Results 41 to 60 of 72
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02-08-2018, 06:58 AM #41
Other than the pre-1978 not really good for high RPM applications, I don't think a oil leak would be terribly common. Especially since they removed an oil pathway from the Cleveland engine blocked as compared to the Windsor. Seems like an oil leak would be LESS likely.
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02-08-2018, 07:15 AM #42
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02-08-2018, 07:20 AM #43Senior Member
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2016 Camaro SS - Summit- 2001 Trans Am WS6 - NBM
I made the LS swap the world joke to him, couldn't resist
But I understand he was just trying to keep the original engine with the car, while also making it a beast, which it was other than the slight but consistent leak.

2016 Summit White 1SS - The DD - Mishimoto catch can, Solo axleback & secondary cat delete, LED sidemarkers & reverse lights, head/taillight blackout, RCC custom badges
2001 NBM Trans Am WS6 - Torquer V2 cam, Yank 3000 stall, Transgo kit, Racetronix fuel pump, TSP LTs, Magnaflow catback, Strano Springs/Koni STR.T shocks, 17x9.5/17x11 TTII's
2000 Arctic White SS #1667 - Sold
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02-08-2018, 07:35 AM #44Spaz is My Mentor
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
where is it leaking?
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02-08-2018, 07:43 AM #45
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02-08-2018, 07:48 AM #46Spaz is My Mentor
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
That sucks. I wonder if it's something that could be re-engineer to use a different kind of seal.
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02-08-2018, 09:02 AM #47Senior Member
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2016 Camaro SS - Summit- 2001 Trans Am WS6 - NBM
I would hope a shop could do something like that if I threw $60k at them for an engine build
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02-08-2018, 06:38 PM #48Senior Member
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Black/Red/Black/Red- 98WS6/06MCSS/86GN/06H3
LOL NO. I had 5 family/friends have the motor in brand new cars back in 99-2000 and all fight motor went before 100k, the car were services regularlly, now my next question is for GTP231, as the years went on did they improve the quality of the 2.7? revised version?????
Originally Posted by 0rion
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02-09-2018, 02:59 AM #49Member
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Silver- 1995 Firehawk
I can answer that. Yes. There were improvements in the PVC system as well as some other oiling improvements.as the years went on did they improve the quality of the 2.7? revised version?????
However i have seen many older 2.7's go a lot of miles. The biggest complaint has been sludge on earlier versions. This was caused by moisture in the oil. Later much of that was resolved.
PCV valves should be replaced every other oil change. and make sure the hoses are clear.
Fluids should be checked often. Very often. If coolant has dropped there is a problem and needs fixed asap. I say don't drive it until you know its fixed. You don't want moisture in oil.
Never ever let the engine overheat. that is sure death to a 2.7
Plus bearings were known to fail. But they actually are an easy replace. Don't even need to remove the motor.
I have become pretty fluent in Chrysler 2.7, because of their bad rep. But with what I know I am confident I can keep them going a couple hundred thousand easily.
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02-09-2018, 07:32 PM #50
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02-09-2018, 08:08 PM #51
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02-09-2018, 11:03 PM #52Senior Member
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Black/Red/Black/Red- 98WS6/06MCSS/86GN/06H3
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02-09-2018, 11:06 PM #53Senior Member
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Black/Red/Black/Red- 98WS6/06MCSS/86GN/06H3
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02-10-2018, 01:40 PM #54Member
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Silver- 1995 Firehawk
Oil change every 5-7,000 miles using synthetic oil and quality filter. Pcv every 15000 miles just ti be safe. They are not expensive. Change air filter once a year.
I check oil and all fluids once a week. But I do drive 25k a year.
At 100k expect to do a water pump, chain tensioner, plugs and motor mounts plus coolant change. Good for another 100k.
When I say babysit it, I mean basically what I am describing here.
The 2 deaths for a 2.7 are coolant in oil. Failed water pumps being the #1cause. PVC failures allow moisture in oil as well. This causes sludge or bearing failure.
Second I s an overheating situation. You overheat a 2.7 head gaskets fail causing moisture in oil and other bad things.
Only reason to replace bearings is if you found you had moisture in the oil. At that point expect bearings to fail. If caught early it’s a super easy job. I never experienced needing to do this on any of my 2.7s. But I have heard of a few who had due to not catching a water pump failure.
I personally like the 2.7. It’s smooth quiet and provides decent low end torque for my Sebring. If needing anything it’s very easy to work on.
Far easier than the LT1 in the Firehawk. Which I curse every time I need to do anything.
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02-10-2018, 07:29 PM #55
I can’t believe you’re so dedicated to defending such a pile of shit. What an engineering failure.
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02-11-2018, 07:27 AM #56Member
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Silver- 1995 Firehawk
We each have our opinions based on our own experiences. All I am saying is my experience with the 2.7 has been very good.
Will just leave it at that.
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02-11-2018, 09:42 AM #57Senior Member
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Black/Red/Black/Red- 98WS6/06MCSS/86GN/06H3
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02-11-2018, 09:42 AM #58Senior Member
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Black/Red/Black/Red- 98WS6/06MCSS/86GN/06H3
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02-11-2018, 10:23 AM #59
Step 1: Remove bolts from engine to transmission
Step 2: Pour several quarts of diesel fuel on top of loose engine
Step 3: Introduce lit Roman Candle into engine compartment
Step 4: Video it with your phone and upload to Youtube
Step 5: Profit.
Properly serviced.Demanding something free on top of a discount is just being a Democrat
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02-11-2018, 01:59 PM #60Spaz is My Mentor
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/
6.0L Block - Forged 403ci
, Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Viking Coilovers, YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.93 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.
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78 FB - Just getting started......
Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!
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