Help with subframes

**jmb72** · 09-24-2007, 01:48 PM

Are any of the subframes vastly different from the others? If I purchase the weld-on set, how much would it cost to have done?

**greatwhiteZ28** · 09-24-2007, 04:49 PM

go to any local speed shop or muffler shop and weling shouldnt be more then 80+

well there is boxed, tubular, bolt in , weld in, and i think short ones and long ones

**9t8z28** · 09-24-2007, 05:22 PM

also 3 point and 2 point

**Transam388** · 09-25-2007, 01:27 PM

Do weld in as you are not putting any holes into your car to possibly weaken the structure. Weld will also have more true contact to the joining surfaces to make it much more strong. If you do not plan on any real heavy duty racing or horsepower upgrades the standard two point like the Hotckis should be fine. If you plan on some heavy duty racing and upgrades might be worth going to the diamond brace style that not only go front to back but meet in the center of the car as well like I think Spohn and SLP have some.

**patriot1136** · 09-25-2007, 01:33 PM

good question, so weld in is better than bolt on? i didnt realize you had to drill holes to bolt them in

**blue02Z** · 09-25-2007, 01:42 PM

i got BMR tubular weld in. my exhaust shop back home did it for 50 bucks

**paul100** · 09-25-2007, 01:59 PM

Originally Posted by patriot1136

good question, so weld in is better than bolt on? i didnt realize you had to drill holes to bolt them in

I have the three point bolt ins from Slp and they didnt require drilling any holes. All the holes were already in the car.

**jmb72** · 09-25-2007, 02:39 PM

Thanks y'all.

**greatwhiteZ28** · 09-25-2007, 05:19 PM

asked a iron work about this, and he said "back then when doin a building were just bolted in or rivited. but there would be 50 I beams on each floor spaced about 5 feet apart. then welding came in the picture and there were like 25 I beams and spaced 10 feet apart for the same floor.

this gives you an idea of why weld in are stronger