Results 3,941 to 3,960 of 7102
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03-18-2015, 12:29 PM #3941
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Location
- Johnstown,PA
- Age
- 54
- Posts
- 1,104
Silver- 1999 Trans-Am, 2012 Sonic
Friend of mine just told me about them over the weekend he has them on his cars and loves them. I also did some research on them and was more than impressed with the reviews a lot from a Vette form where the guys were running them at different tracks and really liked them...Then I looked them up on their ebay store and about shit when I seen the price for 4 and pads!!!! What a deal
Yea I thought about it but I'm going to try to fit in new rotors,pads and S/S lines along with all new poly end links and bushings and paint I already bought my funds are already dry so bolts will come down the road...99 Trans Am, SLP Lid, Blackwing filter, smooth bellow, Ported TB, LS6 intake, Ws6 lower ram air box, OBX LT's, Magna Flow cat back, LS7 clutch, Tick MC, Hurst Shifter, Frost Tune, UMI SFC,LAC, STB, PB, Torq Arm, Super Hawk hood, Torq Thrust II, Kee Audio.
Strange S60 4:10's, D&S Rotors, S/S Brake Lines.
Nitto NT05R Track Tire's, 12.7 @ 108 / 1.82 60'
Wish list.
Coil overs, Heads & Cam
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03-18-2015, 01:58 PM #3942
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Location
- Nashville, TN
- Posts
- 1,434
Black / White- '00 T/A M6/'19 Hemi Truck
2000 Black TA M6 - LT's, ORY, UMI Short Stick, TT2's, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, Braided Lines, and Tuned by Vengeance SCCA and Car Show Approved
2019 Ram 1500 Crew Cab Laramie Limited
2015 Ram 1500 Crew Cab Sport Premium Hemi - Sold
2010 Hemi Crew Cab Sport Premium - Tuner and HID's - Sold
06 Quad Cab HHHHemi - Sold
99 Hugger Orange Camaro - Sold
97 Camaro - Sold
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03-18-2015, 02:57 PM #3943
Took the hawk off the trickle charger and out of storage went for a small ride around the block02 Black Trans Am Firehawk #1079.Lots bolt ons, NOS
Just one nasty chicken!!!!!
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03-18-2015, 03:36 PM #3944
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Location
- Johnstown,PA
- Age
- 54
- Posts
- 1,104
Silver- 1999 Trans-Am, 2012 Sonic
Boy that's fine looking machine. ..nice nice nice
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03-18-2015, 09:09 PM #3945
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,759
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/
6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.
00 FB Vert - Stock
78 FB - Just getting started......
Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!
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03-19-2015, 05:13 AM #3946
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Location
- Nashville, TN
- Posts
- 1,434
Black / White- '00 T/A M6/'19 Hemi Truck
I've come to the realization that I really need to finish the suspension on my car...it just sits too high for me. If the rear end came down an inch or 2 and maybe the front a half inch to an inch it would be perfect imo.
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03-19-2015, 05:21 AM #3947
- Join Date
- Jul 2009
- Location
- Albertville, Alabama, United S
- Posts
- 21
black- 1998 ws6 trans-am
it's raining today but yesterday put new car cover on and new wiper blades on , while i had cover off got in run down the road about 5 miles than put backup.
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03-19-2015, 03:48 PM #3948
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
- Location
- Houston, Texas
- Posts
- 8
White- '98 T/A WS6
Changed the MAF on a '98 T/A WS6 I picked up back in November for a whole $3,000, and then I went for a cruise with the T-tops off. Just bought the T/A for the body and was going to store it till my child support was done and put a motor in it next year. All I expected to get for 3k was a solid body and a true WS6. Codes checked out, so I was good there.
But when I asked to check the body to make sure it was solid out at the used car lot the lady said, "You want to test drive it?" With 214,000 miles I thought it would be garbage. Got on it when I got away from the lot, and the motor was strong.
Had to check under the hood, and I revved up the RPM and sounded great. Couldn't believe it. Body is solid too expect the rear quarter panel is slightly dented.
Was going to write a thread up about it, post pics, but I guess since I'm new I'm not allowed. Was also going to thank people here for keeping me salivating with all the pics and write-ups. I had to get rid of a '94 T/A I bought brand new from the dealer a long time ago, but with my wife getting pregnant the toy had to go.
