times a year this is mainly when I get out of an exit at 30mph and hit it I like the hard pull up to 75-80mph and the launch at the track is great 2 but mainly looking for that seat of the pants pull
Should I look at gears first for tha or still TC f look at gears I have 2:73 in the nw and 3:23 in the old so should I go 3:42 or 3:73's is there like 3:55 in between ?????Ahhh questions questions :-)

Thanks again for helping me It' so hard to figure what to do so someone that did it makes it easier to make a descision I haveth mod bug big time

Actually keep the 2.73s.
I have a tci 3000 street fighter stall,
http://www.lmperformance.com/4171/27.html
I just like 99% of the guys out there who got stalled wish i would of went bigger. Looking back i should of got between 3200-3500.
Reason why i suggested the 3200 yank stall to you because with the 2.73 gear you have, its not gonna hit super hard off the line, yet hard enough to put a smile on your face. A beautiful thing is when you in the dead zone at around 37mph and gun it, with a stall the car pulls like a raped ape. Another reason is if somewhere down the line you should decide to get a cam, that stall will work with alot of grinds.

[Durango]

Actually keep the 2.73s.
I have a tci 3000 street fighter stall,
http://www.lmperformance.com/4171/27.html
I just like 99% of the guys out there who got stalled wish i would of went bigger. Looking back i should of got between 3200-3500.
Reason why i suggested the 3200 yank stall to you because with the 2.73 gear you have, its not gonna hit super hard off the line, yet hard enough to put a smile on your face. A beautiful thing is when you in the dead zone at around 37mph and gun it, with a stall the car pulls like a raped ape. Another reason is if somewhere down the line you should decide to get a cam, that stall will work with alot of grinds.

Right on I will order a Yank for sure shift kit and trans cooler

[Intrepidman]

I hear everywhere that a torque converter in the 3200 range will take about half a second off the quarter mile time of a relatively stock LS1 f-body.

BUT I really don't understand how - I hear two explanations

1) It will let you hit the tires harder off the line > I run decent 315 street tires and can already decimate them leaving the line ... I actually have to be fairly careful to hook up, rather than burn out.

2) A converter will basically slip the rpms up to its stall speed so that I make more power when I'm in the beginning of a gear (like right after the 1-2 or 2-3 shifts) thereby eliminating the "dead spot" that everyone talks about in our cars.
But how does that work? .. Having a 3.23 rear end, and shifting at 6200rpm I hit 2nd gear already reving just over 3300rpm and I hit 3rd gear reving just over 3800rpm. (at least according the my calculations)
Am I doing the math wrong on those gear ratios / engine speeds ... or will the a 3200stall converter still slip higher than that # and really give me more available power at the beginning of 2nd and 3rd, despite the rpms that I am already turning.

If I didn't already spin off the line and/or I hit 2nd and 3rd at lower rpms; then I could see exactly how a converter would benefit our cars, but currently, with the explainations I've heard, I'm stumped.

[pajeff02]

By way of example: At the track, if I roll into the throttle off the line our car will run just over a 13.0 second quarter mile. In contrast, if I hold the engine at around 1,500 - 1,600 rpm at the line and release the brake, I can run a 12.8. This is about as high as I can go as I have the stock torque converter which stalls around 1,800 rpm.

A higher stall converter will allow the engine to be held at a higher rpm before launching and will put the car into the power band that much quicker. The caveat is that you have to have the appropriate suspension and tires to take advantage of this.

[Durango]

By way of example: At the track, if I roll into the throttle off the line our car will run just over a 13.0 second quarter mile. In contrast, if I hold the engine at around 1,500 - 1,600 rpm at the line and release the brake, I can run a 12.8. This is about as high as I can go as I have the stock torque converter which stalls around 1,800 rpm.

A higher stall converter will allow the engine to be held at a higher rpm before launching and will put the car into the power band that much quicker. The caveat is that you have to have the appropriate suspension and tires to take advantage of this.

