subframe connectors?

**jmb72** · 10-06-2007, 08:13 PM

Which company makes the best set (for the money)? Are 3-pt much better than 2-pt? Thanks!

**nhraformula** · 10-07-2007, 06:36 AM

they are all good. get whichever you can on sale.
i have bmr

**Tman** · 10-07-2007, 08:27 AM

All are an excellent form to provide strength and integrity. I myself have BMR.

**svt_eater** · 10-07-2007, 10:47 AM

I have the SLP DD bolt-ons, but I was willing to spend whatever I had to ensure minimal flexing. The car felt instantly so much tighter and controlled. I would never push it until I had them installed!

**basballny2** · 10-07-2007, 05:32 PM

so all subframes are pretty much the same? its just weird how some are 300 and others are 150 but there all good?

**svt_eater** · 10-07-2007, 09:19 PM

Originally Posted by basballny2

so all subframes are pretty much the same? its just weird how some are 300 and others are 150 but there all good?

I just heard good things about double diamond style, so that's what I went for. I am also trying to stick with SLP parts when feasible. Just trying to keep my manufacturers list as short as possible for now...while I'm into the basic stuff at least.

**patriot1136** · 10-08-2007, 06:35 AM

for bolt on ones, do you have to drill holes?

**svt_eater** · 10-08-2007, 08:30 AM

Originally Posted by patriot1136

for bolt on ones, do you have to drill holes?

Not for the SLP ones. Here's my webpage with the install...

http://www.2002firehawk.com/SFC%20Install.htm

Me and 2 buddies got together one afternoon and took our time. Total install was around 2 hours. One person can probably do it in under 3, we just like to help eachother out.

I'm just missing the final installed pics. They are very nice.

**jmb72** · 10-08-2007, 09:30 AM

For the SLP bolt-ons - what tools do you need?

**svt_eater** · 10-08-2007, 03:50 PM

Originally Posted by jmb72

For the SLP bolt-ons - what tools do you need?

Torque wrench, socket set, a dremel with cutting discs or grinder, rustproof paint, thread locker, and a sheet metal cutter. The torque wrench head needs to be fairly shallow along with the socket as there is not a lot of room to work with on the LCA bolt when the SFC is in place...see picture under #4 on my install webpage mentioned above.

The instructions all come with the SLP SFCs and are very descript and include proper torque specs for the entire install. It all makes sense when you are up under the car. I started with the rear bolt to the LCA on each side and worked my way forward. I have not had a rattle or any sign of issues.

See them with the included mounting hardware here: http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...01&BIG=70801-1

If you have other questions about the install, let me know.
***NOTE: These are for non-convertibles only! For anyone who needs a set of SFCs for convertibles, or for a nice selection of other options, check out http://www.tbyrne.com for assistance. I haven't bought from them, but they have some nice stuff.

**hoss 2000 z-28** · 10-09-2007, 04:39 PM

I just bought these square 3-point and installed them a couple days ago:

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...df86bd3a901cdf

The passenger side will go on no problem but if you have longtube headers you will have to cut one of the bars off of the driver side to fit but the frame will be plenty rigid after the cut. Remember to spray black enamel on the cuts and cap off the ends to keep moisture out.

These RPM Speed (weld-in) SFC's are on sale right now for $189.99 (normally $243.99).

Product comments: Pretty heavy but they are very strong and the ride quality of my car has improved dramatically. A lot of guys will comment on how well the car can remain flat during cornering after SFC instals but I must say they really make the car ride smoother in general and best of all the annoying squeeks and rattles are gone.