56cc Lingenfelter CNC'd heads. What cam?

[Hi-Po]

woo hoo!

[Hi-Po]

Hmmm. Who here thinks ints an absolute necessity to replace the oil pump with cam swap? Does anyone know what oil pump came on a 2005 LQ4/9? My pressure all last summer was great. 45 at idle and it would peg the gauge at 80 at WOT. Im just starting to pinch my pennies I suppose. Spending too much money. Oil a must, under the category of "cheap insurance", or have some of you gotten away with a good stocker?

[Firebirdjones]

Hmmm. Who here thinks ints an absolute necessity to replace the oil pump with cam swap? Does anyone know what oil pump came on a 2005 LQ4/9? My pressure all last summer was great. 45 at idle and it would peg the gauge at 80 at WOT. Im just starting to pinch my pennies I suppose. Spending too much money. Oil a must, under the category of "cheap insurance", or have some of you gotten away with a good stocker?

When the cam was done on my wifes car the stock oil pump went back on. Holds 45 lbs. at idle hot, and 60 lbs. at cruise speed Plenty of pressure.

If I were to do it myself though I'd probably spring for the ported and shimmed LS6 pump just because I'm already in there. For an extra $120 or so it's just something I would do.

But since my wifes car turned out fine with 24,000 miles since the cam/no pump change I wouldn't say it's necessary.

[LT1 > LS1]

you only have to worry about oil pumps in the early ls1's from what I have read.


you should be in the clear, sounds like you got plenty of oil pressure.

[01ws6er]

When the cam was done on my wifes car the stock oil pump went back on. Holds 45 lbs. at idle hot, and 60 lbs. at cruise speed Plenty of pressure.

If I were to do it myself though I'd probably spring for the ported and shimmed LS6 pump just because I'm already in there. For an extra $120 or so it's just something I would do.

But since my wifes car turned out fine with 24,000 miles since the cam/no pump change I wouldn't say it's necessary.

They're like $160 now I think cause I just ordered one from TSP

[Mr. Luos]

$160 is too much.



Replace if you can. If not...you are probably okay.

[Firebirdjones]

They're like $160 now I think cause I just ordered one from TSP

Oh crap, sorry I didn't know they have gone up. Man it seems everything is getting more expensive I guess.
It would make sense to me that prices should go the other way since the economy is supposed to be in a slump. I would think businesses would be trying to get the business in,,,not chase it away.

But anyway it will give you piece of mind knowing it's done and you won't have to worry about it down the road.

[01ws6er]

Oh crap, sorry I didn't know they have gone up. Man it seems everything is getting more expensive I guess.
It would make sense to me that prices should go the other way since the economy is supposed to be in a slump. I would think businesses would be trying to get the business in,,,not chase it away.

But anyway it will give you piece of mind knowing it's done and you won't have to worry about it down the road.

I had 85k on my pump so it was cheap insurance for me. Now only if I'd have remembered to bolt the pickup to the pump I would have saved myself some work

[Hi-Po]

Well the new cam is in. Swap is going great, what a piece of cake. I had the new cam in , in about 6-7 hours. Drinking beer and anwering GF's phone calls. The pulley fought me like a mother. Mainly because I didnt buy a longer bolt. I cheated and just cut the washer part off so it wouldnt catch. After that is was milk. Anyone ever take the radiator out solo? That was a mother***. I could have used a hand for sure. Well the cam is in, Tomorrow I am changing the springs and PR. Anyone ever check PTV with a dial indictator? Thats the way I am going about it, but I am wondering on how to find TDC with the heads not coming off. Spark plug hole? Cant wait to fire her up for the first time, she probably wont run worth shit. I need to get on my tuning game.

Thanks for everyone help on here.

Orion and Mark, thanks for helping me learn to tune, Some really good people on here.

[01ws6er]

Well the new cam is in. Swap is going great, what a piece of cake. I had the new cam in , in about 6-7 hours. Drinking beer and anwering GF's phone calls. The pulley fought me like a mother. Mainly because I didnt buy a longer bolt. I cheated and just cut the washer part off so it wouldnt catch. After that is was milk. Anyone ever take the radiator out solo? That was a mother***. I could have used a hand for sure. Well the cam is in, Tomorrow I am changing the springs and PR. Anyone ever check PTV with a dial indictator? Thats the way I am going about it, but I am wondering on how to find TDC with the heads not coming off. Spark plug hole? Cant wait to fire her up for the first time, she probably wont run worth shit. I need to get on my tuning game.

