Keep having to jump my SS

**600rwhpSS** · 01-04-2007, 07:43 AM

Last summer i hardley drove my car due to crazy gas prices for Super so when i did drive it i had to jump my battery and eventually changed it to a newone. Yesturday I took it out and i had to jump it with the new battery. I dont drive my car unless its nice out and warm but yesturday was an exception. Any ideas what is causing this-will a battery tender help?

**sunsetorangess** · 01-04-2007, 07:54 AM

You have too start it and drive it so the battery can cycle and charge, You can have the system checked at say autozone for free. If you want hook up a muilti-meter and make sure its charging too eliminate the alt. Sounds like you just have too start it and drive it a lil more often. Try pulling the battery when you plan on leaving it sit for a while, just dont sit it on the concrete, try a shelf or towel.
J

**600rwhpSS** · 01-04-2007, 08:15 AM

ok thanks alot for the advice i will hook up a meter to eliminate the alt and go from there

**SSTODD** · 01-04-2007, 08:29 AM

Yes a battery tender will do wonders. My battery is over 7 years old and I use the trickle charger at all times so when I want to start it I can. just don't start the car with the charger plugged in or you will be sorry.

**rbob93** · 01-04-2007, 08:42 AM

Forget that concrete floor myth....not true for modern batteries.

Driving your car to charge a discharged battery can lead to alternator problems through overheating the stator windings & diodes.
( Beside not being an efficient way to charge one )

Fully charge a stored battery before placing it back into service.

Stored batteries will show a parisitic loss of voltage, so a periodic charge while in storage will help keep them from sulphating.
Sulphation occurs when a battery is left in a discharged state and reduces the life of the battery drastically.

A battery stored in the car will discharge at a faster rate than if it has been disconnected.

**02z28ls1** · 01-04-2007, 05:43 PM

Originally Posted by rbob93

Forget that concrete floor myth....not true for modern batteries.

Driving your car to charge a discharged battery can lead to alternator problems through overheating the stator windings & diodes.
( Beside not being an efficient way to charge one )

Fully charge a stored battery before placing it back into service.

Stored batteries will show a parisitic loss of voltage, so a periodic charge while in storage will help keep them from sulphating.
Sulphation occurs when a battery is left in a discharged state and reduces the life of the battery drastically.

A battery stored in the car will discharge at a faster rate than if it has been disconnected.

X2 on the above-wanted to add that a Optima type battery will last longer and resist sulphation better than a conventional lead/acid type. It's what I use in my vehicles that sit around alot for trouble free performance from my battery.

**2001NBMZ28** · 01-04-2007, 06:25 PM

If you drive it that infrequently get a battery tender. If you just disconnect the battery it will still idle bad until it relearns after reconnecting, and probably still not be fully charged.

**greenvilleTA** · 01-05-2007, 04:55 PM

[QUOTE=rbob93;531044]Forget that concrete floor myth....not true for modern batteries.

This is partly true; however, modern batteries really are no different in correlation than old batteris. The myth was derived from condensation forming faster on concrete than othe surfaces and forming a water conducting bridge on the top post terminals, which would cause a short to ground in the battery, thus draining the battery's power into the ground. Just my $.02

Excerpt from Interstate's website:

Will storing my battery on concrete drain the charge?
No. Regarding today's batteries, this is a myth. A battery placed on concrete will not discharge any faster, but a battery will discharge over a period of time wherever it is placed. If the battery has a surface layer of acid or grime which is conductive, the battery will self-discharge more rapidly than if it were clean and dry.

This myth does have some historical basis. Many years ago, wooden battery cases encased a glass jar with the battery in it. Any moisture on the floor could cause the wood to swell and possibly fracture the glass, causing it to leak. Later came the introduction of the "hard rubber" cases, which were somewhat porous. A current could be conducted through this container, which had a high carbon content, if the moist concrete floor permitted the current to find an electrical ground. The wise advise of the old days to "not store batteries on concrete" has apparently been passed down to us today, but it no longer applies.

**Allen Wood** · 01-05-2007, 05:38 PM

If the alternaror checks OK, then go back to the basics. Make sure the lights and all accessoires are off including the interior lights. Should that check is OK, then diconnect the negative cable at the battery. Take a test light and clip one to the battery and the other to the frame / engine. If the light is on you have a short. Next step is to start pulling fuses. When light goes off then you know which circuit is causing your problem. If the light is not on then go back and make sure everything is turned OFF.

**600rwhpSS** · 01-05-2007, 06:05 PM

ttt

**Fastcar** · 01-05-2007, 10:36 PM

The computer, electronics, alarm system all still draw current from the battery while the car is sitting. An inexpensive battery tender costs no more than $20 - 30 (Black & Decker makes a good one which you can get at Walmart for that price). You don't have to remove the battery from the car and it remains charged, so you can hop in the car and take a drive on a nice day like we're supposed to have in Jersey tomorrow (Saturday). Hummm, come to think of it, it hasn't been a bad winter so far for us but I feel bad for you folks in Colorado and in the Plains states...