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01-12-2007, 09:02 PM #1
ARP head bolts, are they a good choice?
I was told that they are the best but yet I read that people have had them break. I'm going to be putting my heads on in the morning and have the ARP bolts. How many have had them break?
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01-12-2007, 09:30 PM #2
- Join Date
- Aug 1999
- Location
- Arizona
- Posts
- 51,377
Black- 383 Procharged & N20 Vert
I use their studs. They are great. I would have to think the bolts are just as good.
Black 1999 Blown Convertible A4
Forged 383 | ATI D-1SC
NX MAF Kit | 222/226 .585 115
AS Stage II 6.0L FI Heads
Moser 9" | 3.70 | Wavetrac | 35 Spline | Vigilante 3600
548.0 RWHP - 563.8 RWTQ - 10# - D1
666.0 RWHP - 734.2 RWTQ - 125 Shot - P1
Black 2009 Escalade Hybrid 4WD
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01-13-2007, 03:01 AM #3
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Texas Department of Corrections
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- 18,128
- Retired Outlaw Sum Bitch
If properly torqued they are the best out there. Bar none.
This is my signature. It is mine. Nobody else has one like it.
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01-13-2007, 07:48 PM #4
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01-14-2007, 12:14 PM #5
i use the bolts here as well.
Cold Air Intake, Muffler Delete, Vinci High Performance Dual Valve Springs, Hardened Pushrods, Yella Terra 1.85 Rockers, Some Hydropdipped Stuff, Strut Tower Brace, Some SS Badges, boost/vacuum gauge, fuel pressure gauge, some checkered stripes, drilled/slotted rotors, ZL1addons Stealth wickerbill, Ruxifey LED side markers
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01-15-2007, 08:41 PM #6
Why wouldn't you guys use the stud kit? Just curious why you went with bolts and not studs. Price?
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01-16-2007, 08:04 AM #7
The studs have a much greater clamping force thats why you'll 85% of race motors will be studed.
And ARP is the MOST used bolt on the market in the race seen. If you broke their bolt you have other major issues or your just should'nt be working on your shit anyways!!!!
We build 80% race motors out of the machine shop and I've NEVER broke one or seen anyone else break one in 5 years. Now we have had some dumbass customers come back with broken bolts. When they tell you to oil the threads that does NOT mean enough to hyd. lock the bolt in the thread.
You must clean and run chasers through threads prior to assembly.Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!
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01-16-2007, 02:06 PM #8
Just curious. If you use the studs and the engine is in the car, will you be able to fit the cylinder head over the studs?
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01-16-2007, 02:15 PM #9
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01-16-2007, 05:07 PM #10
The only issue we run into with studs is depending on who's headers your running.............. The flange hits the top of the studs stoping the header from properly lining up. Nothing a little grinding won't fix though.
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01-16-2007, 06:20 PM #11
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01-16-2007, 09:16 PM #12
Yes you grind some on the flanges. It's very easy if you have access to a motor out of a vehical. Just line up the header and mark the flanges where the bolt heads are and grind a 3/8" U upside down.
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01-17-2007, 12:17 AM #13
Any brands in particular you see this problem with more than others? The reason I ask is at some point this spring I'm hoping to do my heads/cam and was planning on using ARP studs when I did it. I run pacesetter headers and really don't have much of a problem grinding them down but I'm hoping I won't have to do that.
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01-17-2007, 06:00 AM #14
If you look at the front cylinders you can see look at the amount of clearence you now have from the flange versus the bolt head. If it's close I'de say your going to have issues. The stud is going to be 3'8"-1/2" taller than your bolt head now.
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