I also had a '69 Stang I built way back when, but I didn't miss that car like my T/A. Great damn vehicles and love the agressive styling. That's why after being a life-long Ford finatic in '94 I got the T/A.
Child support is almost over now, so this T/A will be heavily modified in the future. Can't wait. Cheers, folks. Thanks for all the pics and write-ups in here. Kept me dreaming till I could get back into hot rodding. Damn, I missed it.Last edited by TexJW; 03-19-2015 at 03:53 PM.
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03-19-2015, 04:22 PM #3949
Congrats and welcome to the site!
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03-19-2015, 05:43 PM #3950
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
- Location
- Houston, Texas
- Posts
- 8
White- '98 T/A WS6
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03-19-2015, 07:55 PM #3951
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,759
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
Joel, welcome..
As a fellow 98 owner I suggest the following with that many miles. I know you want to enjoy it but if it's on it's stock oil pump I'd be looking for a replacement as soon as possible. 97-98 yrs had shaky oil pumps. Either a Melling 10295 ($125 average) or a LS6 Oil Pump ($190 average). Be careful taking it up to the rev limit. I bounced mine off and killed the motor. Of course I was having fun when I did it. Live and learn.
98's have a lot going for them. Some mild and easy bolt ons that don't hurt the pocket till your ready to mod heavy are:
LS6 intake, P&P stock TB, Free Air mod, Delete EGR & Air Pump, LT headers and ORY (Cat if need be) and a Frost tune. All of these will wake it up and feel like a whole another animal.
If you don't already have them Sub Frame Connectors.Last edited by SMWS6TA; 03-19-2015 at 07:58 PM.
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03-19-2015, 09:38 PM #3952
- Join Date
- Nov 2014
- Location
- near Fort Hood, TX
- Posts
- 412
blue- 2002 Trans Am
2002 auto T/A custom blue, Moser 9in rear end with 31 spline axle and 3.73 gears, Diablo Sport InTune, SLP LM1 catback, SLP lid & bellow, ram air free mod, eibach pro kit springs, bilstein hd shocks, bmr rear sway bar, bmr 2pt SFC bolt on, silver checker stripes 17x9.5 C5 Vette rims.
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03-19-2015, 09:41 PM #3953
- Join Date
- Nov 2014
- Location
- near Fort Hood, TX
- Posts
- 412
blue- 2002 Trans Am
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03-19-2015, 09:51 PM #3954
- Join Date
- Nov 2014
- Location
- near Fort Hood, TX
- Posts
- 412
blue- 2002 Trans Am
welcome aboard, I just got mine back in Nov last year and have been only a mustang guy before the T/A, which I have always loved them for their looks, but also loved the LS1 motor, mine had 109K miles on it and was worried about something breaking soon, which the rear end went out, but threw a built Moser 9in in and called it a day, welcome and the mods that SMWS6TA will be great for you to go on, mine was all stock when I got it on parts wise, IDK if I have a WS6 or not, but it came with the ram air hood and after the little suspension work done, i'm sure its all good now with my suspension upgrades so far, I am fixing to put on my BMR 2pt sub-frame connectors here shortly, I would also suggest the SLP lid, just installed mine and pretty happy, I got a bellow that I need to put in, so can't comment on that one, but it was cheaper than SLP one, but made nicely, if you would like the link to where I got it, I'll be happy to pass it on to you, just send me a PM.
Again welcome, I am moving back to north Houston, or should I save up by Willis, Conroe area. maybe have to hang out sometime,
ASh
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03-20-2015, 02:44 AM #3955
Joel - since you mentioned swapping out the MAF, I will say that you should not attempt to modify it. I assume you have the plastic body replacement MAF, rather than the original aluminum housing stock style? Either way, do not port, de-blade or de-screen whatever you have. All that does is throw off the MAF's calibration and it will result in issues. Our car had an off idle stumble when we purchased it. I tracked the issue down to a horribly ported and de-screened MAF.
