Can you stroke out the aluminum LS1 block?

**5.7literMustangEater** · 03-27-2008, 04:38 AM

Well I have been debating myself about if I want to go the forced induction route or keep the beast naturally aspirated. I believe I am going to go the true American Muscle route of keeping it naturally aspirated, but I was wondering if the aluminum LS1 block can be stroked out without any engine problems. I would like to get a 408 stroker kit and put that into the GOAT, but I don't want to do it to the aluminum block if there are going to be problems. I know that the aluminum block would have to be sleeved in order to handle the larger cubic inch displacement. So really what I want to know is if I can do this to the LS1 aluminum block or if I should look into getting an iron block and begin the build up process. Any input along with detailed instructions as to what I would need to do and parts needed in order to get this project done is greatly appreciatted. Thanks in advance.

By the way this is a future project that I would like to do later down the road, so any debate is welcomed.

**superchargedblackgto** · 03-27-2008, 09:42 AM

Originally Posted by 5.7literMustangEater

Well I have been debating myself about if I want to go the forced induction route or keep the beast naturally aspirated. I believe I am going to go the true American Muscle route of keeping it naturally aspirated, but I was wondering if the aluminum LS1 block can be stroked out without any engine problems. I would like to get a 408 stroker kit and put that into the GOAT, but I don't want to do it to the aluminum block if there are going to be problems. I know that the aluminum block would have to be sleeved in order to handle the larger cubic inch displacement. So really what I want to know is if I can do this to the LS1 aluminum block or if I should look into getting an iron block and begin the build up process. Any input along with detailed instructions as to what I would need to do and parts needed in order to get this project done is greatly appreciatted. Thanks in advance.

By the way this is a future project that I would like to do later down the road, so any debate is welcomed.

It can be, but it has to be resleaved, NOT a good Idea as in the pistons will be closer together and it causes HEAT PROBLEMS, this is why it is a "throw away block". IMHO, it would be better to sell it as is and buy a 408 Iron block, now you can make more cu inches by changing the stroke, the biggest kit is from lunati 395 kit, however this may cause future problems because it causes the pistons to travel farther, or a 383, there are quit a few different comobos.......hope it helps,
Brad
any more "?" glad to help

**Sarge** · 03-27-2008, 03:57 PM

Go with a LQ9 and never worry about it. Things are bulletproof.

**5.7literMustangEater** · 03-28-2008, 02:54 AM

Thanks guys. I was worried there were going to be problems with the aluminum block. Guess I'll be getting the LQ9 block and building it up and then selling the LS1 once I swap in the new LQ9 408. Sarge do you know of a good place to look at the prices and such for an LQ9 block?

**Sarge** · 03-28-2008, 01:36 PM

Call Allen Nelson....He has a "connection"

http://www.nelsonperformance.com/

rednari · 04-02-2008, 07:37 PM

The LQ9 block is durable and a good idea. It costs less than an LSX too. But if weight is a problem for you, than add an engine girdle to the block. It will give you a rigid block like the CR5 block, but does not cost anywhere near it. The girdle sells for about $500. That and a set of sleeves and you are good to go. Correct sleeving of the motor will not cause cooling problems.

The girdle stops the block from cracking when on FI and over 700 HP. The stock crank is suprisingly strong and can handle 700 HP.

**LS2Tuner** · 04-03-2008, 11:37 AM

For under $2000 you can get a NEW LSX block which you can make a 450"+ motor is the way to go. You'll NEVER break it.

I'd paint right over that orange powder coat, grind the LSX off the front and paint it aluminum silver...........

Yeah it's a stock 6.0 on 150 shot.

9.50's all day on a 275/40/17 drag radial.

They will hate your tail light on the street.
If it is a street race/driving deal I would build a de-stroked combo.
It would have a 4.25 bore like a 454 or 383 MOPAR and a short stroke. I would buzz that bitch 8200-8500 like nothing. It would be a horsepower combo not TQ due to the fact it's on the street and it would have at least a 150 shot and you gain more TQ than hp.

That's my 2 cents take it or leave it.