How Many do their own oil? What's your procedure to get under the car with enough room?
My car is lowered too, so..?
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How Many do their own oil? What's your procedure to get under the car with enough room?
My car is lowered too, so..?
My buddy's 99 SS that he just sold, you couldn't get under with a floorjack, so somebody had to lift up where the t-top was, with their shoulders, in order for the car to clear the jack. At that point, I would let it down when he positioned the jack to the point in which the SFC points were welded.
This would be right behind where the front fender lips in, and underneath the car. MAKE SURE you do not jack it up from there though!
Drain plug is on the driver's side, so I always jack up mine from the passenger side. Filter, Oil, 15 mm wrench, and a funnel/filter wrench if you're not good like me:D:lol: JK
well i have a low profile jack that fits under pretty low cars, I was wondering more along the lines of low profile ramps or something?Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMasterCraft
Drive it up on a set of 2x4's. That'll give you enough room to get a jack under there.
yeah mines lowered an inch and 3 quarters its a task to get it up on jacks but i always have a low profile jack on the side then jack it up a bit then get a bigger jack on the k member then raise it up that way, always put it on stands though the low profile jack has failed on me before luckily i wasn't under it cause it can kill you pretty easy
driving it up on two by fours will work pretty easy too, never tried it though.
i pull the e-brake, raise both sides, put jack stands under it, remove the jack, crawl under, pull the plug, drain, replace the plug, pull filter, replace filter, lower car, refill
let it idle a few minutes, then check the level.
1) Slightly warm up the engine.. Then shut off and wait ~5 mins for the warm oil to head back to the pan..
2) Drain oil, and remove the filter. Wiping the filter flange off with a lint free rag..
3) Add one quart with the drain plug left open to flush the pan..
4) Clean the opening and plug then install the pan plug..
5) Oil the new filter seal, fill filter with fresh oil and quickly install..
6) Fill, double check level, and start it up for a couple of minutes..
whats the point off wiping off the filter flange, if you just put oil back on the filter seal
Um because it's exposed to wheather and gets dirty.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spikito
Any mating surface should be cleaned before an installation.
You do understand that the filter flange is usually on the engine or a remote right?? Not the filter..
3) Add one quart with the drain plug left open to flush the pan.
That's a new one. First time I ever heard of this. I've changed a lot of oil in my lifetime and have never done this. What oil do you use? So you just basically burn a quart? I would think the fresh filter would be enough.
I have a set of metal ramps that had optional extensions. Works great for lowered cars. If it's still not enough then I add 2x4's.Quote:
Originally Posted by mammoth713
i assumed you were talking about the mating surface for the filterQuote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
I drive up on 2X4's to get the extra height I need to get a floor jack under it. My car is lowered on Strano's. I then always use jack stands to secure it before crawling under there.
I've been using Castrol GTX for about 20 years now.. Yup you are just burning one quart too.. Just something I do to push out any sediment..Quote:
Originally Posted by mchan
*A fresh filter might be good enough, dunno, I can't see in there..:chuckles::drivin:
old ass....ive only been around 20 yearsQuote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
