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Had this happen just once about 3 months ago where my car didn't start. No turning of the starter. Now it's Friday morning and I'm supposed to get off work early and here I am late for work because it won't start. Starter probably dead?? I hear fuel pump, just a click from ignition when turned but no crank..
Hard to swap? I tried hammering it to no avail.
Is your security light on? If so, it could be an issue with VATS. Otherwise, I would check for voltage at the starter, then the relay.
Here's a thread on disabling VATS if that turns out to be the issue - http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1429555
battery?
Thanks awesome threa that is! Can I find out the ohms by calling GM parts to punch the vin in etc?
Is this a fix for flashing security light? My light isn't flashing. I tried my spare key and no go as well. I'd imagine if It is a vats issue it's in the ign lock itself?
My first guess wouldn't be vats only because it happened 1x a dew months ago an hours later just fired and ran fine until this morning.
Battery is at good voltage as usual headlights bright as day etc still.
If you're not even getting a, "click" then I'd guess starter relay, or corroded/blown ingition fuse.. Try moving the steering column up and down trying to start it. Could be an issue in the column or ignition switch. After that you're pretty much down to, VATS, solenoid, connections, and starter motor as possible causes...
Many people have intermittant issues with starting due to VATS. The security light doen't always come on either.I don't think a GM parts dealer would be able to tell you the ohms by the VIN.
You could also check for voltage at the starter, while someone is turning the key. Obviously, be careful while doing so. If you have 12v, your starter is bad. If not, move to checking the starter relay.
I also agree with this.Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
But would start @ the relay personally, you need 12v there first..
An old timers trick is to have someone in the drivers seat turn the key to start the engine, while they are doing this, take a hammer and GENTLY start tapping the starter, if the vehice starts, then you know you have a bad bendix and need a new starter.
SteveC :)
:yup: Either way works. For me, it's always the last thing I check that turns out to be bad....and I'd rather replace a relay than a starter :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
My biggest problem here is I've never used a little electrical 'tester' or whatever it's called . Time to bust it out of the package... I let the car sit for the last hour going down to try now and will look for the security light. I did try swapping the 2 relays to see if id get a click.
Ok my security light IS flashing the entire time !!! I guess I never really paid attention to it before but it is flashing indeed. Vats?
I have this.. Enlighten me guys what do I do with it lol .. I can do almost anything to my car but electrical stuff never my forte
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/900d0cb7.jpg
I followeyhe instructions and got 9.53 settin the tester to 20k. What resistor do I need?
I followed the sticky and with key in ign I get nothing from putting the tester to the 2 white wires on the plug. This must be vats no?? Off to ride my bike to get some resistors!!
Anyone tell me what resistor I need? I checked the spare keys and it's 9.49 it was 9.53 on my keys that I use. Setting on the meter was 20k
Get the resistor closest to the value of 9.5. I don't know what values the stores by you carry. If there is any question, get a few different (the closest higher and lower value) ones to try.Quote:
Originally Posted by 5abivt
ok guys im more confused now. I re-read the sticky and I was supposed to check the resistance from the connectors under the dash with the key in the ignition and not in the 'run' position. I tried that and still nothing.. BUT..
when I put the testers to the white/black stripe and white/purple stripe side of the connector.. I get a reading of -6.46 :Ohno: I get this with the key in OR out of the ignition. Still no reading of 9.49-9.53 on any wires though.
isnt there a sticky about bypassing vats?
ya im following it but i have readings for my keys and at the wires its different. just trying to get as much info as possible really
anyone know how many watts it needs to be? no mention of it anywhee in sticky? Im guessing it can be mininal
ok 5 abivt you doing good. it seems confusing but you can figure it out. If you are going to read the ohms at the plug I will disconnect the plug. If you leave the plug on you are going to read a different reading because of the additional electronics in teh VATS. Now remember that if the wires at the ignition switch are frayed or getting cut you might not get an accurate reading. You have to read the ohms of your key. Then go to radio shack or and electronic store and find a resistor that gets as close to that value. You might need a few resistors and put them in series (one end of one resistor to the next end of the other resistor)to get close the specific value. Then you put the resistors in the white plug that goes to the dash, the same one mentioned in the sticky. What the resistor does it simulates the values of the key. The VATS thinks that is reading the key chip and it disable the VATS so everything works normal.Quote:
Originally Posted by 5abivt
The problem is that when the wire breaks or frays at the ignition key cylinder the computer is not reading the key chip value so VATS thinks is a fake key.
So start by getting the resistor and make connect them behind the plug like it is in the sticky.
I will grab a few different ones just in case they go bad but I havent heard of any issues with that.Quote:
Originally Posted by 5abivt
Ok sounds good. waiting for a ride so i can get to an electrical store that stocks billions of resistors. Im aiming for a gold band 9.5k resistor in 1/4 watt. that sound about right? In the meantime ill go try and test the plugs again.
