HELP. Another "my clutch is sticking" thread.

[Midnight02]

Hello All. I’m having a little trouble with the clutch on my 2002 SS. When I really get on it and run through a couple gears, my clutch pedal sticks near the floor and doesn’t want to come all of the way up. The car has a good number of bolt ons, has roughly 29K miles on it and still has the stock clutch and flywheel. Does anyone know what keeps causing the clutch to stick and if there’s anything I can do to help remedy the problem? From reading some of the threads that come up in the search feature, it sounds like the line might need to be bled or there might be a master cylinder problem, however I wasn’t really sure where to start with this and how to diagnose the problem.

I’m hoping this isn’t the indication that it’s time for a new clutch, but if it is, I would gladly take your recommendation for a good quality, heavy duty clutch for a daily driver with a planned 400 – 420 rwhp (after the heads, cam, tune and pulley install). I’ve read up on a bunch of the threads that are out there, however, it’s tough to get a consensus on what to go with (maybe that’s because there are a number of good alternatives out there!). From my research, it seems like the LS7 clutch is a good low-cost alternative and I’ve been cautioned to stay away from the Centerforce clutches!

THANKS!

[sfletch2000]

Don't know the answer to your question, but just to let you know you won't need heads to reach your hp goal. You can do it with a cam and bolt ons.

And i just ordered my ls7 clutch set this morning, its good up to 450 rwhp, its an excellent street clutch but not so great for the strip

[Midnight02]

Thanks SFletch2000. Yeah, I figured the 400 rwhp figure was on the conservative side for a M6 with full bolt ons, heads, cam and a quality tune!

The LS7 clutch seems to be the best alternative for what I'm trying to accomplish....if it can handle a new Z06, it shouldn't have any trouble handling my LS1. Anyone have any feedback on how well the LS7 clutch will hold 400+ rwhp and a 150 shot on top?

[shady milkman]

hmm check your fluid and hydrolics.

[shady milkman]

oh and do the drill mod..that should help.

[TACE02]

It could be the master, it could be the slave, it could be the clutch, could be air in the lines. Try having it bled if it still persist then flip a coin, mine did that and I was told a number of things it could be. Turns out I had a bad slave and it screwed up my clutch and messed up my flywheel a bit from not fully engaging.

And wouldn't worry so much about the drill mod. Haven't done mine and have no problems. Nor does anyone else around my area and they too have no problems.

[Midnight02]

I was afraid this was going to be one of those "pick a part, replace it and hope that fixes it" jobs. If that doesn't work, repeat above steps with a different part until the problem is solved! HAHA!

[Blackout01]

sounds more like the slave cylinder too me, i doubt its the master you would feel it in your brakes too if that was the problem, a faulty slave cylinder has basicly the same symptoms as a faulty MC, pedal sticking, loss of pressure, goes jam through the floorboard at ease, you got any leaks under your car where the slave is? or the master too for that matter
and definitley try bleeding first that would be the easiest thing, but if there is air in the line, that means that air is coming in from somewhere, which in result means u got a bad line, or low on fluid and sucked air in the line

[Blackout01]

also again if the pedal feels real loose like, it goes jam to the floor too easy too fast, try pumping your clutch a good 3-4 times or more if u have to, if it seems to get any better for even a moment then its the slave for sure

[Midnight02]

Thanks guys! This is a big help!

i'm putting the car in the shop in the next few days to get an electic exhaust cutout installed and I'll get the guys to check it out.

[LS2Tuner]

I would have it bleed first to see if it solves it......If not I would also say it's your slave.
On the clutch tip I would NOT use the LS7 with a 150 shot! I have smoked them on 100 with drag radials. You must remember your adding more tq than horsepower with the bottle and if your hooking that is VERY hard on clutches.
I would HIGHLY recommend the Series 600 from McLeod.....http://www.mcleodind.com/

[Midnight02]

Thanks for all the help guys! I had the line bled yesterday and it does at least feel a little better. Hopefully it doesn't start sticking again! If it does, I guess it will be time for an upgrade!

LS2Tuner....thanks for the feedback on the LS7 clutch with a 150 shot! I was afraid of that! It looks like I'll just have to be content with N/A performance for a bit and I'll probably step it up to a McLeod when I install the nitrous kit.

[LS2Tuner]

Cool glad we could help!

Drive like you stold it.

[Louie]

I used to have this problem. Every time I floored it, it would get stuck to the floor. I would have to stick my toe under the pedal to lift it back up.

Amber at T56Rebuilds told me this:

"The only way you are going to fix the problem and make sure it does not happen again is to replave the slave with a new one, replace the master with an adjustable unit and a new pilot bearing. Right now it could be the slave or master but no really way to tell. Make sure you do the drill mod either way. It is diffentantly a hydraulic issue related to the slave or master."

I got a Centerforce DF clutch, and in the process, I got the new updated Slave, did the drill mod, and a new pilot bearing. It is perfect now.

[menardst]

Hey All,

I have been having the same problem, except when my pedal is at the floor, my clutch engages and my car starts to move. Would anyone else agree that it is most likely the master cylinder "bleeding" off and allowing the clutch to engage? Is there anyone here that could explain or know where there are diagrams to the inner workings of the hydraulics to trouble shoot easier? Also, when you went to get the cutouts, did they find out what the problem was?

Thanks!

[rocksws6]

where is the bleed valve located?