Thanks for everyone help on here.

Orion and Mark, thanks for helping me learn to tune, Some really good people on here.

Awesome, can't wait to hear it!!! Took the rad out but with the help of friends and it was still a mother-bitch haha. As far as TDC, either use a piston stop if maybe even a straw to catch the piston at TDC? The dot on the crank gear should be at 12 o'clock though...

[Hi-Po]

Awesome, can't wait to hear it!!! Took the rad out but with the help of friends and it was still a mother-bitch haha. As far as TDC, either use a piston stop if maybe even a straw to catch the piston at TDC? The dot on the crank gear should be at 12 o'clock though...

Alright, I guess just point the crank dot straight up? I was trying to get exact, with out the heads off I forsee it being hard with heads still on. So piston stop is outta the question. I guess I will do that and just use my dial indictator.

When the number changes direction that is my TDC. I knew that! Where does everyone get thier "play" spring that is weak and easy to compress? Im gonna need at least one correct?

[01ws6er]

Alright, I guess just point the crank dot straight up? I was trying to get exact, with out the heads off I forsee it being hard with heads still on. So piston stop is outta the question. I guess I will do that and just use my dial indictator.

When the number changes direction that is my TDC. I knew that! Where does everyone get thier "play" spring that is weak and easy to compress? Im gonna need at least one correct?

Billss98TA got his from homo depot... I didn't degree my cam

[Hi-Po]

Im not degreing my cam. Im talking about checking PTV. With my cam and setup, I HAVE to check.

[mark21742]

Billss98TA got his from homo depot... I didn't degree my cam

no, I got the spring at homedepot and bills98ta showed me how to use it on my car lol
if I remember right it costs around $2. get 2 of them (use 1 on intake side and1 on exhaust side) they are very small and flimsy compared to valve springs

[01ws6er]

no, I got the spring at homedepot and bills98ta showed me how to use it on my car lol
if I remember right it costs around $2. get 2 of them (use 1 on intake side and1 on exhaust side) they are very small and flimsy compared to valve springs

whatever haha.

[Hi-Po]

no, I got the spring at homedepot and bills98ta showed me how to use it on my car lol
if I remember right it costs around $2. get 2 of them (use 1 on intake side and1 on exhaust side) they are very small and flimsy compared to valve springs

So then I can do this without removing my heads correct? Am I on the right track?

[Hi-Po]

Well since you are dead set on putting a cam in this thing I would simply check your piston to valve clearance since that's the real issue here.

It's easy to do while the motor is assembled.

Bring a cylinder up to top dead center with both valves closed. Use a dial indicator on top of the spring, valve or where ever you have a nice flat surface. Then use a spring compressing tool like a pry bar version for instance.
I actually use a spring checking tool and leave the rocker arm in place. I zero the dial indicator and slowly pry the rocker arm compressing the spring. Once the valve contacts the piston you take a reading. In some instances you may have the retainer contact the seal/valve guide boss or even run into coil bind before the valve ever contacts the piston. In any event, take a reading and that is the room you have.

From there you generally want to have .080 inch piston to intake valve clearance and about .100 inch on the exhaust side of things. Select your cam to stay within those bounderies. A cam manufacture can help with the advance ground into the cam as well as duration numbers, all of which will also affect piston to valve clearance so as to stay on the safe side of things. Give any cam manufacture the clearances you have come up with and they can steer you in the right direction.

This is the best route to take rather than guessing at a camshaft.

I am going to try this. Home depot here I come... again. What do they carry these springs for? Seems odd that they would have something that works, but I sure hope they do.

[Hi-Po]

So who has done then withOUT the aid of a degree wheel to find exact TDC. Also to find 15* BTDC and ATDC Did you just kind of wing it and stick something threw the spark plug hole to find rough TDC?

[mark21742]

whatever haha.

just playin with you man

[mark21742]

So then I can do this without removing my heads correct? Am I on the right track?

yup you use these with the heads on.
just be sure you keep air pressure in the cylinder to hold the valves up so they don't drop into the cylinder!