I sure hope this is my problem like everyones in the sticky thread.
If the security light flashes you can't toubleshoot anything until you get the VATS either bypass(which is what you are trying to do) or fixing it. The VATS disables the fuel pump and starter relay. Now if you don't get the security light no more and it doesnt start then we need to chekc some more in the starter, ignition switch, starter relay.Quote:
Originally Posted by 5abivt
makes sense. ill make you guys a short video to show you what I see... brb in 2 mins
ok i forgot that the iphone records sideways sorry... and yeah thats bird shit all over my car LOL.. gonna wash it while I wait for my ride!
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LonnFOtZM50[/ame]
Yeah that looks like is a VATS issue. i just went out to my car and disconnected the plug. Sure enough the security light flashes and the car don't crank. So to me it looks like your VATS is not reading the key value possibly due to a broke ignition cylinder wire. the resistor trick should make it crank. If it doesn't then your wiring to the BCM or the BCM itslef could be bad. Most of the time is the broken wire.Quote:
Originally Posted by 5abivt
FFs this store has a billion but 9.1 and 10k are all I can find :(
how about if you get 2 that equal close to the value? Im not sure what values they have in resistors but like one 5k and a 4.5k? you can wire then in series and they add their value making it into a 9.5k resistor.Quote:
Originally Posted by 5abivt
I didn't look for a 4 and a 5 Dam (duh) think I had tunnel vision because we were looking at all the racks trying to add up what we could see..
I got:
4.7 1% so I have a pack (9.4)
9.1k 5% + 390r 5% so 9.49k
Got a soldering iron too since the last one I used was 15 years ago that I stole from school lol.
Does it matter which resistor is plugged where? I just solder them in series and plug it in either way?
yes there is no polarity. so either side is fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by 5abivt
Wohoooo fired right up!!!
thanks everyone!!
Awesome. Glad you figure it out. See it wasn't that hard.Quote:
Originally Posted by 5abivt
Funny thing is pulled the resistors out so I can solder them in.. Car fired right up... O_o
Is the plug still connected?Quote:
Originally Posted by 5abivt
Nope... Odd indeed. I am putting the resistor on the white/black stripe and purple/white stripe right?
VATS tried to claim another victim, but we are smarter :lol:
Glad you got it going! :thumbup:
Correct. Weird unless it was residual fuel left in the fuel line. Did you let it run for a while or you shut it off right a way?Quote:
Originally Posted by 5abivt
I started and stopped it briefly as I was putting the connectors in to keep making sure they were making connection. The one thing that did happen was I was trying to crank and I pushed the key and the piece it goes into towards the column to shake it up and then it fired up.. So hopefully it isn't key related now. Stupid me didn't even try the spare key because last time this happened it didn't work.
Anyhow I chopped the plug an inch from the connector and soldered the resistors an taped them nicely. I turned the key and waited and the security light disappeared and then cranked and fired right up. I think I got it sorted for now :)
This site rocks honestly thanks for all the input!
Your welcome. With the resistors in place you don't need to worry about the ignition cylinder issue anymore. Just that you understand that you can now crank the car with any copy of your car key. I don't even need to have a chip.Quote:
Originally Posted by 5abivt
Yeah i understand the chip deal now but I dont think I care the least. I forgot to mention that this car might have an aftermarket alarm too.. I can't believe I didn't pay more attention earlier but I noticed the unit taped and zip tied to the column area. I didnt think much of it until I saw what looks like a 'valet' button if I remember right. There's a little button just below the dash trim piece that is removed to access the vats plug.
I had an issue last year with the car not starting. Full voltage on the gauge. Crank, voltage drops right off, solenoid clicks away. Disconnect the battery, checked with the volt meter - 12v - ok. Reconnected the battery, turned over, started. Happened again a few days later. Disconnected the battery, rehooked, turned over. Take a look at your battery cables where they connect to the battery. If you still have the stock connectors with the through-bolt and rubber boots look at where they mate with the battery. They have little spikes on them. Look at the battery terminals. They probably have spike marks in them. Reconnect the cables and turn them off the old marks. The cables will make a new tight connection. Havn't had a problem with it since I figured that one out.
Thanks I will definitely do that. Usually like my last z an engine cleanup is the first thing I do but I've been lazy with this one. I usually pull the battery and clean everything up. Looks like it's in order when I get back.
So far car is firing up perfect after I got it working I left with the wife and daughter 400 miles to Mobtreal for f1 :) made it here ok !
Awesome!Quote:
Originally Posted by 5abivt
Wow guys.. Sitting here in my driveway... No start again.. This time no security light at all.. I guess vats wasn't the problem in this situation.. I'm bummed I don't know what to do i have to work tomorrow!!
At Least I'm at home lol.. I can't believe it's happening again
I'm stumped at what to do.. I tried the spare key no luck. The security light IS off this time so I'm guessing the resistor is still functioning?