What needs to be done to enjoy the stall when it comes to suspension? SFC is to stop the car from twisting from what I hear and will the stall keep your RPM's up when you are running down the track????? Plus if I'm at 60mph and go full throttle will my car launch more than a stocker????

[Durango]

I hear everywhere that a torque converter in the 3200 range will take about half a second off the quarter mile time of a relatively stock LS1 f-body.

BUT I really don't understand how - I hear two explanations

1) It will let you hit the tires harder off the line > I run decent 315 street tires and can already decimate them leaving the line ... I actually have to be fairly careful to hook up, rather than burn out.

2) A converter will basically slip the rpms up to its stall speed so that I make more power when I'm in the beginning of a gear (like right after the 1-2 or 2-3 shifts) thereby eliminating the "dead spot" that everyone talks about in our cars.
But how does that work? .. Having a 3.23 rear end, and shifting at 6200rpm I hit 2nd gear already reving just over 3300rpm and I hit 3rd gear reving just over 3800rpm. (at least according the my calculations)
Am I doing the math wrong on those gear ratios / engine speeds ... or will the a 3200stall converter still slip higher than that # and really give me more available power at the beginning of 2nd and 3rd, despite the rpms that I am already turning.

If I didn't already spin off the line and/or I hit 2nd and 3rd at lower rpms; then I could see exactly how a converter would benefit our cars, but currently, with the explainations I've heard, I'm stumped.

How the heck did u put on 315's without hitting the suspension stop or fender???? 315's I have a buddy in Sussex that has 315's on his ride 2!!!
:-)

[pajeff02]

What needs to be done to enjoy the stall when it comes to suspension? SFC is to stop the car from twisting from what I hear and will the stall keep your RPM's up when you are running down the track????? Plus if I'm at 60mph and go full throttle will my car launch more than a stocker????

You want to avoid wheel hop -- so upgraded lower control arms and a panhard bar are both good first steps. After that, a torque arm and possibly LCA relocation brackets. Just depends on how far you want to go with it.

[nhraformula]

A higher stall converter will allow the engine to be held at a higher rpm before launching and will put the car into the power band that much quicker. The caveat is that you have to have the appropriate suspension and tires to take advantage of this.

I have to disagree with you as i have a stock suspension. While the car doesnt have the best traction on the street, a good burnout at the track along with my BFG drag radials and i hook very well.

[Durango]

I have to disagree with you as i have a stock suspension. While the car doesnt have the best traction on the street, a good burnout at the track along with my BFG drag radials and i hook very well.

Gotta love this site great info for free well almost the mods cost a lot of money lol

[67CamaroRSSS]

There are many to choose from, alot of which have a pretty good reputation.

There are vigilante's from Precision Industries, Yank, Circle D, Coan, just to name a couple of the more popular brands.
Price depends on options like, anti balloon plates, STR ratings, the size or type of lockup clutch used, etc....

Call and price around and see what different places recommend. Most like to spec one for your application per weight of the vehicle, camshaft, gears, etc...and you'll find that different places recommend different stall ratings for the same combination. This has alot to do with how they build the converter and how it acts.

For instance when I was shopping, Vigilante recommended one of their 3200 stalls for my combo with a higher 2.4 STR, while Fuddle recommended their 3400 with a lower 2.1 STR. I can't remember what others recommended but I called a few.
If you wind up somewhere in the neighborhood of 3200+ I think you'll be happy, and it's enough to knock 1/2 second off your ET's alone, even on a stock vehicle.

That's what I went with.

Unfortunately Fuddle is now kaput.

[Firebirdjones]

That's what I went with.

Unfortunately Fuddle is now kaput.

Ya, their customer service lacked, but the converter still works nicely, been a few years now. I've actually been waiting for the transmission to chunk so I can go through the whole thing and try a different converter, but it just keeps on ticking

[JoshuaGrooms83]

well looks like a converter is in my future too lol. just been wondering whats good for me. looks like ill be looking into either a 3200 or a 3400. id like it to hit hard with out eating too much of my DD car