1. Drink a beer
2. Drive car up on 2x12
3. Drink a beer
4. Use small jack under frame rail to lift car a few inches
5. Drink a beer
6. Put low profile jack under K-member and raise
7. Drink a beer
8. Put jack stands under car
9. Drink a beer
10. Get oil, filter, rags, and filter wrench ready to go
11. Drink a beer
12. Remove oil drain plug
13. Drink a beer
14. Drink a beer
15. Drink a beer
16. Remove filter
17. Drink a beer
18. Put drain plug in and new oil filter on
19. Drink a beer
20. Put oil in car
21. Drink a beer
22. Get car off stands and back onto ground
23. Ask wife to drive to store to get more beer.
Sarge Jr :DQuote:
Originally Posted by 0rion
And THAT is how you polish off a 12 pack. :lmao:Quote:
Originally Posted by 0rion
make sure she is nice and warm the oil flows good. put it on my lift:) let it drain for 45 minutes or so. brake clean the filter flange. fill my pf61e with new oil and put her all back together. fill with oil, start it and left oil pressure build up. kill it and check level. then she done. then i print me out a snazzy lil oil reminder tag;)
You only jack up the center of the car from the front? Where is it safe to jack under the front of the car?Quote:
Originally Posted by 0rion
I built a set a ramps out of MDF. I took a piece that was 1"thickx5'x6'. I cut it down to 6 1"x5'x1' strips. Then I took 2 of the 5x1 and cut them at 1'. So I would have 2 4'x1' and 2 1'x1'. Then I took 2 more of the 5x1 and cut them at 2'. So then I would have 2 2'x1' and 2 3'x1. I took a 5x1 and put a 4x1 on top ligning them up on 3 edges, and then screwed it down. Did the same thing for the 3x1. Before I put on the 2x1 I cut a 1' long piece of 2x4 and screwed it to the edge of the 2x1 sticking up (the 2" edge on the 2x1). Then screwed the 2x1 on top of the rest. Then I took the 1x1 and butted it up aganist the 2x4, and screwed it down. I also ran screws through the 2x4 into the 1x1. The 2x4 works as a stop the keep from going of the end. When I cut all the edges that the tire would roll up I cut them at an angle to make it easier. This rasies the car 5" over 5'. Basicly you are stacking 5 pieces of 1 inch thick wood each one a foot shorter. I have not had a car yet the could not go up these ramps.Quote:
Originally Posted by mammoth713
BTW I got the MDF for free. Also, if anyone wants to build a set I will help you out. I can post pics, go in to more detail, and let you know some things I would change (these were the first ones I built).
I drive mine up on Rhino Ramps, drain the oil, then put the drain plug on, but not tight, then jack the front up, remove the ramp from the drivers side, let it down and then let it drain some more.. Helps get more oil out of the pan.. Then put it back up, change out the filter, fill her up and drive off.. I also fill my new oil filter up before I put it on the car, some say it helps with the dry start, can't hurt..
In the middle of the cross support of the K-member...Quote:
Originally Posted by mammoth713
If you try to jack it up by the fender tads (like a front wheel drive) it will ruin them chrushing the fender flange with it..
I see a lot of f-bodies on here that have the front fenders bulging @ the front quarter rocker panels.
In the area between the wheel well and the bottom front of the doors because they were likely jacked up wrong once or so..
The dealer did this to mine when I was having warrenty work done. Except they used a lift. Bent the tabs out and flared the fender.Quote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
Yeah most domestic FWD cars jack in much the same manner..Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcar
Sometimes shops forget after seeing so many..
Easy mistake I have even seen owners make..
I always advise inspection shops before I allow them to raise the car..
that k-member is the best place to raise the car....Quote:
Originally Posted by mammoth713
yeah i put my jack stands where the k-member meets the LCAs
oh and I've started pre-filling my filter too.....seems like it couldn't hurt.
If I understand what you're saying, you put a jack under the very front of the car and jack in the center of the car, lifting the whole car up in one motion from the front?
Could you please explain to me where in this picture you place the jack so it doesnt damage anything:
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...ar_locator.jpg
Just above the words "sway bar" there is a solid black piece. That is the K-member. It holds the motor and the front supension ties in to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by mammoth713If I understand what you're saying, you put a jack under the very front of the car and jack in the center of the car, lifting the whole car up in one motion from the front?
Could you please explain to me where in this picture you place the jack so it doesnt damage anything:
I can not reach mine with my cheap, small jack. I would have to raise the car to get my jack to it.
:yup:
When you crawl under there and look you can't miss it. It's black and looks like a big metal flat plate.
Forgot I had this pic.
http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/.../Camaro027.jpg
It's the black piece that is all bent up and has the white marks on it. Hopefully yours looks better.
ouch.....curb???Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcarForgot I had this pic.
It's the black piece that is all bent up and has the white marks on it. Hopefully yours looks better.
Stump. That is wood wedged up above the k-member, and you can see where it scraped the oil panQuote:
Originally Posted by 0rion
I have remote filters and fumoto valves on all my cars. Easy easy.
i like seeing you back here as a mod:hug:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
Why'd you try to jack your car up with a tree stump? :no:Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcar
:hide:
Well I only can go by pictures because the car has been in storage so thanks everybody for the photos..Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
So just jack it up under that flat piece of metal with the white written on it
then place 2 jack stands under each side of the car under the frame..
Thanks! I will try this in spring and need it for changing the front sway bar too.
As a side note, I would suspect this method puts much less strain on the car..? When you jack up one size of the car at a time, the whole body is being flexed temporarily until you have the other side up. When I had to do some brake lines on my 93 lesabre, I had one side of the car jacked up so I could access the brake lines and I couldnt open the door to get in the car..LOL :sillyme: The whole body flexed so badly. (granted the car is 17 yrs old and has 17 yrs of rust eating at it)
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showpost.p...8&postcount=18Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
Not really a frame to put them one. I put mine where the lower control arms bolt into the K-member. In your pic look just to the left and right and you will see the head of the bolt. In my pic you can see where I put the jackstand.Quote:
Originally Posted by mammoth713
But to me it is easier and safer to pull up on a set of ramps.
