back from the track!!!!!!!

[35thz28camaro]

That's not a bad price. As far as gains... I will tell you a short story !!! I had my stock heads ported to the max, got a holley wein intake, 80mm BBK TB, high flow MAP, whisper lid, comp cam, ect... ( all from ebay )
I was running 12.6's consistantly !!! Then I installed the long tube headers w/ Y pipe, and instantly went to 11.5's !!! Had all the flow going into the motor, but not getting out !!! Added the 150 dry shot, got me into the 10.7's !!!
I do have a lot more mods to drive trane too for those numbers...

is your car a4 or m6

[bills98ta]

A4 with a 4600 stall convertor !!! ZOOOOOOMMMMM>>>>>

[silverz28camaro]

well first off let me start off by saying i ran with my toyos and hit almost a 1.8, i borrowed my buddys 315 nitto drag radials and couldnt even hit a high 1.9, i was very dissapointed by those tires, for the street the nittos are great but for the track they have a bad rap for not hooking,

i am launching by stalling up as hight as the stock converter will allow i think its somewhere around 2k, maybe closer to 1600, i cant really remember, without looking at the tach, yeah i just stall up and go,

kinda funny the time i ran a 8.2 i blew the doors off of a lambo murcilago or something like that the guy thought it was cool, kinda weird i was expecting some dirty llooks, i also took out a new m5 and a new m6 same night, it was a good day lol,

but if i was you i would go with the mt's they wear fast so if you plan on having street and strip radials go wih bfg or last nitto if you have another set of strip rims go with mt's hands down, i seen 1.6 60 foots pulled with those on street cars,

happy mustang hunting

i can't understand how you cant get a 315 nitto to hook up. is it the 555 or 555r, mine are 245/50-16 555r and i get a dead hook 1.88 60' with my 3.73 and stock stall, now i m installing a 2800 fuddle stall to hopefully get me to a 1.78-1.82 60'

Also removing weight up front helps alot, i also removed the front sway, bumper support, and plan on a light weight bat, fiberglass hood, and k-member

On the 1.88 60 run all i removed was the front bumper support which is 17 lbs, and since then.....stall conv.20lbs lighter, sway bar and brackets 15lbs, and soon I'll get light bat. 20lbs, k-member 30lbs, and hood 20lbs

that will add up to over 100lbs off the front, so the gain in traction will be there and being 100lbs less your car will pull harder throughout the quarter'

And don't forget sus. mods either, i just have rear lower control arms and subframe connectors and that alone alows the weight to be more equally distributed to both wheels and reduce wheel hop.......GET EM

[98ws6-girl]

you have to realize that just because you car is running slower than someone elses car on here does not mean that your car is a dog..Thier are so many factors that have to be looked at like humidity, air pressure, tempetures , elevation of the track you are running on.. that makes a hudge diffrence, for examlpe my stock, 1998 ws6 ran a 14.1, i went to a diffrent track on a diffrent day and ran a 13.6 . so i gained 5 tenths just by going to a diffrent track at cooler temps.

[BLKCLOUD]

What she said.

BTW, what track did you run at, what day, and what time of day?

I wouldn't add any more parts until you have learned to optimize what you have now. The aftermarket MAF could actually be slowing you down if it is not in good calibration, or is dirty, etc. My advice: Get to a dyno and see what it is making (baseline runs), then get it tuned. Even near stock cars can see a good amount of gains, and a custom tune can fix any small calibration problems that the MAF could be causing and at least bring you up to power levels the car should be making (though it might already be there). Note...make sure you use SAE corrected dyno runs (the dyno operator will know what that means).

Then go out and practice. Get the most out of your current combo FIRST, then start adding parts (one or two at a time), and begin the whole process again.

I don't see where you mentioned gear....what does your car have? If it is 2.73s, a good first mod would be a 3.42 gear set out of an M6 car.

Remember...practice, practice, practice.

Good luck.

[camarojunky74]

i can't understand how you cant get a 315 nitto to hook up. is it the 555 or 555r, mine are 245/50-16 555r and i get a dead hook 1.88 60' with my 3.73 and stock stall, now i m installing a 2800 fuddle stall to hopefully get me to a 1.78-1.82 60'

Also removing weight up front helps alot, i also removed the front sway, bumper support, and plan on a light weight bat, fiberglass hood, and k-member

On the 1.88 60 run all i removed was the front bumper support which is 17 lbs, and since then.....stall conv.20lbs lighter, sway bar and brackets 15lbs, and soon I'll get light bat. 20lbs, k-member 30lbs, and hood 20lbs

that will add up to over 100lbs off the front, so the gain in traction will be there and being 100lbs less your car will pull harder throughout the quarter'

And don't forget sus. mods either, i just have rear lower control arms and subframe connectors and that alone alows the weight to be more equally distributed to both wheels and reduce wheel hop.......GET EM

they were the nt555r drag radials, but also this was a to two different tracks pretty close together i didnt realize that until your post, non the less the nittos suck for the strip but rock for the street that is just personal expereince,

[98_ls1maro]

What she said.

BTW, what track did you run at, what day, and what time of day?

I wouldn't add any more parts until you have learned to optimize what you have now. The aftermarket MAF could actually be slowing you down if it is not in good calibration, or is dirty, etc. My advice: Get to a dyno and see what it is making (baseline runs), then get it tuned. Even near stock cars can see a good amount of gains, and a custom tune can fix any small calibration problems that the MAF could be causing and at least bring you up to power levels the car should be making (though it might already be there). Note...make sure you use SAE corrected dyno runs (the dyno operator will know what that means).

Then go out and practice. Get the most out of your current combo FIRST, then start adding parts (one or two at a time), and begin the whole process again.

I don't see where you mentioned gear....what does your car have? If it is 2.73s, a good first mod would be a 3.42 gear set out of an M6 car.

Remember...practice, practice, practice.

Good luck.

Yeah you are right, I just installed an SLP Lid and bellow and Nitto drag radials are next. I am gonna try to get the best times I can get stock and then add more parts. I do have an A4 with 3.23's. I also have the Loudmouth catback ready to install hopefully that helps a little also. My goal is 8.5's for now.

[BLKCLOUD]

Good plan, IMHO. Installing the Catback wouldn't really be an issue, so install that whenever you wish.

Good luck.
Bob

[98_ls1maro]

Will a cutout give me more power than the loudmouth catback?
I am planning on doing both but would like to know if the cutout is worth it.
and what size do I need?

[greatwhiteZ28]

Will a cutout give me more power than the loudmouth catback?
I am planning on doing both but would like to know if the cutout is worth it.
and what size do I need?

with headers a cut out in the 2 fronts works great, either screw on or electric, ( havent tried that) much is more user friedny