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Thread: Can't seperate ls1 from 4l60e
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08-04-2007, 08:01 PM #1
- Join Date
- Aug 2007
- Location
- Silver Spring, MD
- Posts
- 9
White- 1989 Mazda Rx-7
Can't seperate ls1 from 4l60e
I've taken every bolt off the bell housing and the starter. I still can't seperate it. It looks like there are dowels on each side of the block, one dowel is on the driver side and i can see it start to come apart, however the other side is still stuck. I've really put alot of force into trying to seperate them without breaking any aluminum.
Anyone have any tricks/suggestions?
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08-04-2007, 08:08 PM #2
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- cleveland ohio
- Posts
- 11,373
trans am 00 ws6- 1998 camaro ss vert
i used the tail shaft and went from side to side with it, also used pb blaster on the pins. i cleaned them and greased then before i put the trans back on too. hope that help, try not to pry against the block at all, just work it it will come.
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08-05-2007, 10:36 AM #3
You moved the wiring harness and dipstick tube out of the way right?I have seen it hang several times with just enough force to make it feel wedged. That harness is in a PITA spot and makes putting the dipstick tube a pain as well.
My Toy 00 Z28 1SC A4 - MS3 cam with supporting valvetrain, Milled LS6 heads, LS7 lifters, , ARP rod and mains, All free mods, pacesetters, True duals, moser 9 with 4.11's and Detroit Locker, Vig 3600 tuned, tubular SFC,adj PHR, LCA, adj TA, PHR reloc, LCA reloc. all with poly bushings, ZR1's and Nitto DR's (315).
My other toy 05 GTO LS2 M6- Comp XR269HR cam, 918's, hardened pushrods, Dart Pro 1's, pacesetters, X-pipe, flowmaster 1 chambers, TSP oil pump, Tick master cylinder. Pedders RR bushings, end links, SB bushings, tie rods and strut mounts, total performance poly F&R bushings. Polk DVC 12", Infinity Kappa 6.5 component and 6x9's with corresponding amps.
Her toy 77 F100-6.6/c6. All original (for now)
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08-05-2007, 10:51 AM #4
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08-05-2007, 10:57 AM #5
actually, it takes a little work and a ton of cussing.
I pulled mine by myself and had a helluva time getting that thing off the pins. Just yank the piss out of it and I can PM you the magical combination of cuss words it takes to get it off.
Make sure you have the tranny jacked up so that it's level and not binding on the pins.
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08-05-2007, 08:44 PM #6
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08-08-2007, 05:51 PM #7I've taken every bolt off the bell housing and the starter.
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08-08-2007, 07:41 PM #8
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08-08-2007, 08:04 PM #9
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08-08-2007, 09:18 PM #10
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- Westminster/Sykesville, Maryland
- Age
- 36
- Posts
- 512
Red- 2000 Trans Am
Your thinking Flexplate bolts. Flywheel Bolts can be reached from the starter location. There are 3 of them, Gay little Allen Bolts...
Also make sure when removing it that its level. Mine hung on one pin and wouldnt come off until we leveled the trans back up so that the other pin lined up.
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08-09-2007, 07:17 AM #11
I just kicked the tail one sharp time from the side and mine popped out fairly easily.
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08-09-2007, 04:45 PM #12
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08-10-2007, 12:17 AM #13
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08-11-2007, 08:11 PM #14
- Join Date
- Aug 2007
- Location
- Silver Spring, MD
- Posts
- 9
White- 1989 Mazda Rx-7
I finally got it off. I ended up having to use a 3lb deadblow (plastic orange one from harbor frieght) and a screw driver. And hammering the piss out of the 4l60e bellhousing on the starter side, then sliding the screw driver in and hammering it in gently around the dowels. I managed to get it wiggled off the dowels without marring the block or the transmission. Then I had about a gallon of transfluid all over the floor.
Thanks for your suggestions.
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08-11-2007, 08:41 PM #15
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- Westminster/Sykesville, Maryland
- Age
- 36
- Posts
- 512
Red- 2000 Trans Am
you didnt drain the trans before pulling it eh? Thats the first thing you should do lol. Dont worry i learned the hardway too back when i was a parts puller at a "chop shop".
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08-12-2007, 07:06 PM #16
- Join Date
- Aug 2007
- Location
- Silver Spring, MD
- Posts
- 9
White- 1989 Mazda Rx-7
it came out of the torque converter.
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08-12-2007, 08:06 PM #17
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