Wires and plugs?

**Nathan01ss** · 02-12-2010, 06:24 AM

Ok but I was having this problem before maf.. That's why I got it cause I thought it would fix it.. Yesterday I drove it to work and it didn't want to go past 40, then a it punched in for a second and I got up to 60, my service light was blinking?? On Monday I'm getting plugs and wires and o2 sensor put in at a local dealer, I hope this will help the problem??

**0verkill** · 02-12-2010, 08:07 AM

stock maf and ngk tr55's or tr6's will work i have 6's and they run fine but you need to clean the tb and what not like posted befor and see if it helps if not you need to find a tuner i dont know any up that way but there is a good one down here in cincy.

**Hi-Po** · 02-12-2010, 08:15 AM

Originally Posted by Nathan01ss

Ok but I was having this problem before maf.. That's why I got it cause I thought it would fix it.. Yesterday I drove it to work and it didn't want to go past 40, then a it punched in for a second and I got up to 60, my service light was blinking?? On Monday I'm getting plugs and wires and o2 sensor put in at a local dealer, I hope this will help the problem??

Misfiring

Put the stock MAF back on there anyway. Clean it real good with CRC cleaner like stated.

Change Plugs (TR55 is the correct heat range) and wires. Make sure the wires are snapped all the way down.

Ill ask again, what was done with the o2 sensors since it has longtube headers on it? Have you looked at those sensors (Precat) and inspected the wiring/connections?

I know this was asked, but where are the codes? If the CEL was blinking then there should be codes stored. Get them pulled and post them up.

**ICRAZY6** · 02-12-2010, 09:01 AM

Sounds like your car is stuck in limp mode. It will pull timing and not drive normal. Did you beat on the car? Usually this is when the computer will put it in limp mode so you can "limp" it back to the dealership. Just a thought

**mark21742** · 02-12-2010, 09:36 AM

I'm guessing maybe one of the o2 wires layed against the headers, burnt and grounded out causing the car to go pig rich. Follow the wires and take a very close look at them.

**nhraformula** · 02-13-2010, 05:28 PM

Originally Posted by Nathan01ss

I have an SLP MAF, It gets really bad when I slow down and turn into a parking spot?? I got Taylor 10.5mm thunderbolt wires coming in mail.. what spark plugs should I roll with? I was thinking E3 or NGK TR6xi?

throw that MAF in the garbage and put the stock one back on and problem solved. also a spark plug is a plug is a plug.

**0verkill** · 02-13-2010, 05:42 PM

Originally Posted by nhraformula

throw that MAF in the garbage and put the stock one back on and problem solved. also a spark plug is a plug is a plug.

the car did it befor the maf and no a plug is not a plug some can have a big negative effect. but yes the maf is junk.

**nhraformula** · 02-13-2010, 07:47 PM

Originally Posted by 01 T/A

the car did it befor the maf and no a plug is not a plug some can have a big negative effect. but yes the maf is junk.

what i mean about the plug thing is the fact that a delco will work just as well as some expensive plug. No need for exotic plugs when the car isnt pushing big power

**0verkill** · 02-13-2010, 07:56 PM

Originally Posted by nhraformula

what i mean about the plug thing is the fact that a delco will work just as well as some expensive plug. No need for exotic plugs when the car isnt pushing big power

tru we just dont want some one thinking that some thing like a e3 plug is any good.(e3 plugs are junk buy the way)i like ngk tr6's my self but there are a few good ones out there for sure.

**Nathan01ss** · 02-17-2010, 08:44 AM

Why is the SLP MAF senosor junk? doesn't it allow more air into the motor??

**0verkill** · 02-17-2010, 08:46 AM

the pc in the car dosnt read it as well as a stock one and it is slp. slp is crap the only thing good from them is a lid, line lock, and fan switch.

**SSTODD** · 02-17-2010, 08:50 AM

Originally Posted by Nathan01ss

Why is the SLP MAF senosor junk? doesn't it allow more air into the motor??

Nothing but lean fault codes and damage to the motor. This is why everyone said to pull it off, clean the oem unit and put it back on the car.

**mark21742** · 02-17-2010, 09:25 AM

Plus descreened and larger aftermarket MAFs need 10 x its diameter of strait piping infront of it and 2-5 x its diameter behind it to get a smooth even flow through the sensor to get an accurate reading. F-bodies do not allow for vthat much piping unless you put a 90* off the tb and run you MAF in the middle of a long CAI tube

**pajeff02** · 02-17-2010, 10:32 AM

The stock MAF operates by sensing how much current is required to maintain a specified wire temperature to determine the volume of air passing through it. When you make changes to the MAF, such as deblading or descreening it, you alter the air flow and throw off the calibration. If I recall from the literature I have read on tuning, it may skew it by almost 10%.

Likewise, an aftermarket MAF, which is usually larger in internal diameter, is simply not calibrated per the stock PCM tables. As a result, interpreted airflow and actual airflow are two different things. The net effect is that you actually lean out your motor and as we all know this is not a good thing in most cases. Therefore, unless you are approaching 500 horsepower, use a stock MAF and leave it alone.