UD Pulley Install Tips

**Vertiviper** · 05-03-2010, 09:22 AM

I will be installing an UD pulley in the coming week or so. What are some good tips that could save me some potential headaches?

Thanks!

**shady milkman** · 05-03-2010, 11:14 AM

Originally Posted by Vertiviper

I will be installing an UD pulley in the coming week or so. What are some good tips that could save me some potential headaches?

Thanks!

get a pulley bolt puller..or rent it if you can.

**Vertiviper** · 05-03-2010, 11:30 AM

Originally Posted by shady milkman

get a pulley bolt puller..or rent it if you can.

Yup, already have my hands on one. My biggest concern is tq'ing the new pulley in place. They reccomend 250 ft-lbs (!) to get it seated correctly, then remove the bolt and retorque to a much lower spec. I don't have a tq wrench that goes that high...if I used a breaker bar with an extension (pole) and turned until the new pulley lined up, is that up to par u think?

**shady milkman** · 05-03-2010, 11:43 AM

Originally Posted by Vertiviper

Yup, already have my hands on one. My biggest concern is tq'ing the new pulley in place. They reccomend 250 ft-lbs (!) to get it seated correctly, then remove the bolt and retorque to a much lower spec. I don't have a tq wrench that goes that high...if I used a breaker bar with an extension (pole) and turned until the new pulley lined up, is that up to par u think?

yeah you could ...remember that a breaker bar multiplies the total amount of torque based on its length...so for a 2 foot breaker bar you would only need to exert 125 lbs of force to that 2' breaker bar to exert 250 ft-lbs...so yeah you should be fine.

**Y2KPewterSS** · 05-03-2010, 03:26 PM

http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

"On a 6 speed car, put the shifter in 4th gear and make sure the parking brake is on tight. On an A4 car, you'll need to drop the starter and either install the flywheel locking tool or wedge a screwdriver in. The starter is held in by 2 13mm bolts for 99+ models or 2 15mm bolts for 98 models and is on the bottom rear passenger side of the engine. You can leave the wires attached.

Once the engine is locked down from spinning, use your large breaker bar, a 3" extension and a 24mm socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt that goes directly into the crank through the center of the large pulley. You may need a 2-3 foot extension of pipe to slip over your wrench to break this bolt free. Once it's broken free, you should be able to unscrew it by hand. Once the bolt is out, either thread it back in 4 full turns, or if you purchased a 1" longer metric crank bolt, install it all the way at this time.
Now install your 3 arm pulley puller, mounting the hooks of the three arms on the inner part of the stock pulley. If you already have an underdrive pulley on there, either pull it off using a 3 screw type puller, or be VERY careful and grab onto a lip of the underdrive pulley (on the f-body ASP pulley there is a ridge half way back that can be pulled on safely with a 3 arm puller). Keeping the pulley puller arms all secure and aligned, begin to tighten the bolt on the puller and crank on it until the pulley either comes loose, or hits the head of your crank bolt. If it hits the head of your crankbolt, loosen the pulley puller, unturn the bolt 1-2 turns, and re-try it again. The key when you back your crank bolt out more, you are putting MORE stress on less and less of the threads...however, towards the end of pulley removal it will come off easier and easier so the stress isn't enough to damage the crankshaft threads.

If you get the pulley as far off as it'll come without totally removing the crankbolt and the pulley is still firmly on there, give it a good tug or a tap with a rubber mallet...it should be hanging on by just a hair at this point. If you have the longer crank bolt, this won't be an issue."