whats the deal with my turn signal?

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02-06-2008, 01:32 PM
grouch0jr

ive got the same issue. i can see the moisture on the lense.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Monster-Inside

i had the same problem it was just water building up in the socket due to a bad seal

how did you fix the seal? was it the seal between the socket and the housing?
11-30-2009, 06:01 PM
dbrichrider33333

ya my housing is cracked and moisture gets in and corroded/burned the socket. how do you replace the actual housing??
11-30-2009, 06:21 PM
JoshuaGrooms83

Quote:

Originally Posted by 02WS6dream

before you do that... this is a common problem that i've seen many threads on since i fixed mine. It could be your flasher i suppose... but more commonly the socket gets exposed to moisture due to these poorly designed housings that you say you have had to seal. Look at the socket that the bulb fits into for corrosion. I replaced the housings themselves, the sockets, and the bulbs. The only problem i've had since then (1 year) is that the sockets i bought were aftermarket and the bulb doesn't fit as snug as i'd like and has lost contact 2 or three times. Fixed by simply pushing the bulb in firmly; no more moisture or corrosion. I suggest you look into this before replacing the flasher.

Ive done the whole clean it out thing but i did the opposite where i actually pushed the bulb all the way in and then i pull it out like not even a 1/8" Some thing was funny with mine and i cleaned it one day AND put a new bulb in and it still was not blinking, or it was just blink when it wanted to. I thought it was loose. So i shoved it ws far as i could but it stilll was just solid. I wiggled it a bit and pulled it out just ever so and it stays put and it blinks like it should. No scorching or anything like that. Went to Georgia and back from wisconsin and no probs. Oh and as you drive water, (if you drive in the rain and give it a few years in my case 10) and the blinker houses actually crack and (micro you can only see it if you force air into it from the outside) water starts to push its way in, as well as moisture from humidity and what not and after a while you got your self a blinker slushy, Mmmmm tasty.
12-01-2009, 05:00 AM
Too Fast

Most of the time the water gets in from above, not the front cracks like people think or where the bulb/socket assembly fits into the lamp housing. It can get thru the front if the cracks are big enough, but usually the water gets in from the top of the housing. Since the DRLs are always on, they get hot, and the heat warps/cracks the top of the housing. If you take the whole housing out, (easy to do with a 7mm hex nut driver, there are only 2 bolts holding it in from below), you will see the cracking on the top. I've sealed my cracks, and now no more moisture in the lamp socket, and no water to drip on top of the bulb causing it to shatter.
12-01-2009, 06:47 PM
JoshuaGrooms83

Quote:

Originally Posted by Too Fast

Most of the time the water gets in from above, not the front cracks like people think or where the bulb/socket assembly fits into the lamp housing. It can get thru the front if the cracks are big enough, but usually the water gets in from the top of the housing. Since the DRLs are always on, they get hot, and the heat warps/cracks the top of the housing. If you take the whole housing out, (easy to do with a 7mm hex nut driver, there are only 2 bolts holding it in from below), you will see the cracking on the top. I've sealed my cracks, and now no more moisture in the lamp socket, and no water to drip on top of the bulb causing it to shatter.

never thought of that +1, im gonna have to try that. What did you use to seal it with?
12-02-2009, 04:27 AM
Too Fast

I used some RTV gasket maker to seal mine. Just ran it along the crack. I like running my finger along the crack!
12-02-2009, 11:04 AM
JoshuaGrooms83

Quote:

Originally Posted by Too Fast

I used some RTV gasket maker to seal mine. Just ran it along the crack. I like running my finger along the crack!

:lmao: looks like i gotta rub some cracks then :)
02-18-2010, 09:55 AM
transam_00

If the light is solid on ur cluster it may be ur drl module, simple $12 fix, worth a try.
03-19-2010, 12:08 PM
Pancake Mechanic

Very helpful picture.

right On!
04-25-2014, 01:55 PM
shdowflare

Quote:

Originally Posted by 02WS6dream

before you do that... this is a common problem that i've seen many threads on since i fixed mine. It could be your flasher i suppose... but more commonly the socket gets exposed to moisture due to these poorly designed housings that you say you have had to seal. Look at the socket that the bulb fits into for corrosion. I replaced the housings themselves, the sockets, and the bulbs. The only problem i've had since then (1 year) is that the sockets i bought were aftermarket and the bulb doesn't fit as snug as i'd like and has lost contact 2 or three times. Fixed by simply pushing the bulb in firmly; no more moisture or corrosion. I suggest you look into this before replacing the flasher.

Hey bro,

What are the part numbers to replace the housings, sockets, and bulbs?

Thanks!
B
04-25-2014, 03:33 PM
KahanaReef

Quote:

Originally Posted by shdowflare

Hey bro,

What are the part numbers to replace the housings, sockets, and bulbs?

Thanks!
B

The post your replied to, is from 2007 :)
05-22-2014, 09:17 AM
TexasWS6

I realize this thread is really old, but...you can use tail light sockets from a 1998 Monte Carlo as turn signal sockets for f bodies. Part #85881. Works great and much cheaper. I picked up two at oreilley for $7 each
05-22-2014, 11:26 AM
GULLETT17

Quote:

Originally Posted by TexasWS6

I realize this thread is really old, but...you can use tail light sockets from a 1998 Monte Carlo as turn signal sockets for f bodies. Part #85881. Works great and much cheaper. I picked up two at oreilley for $7 each

Good tip and only $3.22 on Rockauto!!

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