I perfer to use a lift
I know your situation....it was a jokie joke.Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcar
Could you tell me how this happened? Looks unfortunate.Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcarForgot I had this pic.
It's the black piece that is all bent up and has the white marks on it. Hopefully yours looks better.
gotcha, but it's still funny tho.Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127891Quote:
Originally Posted by allbaugh_04
:thinkin: How do you get your car on ramps???Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcar
I can't get my Camaro on them because I'm too low..
I'm also not lowered either..
Drive it up on a stump first. :screwy::ughlaugh:Quote:
Originally Posted by Smittro
or
post 21
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showpost.p...6&postcount=21
What's the rest of the damage, what did u end up doing?Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcar
I'll update my thread instead of jacking this one anymore
I have weld in SFC's here. I lift mine with using the SFC's. Once it can sit on a jack I then use the frame to lift with.
Rhino ramps fit under my 02 without any problems. Stock height.
Thanks for the info..:rockon:Quote:
Originally Posted by Z28_Driver
DAMNIT!! that's a good idea! damn y couldn't I figure that out? LOL I ruined that plastic pce. that's drops down on both sides of the car bc of my stupidity and trying to jack it up there. thought it was metal Welp that sucks for me!!! & no comments I now know it was a newb thing to do and prolly expensive. F' me!!! lolQuote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's pretty cool..:vodka:Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcar
Race Ramps. They're a composite type ramp with a non-skid coating, a little pricey, but they work on my lowered SS. California Car Cover Co. sells them.
I also built my own starter ramps with 2x4's and plywood to get high enough to use a jack. Pretty much everything I drive is to low to get a jack under.
Same Here, and I've got the Y3F Package that hangs low :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Z28_Driver
Built some ramps out of 2x10's. Two levels. Work great.
I rarely used the K-member to jack the car up though. Always used the subframe on the side.
With SFC's it is REALLY easy.
When I'm changing my oil I only use my ramps. They raise the car just over 5" and that is just enough to get under and do what you need. When I change the oil in my truck I use my homemade ramps aslo. My store bought ones are so tall I'm think too much oil will puddle in the back of the pan.Quote:
Originally Posted by FMBL
If I'm doing any kind of major work I will jack it up and put it on jackstands.
Me to. Boxed sfc ftw.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Luos
My first Camaro I could get my jack under the sfc no problem. But I noticed the other day on my new one (it is lowered) I couldn't. 2x4 trick worked great.
The old way: Drive up on a couple of 2x12s and using long arms to reach everything. Occasionally a little sloppy, depending upon the influence I may be under.
The new way: Drive up on a set of low profile composite ramps. Leaves plenty of room to easily and cleanly reach everything necessary regardless of influence.
now that is the correct way to do itQuote:
Originally Posted by 0rion
I dont have a lift and I dont use a jack or jack stands to change any of my vehicles oil.
My garage has a concrete walkway in front of it about 4 feet long that slopes down about 2". After that my driveway slopes down rougly 8" or so (possibly more). I back in to my garage and pull out on to ramps. This puts my car almost 100% level. My process is much like others.
1. Back the car in to the garage and pull out on to ramps and let run for a few minutes. 2. Let the car cool down for a while (not cold though).
3. Drain oil and remove filter.
4. Clean drain plug and drain plug area (threads).
5. Clean filter area.
6. Fill filter with oil and screw on.
7. Put drain plug back in place.
8. Fill with oil.
Not sure about you guys but when I put in 6 quarts it seems a bit low on the dip stick so I almost always put in a little extra. My GTO seemed like it took 6.5 quarts instead of 6 as well. Funny thing is that my Hemi Jeep says it should take 7. Someone wrote "8 quarts of oil" on the inside of the engine back and it looks factory. Thing is, when you put in 7 quarts it only goes up to the bottom of the checkered portion of the dip stick. I run and extra 1/2 quart in that as well.
Are you talking about the Z/28???Quote:
Originally Posted by TLS_Addict
If so, they are 5.5 quarts to full. Most put in 5.75 to 6.0 though.
Yes, 2000 Z28.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Luos
I thought it was 6 quarts from the book and even have seen on LS1TECH that most use between 6 and 6.5 (filter change) as the filter can hold up to 1/2 quart. That to me says 6 in the pan and roughly .5 in the filter = 6.5. 6 quarts brings it to the bottom of the fill line on my dip stick. I havenet had any issues with it. My GTO was the same way, it took about 1/2 quart more than what the book said.
Book calls for 5.5. With using the bigger filter 6 should fill it perfect
