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Thread: Ford Rear End
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11-20-2007, 08:14 AM #1
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- Retired Outlaw Sum Bitch
Ford Rear End
HHHHmmmmmmm......
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/GTOParts.ivnu
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11-21-2007, 07:06 AM #2
wow i bet your loving that huh sarge?? lol. i know i would if i had that kinda power
01 m6 z28 - lid / lt headers / 3' ory w no cats / flowmaster catback w 3' dmh e-cutout / nelson pcm tune
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11-22-2007, 08:11 AM #3
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Yup.....I spoke with them Friday......
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11-22-2007, 03:54 PM #4rednariGuest
Good idea, but I am leery of the DSS (Drive Shaft Shop) having had a bad experience with them earlier this year ago. I posted the problem in this forum. But on the positive side, DSS returned my money and stood by their product so the score is even with them. As long as a company stands by their products, then I will continue to do business with them.
But the real problem I have with DSS products is that their u-joint capacity is usually overated; meaning that the company purveys a 700 HP DS manufactured with a 1310 Spicer type u-joint, and their 200 MPH/1000 HP shaft appears to use a 1330 Spicer. I am not certain the 1000 HP shaft uses a 1330 joint instead of the stronger 1350 since I have never had the occassion to measure one, but it appears to be of the smaller type in photos.
I would look into what size joints DSS is using for the half shafts as well as the DS. It is my understanding the system uses a half shaft instead of the weaker CV system, which of course is good. So, lets get a discussion started. Your thoughts and knowledge will certainly be appreciated by all.
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11-22-2007, 08:58 PM #5
I know 04 stuff is suposed to be on the weak side. I was doing 1.5 60 ft's with a one piece driveshaft on 275/40/17's. That also was with stock convertor,cam,and manifolds.
The Inland Empire 1 Piece I got had a 1350 rear U-Joint.
I had the wheel hop under control until I put the gears. Yes I had the BMR bags also.Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!
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11-22-2007, 10:42 PM #6rednariGuest
Hello LS2. Yes, but wheel hop is a different issue and is not a problem readily solved by the DSS rear axle set up. It uses the stock springs and control arms. So, you must change out the stock parts to increase traction performance.
I also have an Inland Empire DS and it is a 1350. I assume for the DSS conversion, DSS will provide a four bolt 1350 adapter or you will be able to readily find a suitable adapter to attach a 1350 shaft. But I would like to know what adapter is standard with the kit, and the size of the half shaft joints.
At this time, I have approximately 440 to the wheels, so a 1310 or 1330 set up would work. But other cars, are pushing 600 to the wheels and that puts those vehicles past 1310 capabilities and close to the limit of a 1330 set up. Racheting the HP upto 700, or the addition of a manual tranny, will certainly put the car in 1350 territory. In addition, there are other owners who have experienced DSS stub to axle failure at around 1000 HP. Of course those numbers are for the serious drag car and not a streeter.
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11-23-2007, 06:54 AM #7
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red- 2004 gto
I am running a DSS 1 peice 3.5 in aluminum DS. Its the 900hp 150mph shaft. It comes with an aluminum adapter in the rear that bolts to the Yoke, in turn the DS bolts to the adapter. IT is a great setup IMO, Thise way you are not messing the the rear diff itself leaving your rear diff vibration free, since you dont have to remove the yoke. Ive run the car up to 150 a few times with no vibration, which from what ive heard is common with the BMR shaft setup. The guys at the DSS are great. I actually changed my DS in there parking lot because my factory shaft was shot by the time I reached there shop. This was not planned but the lent me tools and gave me a ride to the local auto parts store to buy the Star key wrench need to remove the shaft. From what I can tell the guys there are stand up dudes and I will continue to do business with them as long as I can afford them. lol I have beat the $^%# out of that shaft with a good set of DRs in the back and it has shown no sign of weekness. SO IMO they make a good product and will stand firm behind it.
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11-23-2007, 07:21 AM #8
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I have the extreme performance ds.....
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11-23-2007, 09:12 AM #9rednariGuest
Ok red o4. I will not post my previous problems with DSS here. It is sufficient to say they took care of the problem by returning the money. But the adapter I have, and I think Sarge has, is a u-joint strap type pinion flange set up for a 1350 Spicer without bolting the DSS adapter to the hokey triangular Australian pinion flange. It bolts up like an F-body (Chevy) and not a Fox body (FORD), or if you prefer Camaro v Mustang.
As stated above, the standard DS offered by DSS is fitted with 1310 Spicer joints. I think we should find out what joints are used in the half shafts too, because a system is only strong as its weakest link. This is also making the assumption that half shafts are used instead of a weaker CV type system. I have not seen the system so it is yet to be seen the type of axles and how they attach to the hub.
For instance, a 1350 imput shaft (drive shaft) is necessary to control the power imput from the transmission, but the half shafts in an LSD system typically split the power load after passing through the differential. Thus, 1310 or even smaller u-joints, such as a 1280, are often used because of reduced power requirements and due to the smaller diameter of the half shafts for clearance and weight issues.
So, I would like to have answers to these questions and many more before making a substantial purchase.
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11-24-2007, 06:12 PM #10
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red- 2004 gto
I think that your concerns are VERY valid and I could not speak with inteligents on the topics that you have brought up. But when you get the answeres to your questions I would be interested in knowing as well. For the amount that the DSS asks for there product I hope you find it to be a good product. Please keep me informed.
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11-25-2007, 11:21 PM #11rednariGuest
I checked out the DSS website and it appears the axle shafts are the CV type. A little disappointing but still tolerable. Also, you must provide you own Ford 88 diff and carrier. You can probably get an 88 Ford from a junkyard out of a 89-97 Cougar or Tbird for $100. But then you still need the ring and pinion set and perhaps stronger axles stub etc. So, you are looking at spending a $1000 or so for a Strange or Moser center section with upgraded axles stubs, cover, and 1350 pinion flange.
That's why I would like to use my old DS, and the money saved from it, could be used toward the carrier purchase.
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