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03-20-2015, 04:07 AM #39561998 Pontiac TA, stock heads, FAST 90, FAST 90 TB, FLP LT, off road y-pipe with cat delete, flow master muffler, comp cams 54-457-11 223/231-610/617-112 LSA, Pro charger D1SC with FMIC @ 8psi, FROST tune, VIG 3200 stall, built 4l60e, snow meth kit, MOSER 12 bolt 373 gears, Derale 13900 trans cooler.
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03-20-2015, 08:39 AM #3957
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
- Location
- Houston, Texas
- Posts
- 8
White- '98 T/A WS6
Thanks for the advice on the mods, guys, and welcomes to the board. With this thing being such high miles I've just done the usual maintenance to get this thing going as long as I can. Besides a bunch of fluid and filter changes the main thing I had to do was take out the stock crappy power steering cooler and modify it with one from a truck. I've never seen orange power steering fluid. That one threw me at first.
ASh302, only the WS6 had a PS cooler. If you have a top radiator hose that ties into a metal bar about 7 inches long and then another hose past that you might have a WS6. Best way, though, is to check your driver's side door RPO codes. You'll see a ton, and you're looking for one that says WS6. VIN on the sticker needs to match up with the dash VIN also. And coming back to Houston? Damn, I'd leave here if it wasn't for my family. I'd probably hit San Antone.
Anyways, after doing everything the car runs solid. I've put over 4,000 miles on it since I got the car. Not all of it at WOT, but I've got into it quite a bit. I've backed off lately and am going to baby it till I can rebuild it or get a crate motor in a couple years or so. Only performance mod I've done is put a Magnaflow with duals. The '98 WS6 came with a single exhaust outlet, which I couldn't believe, but it had to go. They changed it back in '99 cause people hated it.
And, RONS98TA, I honestly couldn't believe it. I was ready to call a tow truck and have it brought back to my house an hour away if the body was solid and it didn't even have a motor in it. I said it was 3k, but the actual price the owner wanted was $2,500. With TT&L my cashier's check was 2,929.02. Hell, you can't get a Formula V6 on Autotrader with a ton of miles for 2,500. Had to pull out the paperwork on the car cause my buddies thought I was lying. Just got hella lucky.
Last thing I'm going to do is change the plugs and wires. I remember on my LT1 that was a pain in the ass, and I've heard on the LS1 it's worse. Then hopefully it will last till I write that last $600 a month child support check in 14 months, and then every penny of that can go into my car. Can't wait.Last edited by TexJW; 03-20-2015 at 08:44 AM.
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03-20-2015, 08:47 AM #3958
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,759
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
Plug changes are a major PITA if you have the egr & stock exhaust. Loosen the coil packets on 6 & 8, disconnect the egr hose and move all out of the way. You should be able to get 6 fairly easy this way. With stock exhaust I had to go up through the bottom, I can't remember if I had to move the starter but I do remember I needed to use some extensions and universals to get it one.
REMEMBER to use anti-seize.
Heavy track use recommend these:
NGK TR55's these engines love. They are a copper core so changing intervals are 25-30k.
Look for mpg and longevity then these:
NGK TR5's are iridium plug that last much longer about 70k but you take a small hit on power vs copper plug.Last edited by SMWS6TA; 03-20-2015 at 08:50 AM.
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03-20-2015, 06:09 PM #3959
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
- Location
- Houston, Texas
- Posts
- 8
White- '98 T/A WS6
Thanks for the info, SMWS6TA. Not looking forward to it, but going to get it done. If only it was as easy as my '69 Stang's 302.
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03-21-2015, 04:31 AM #3960
I didn't think plugs were that bad to swap, really. A few more tips: Pop the plastic pins up that secure the cowl seal with a flat blade screwdriver - those little bastards will shred your hands in a hurry. Place a dab of dielectric grease in each of the new plug boots - this will seal out moisture and prevent the boots from sticking to the plug when you go to change them again. When you install the new wires, a set of DEI (or other brand) heat sleeves are a good idea in lieu of the stock steel heat shields. If you get MSD wires, the boots can be bent and will hold their shape for additional clearance. This came in real handy after I installed Kooks headers on our car. When installing the new wires, you should hear/feel one "click" on the plugs and two "clicks" on the coil packs. Not that you can get a torque wrench on all the plugs, but they should only be tightened to 11 lb.ft.
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