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04-23-2018, 09:49 AM #1
Starting the car for the 1st time in years
What’s up guys, been a while since I’ve been on here and about the same amount of time since I’ve started the car up. Finally ready to get it on the road again after about 6 years. Over that time it’s just been sitting in a garage and I’ve started it about 5-6 times in that span but the last time was about 2 years ago. Besides the oil and half tank of gas in there what else should I change before driving it? Tires need to be changed as well but anything else that may have dried out that I should change? Feels good to be talking about the car again, been way to long. Hope you guys have all been good over the years
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04-23-2018, 07:54 PM #2
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
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- 11,808
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
Starting the car for the 1st time in years
change the coolant as well. the lifespan is about 3 yrs. the rear going to leak. if it isn't good chance it's empty. look at the brake fluid. should be clear not cloudy or dark. expect Dryrot on hoses and tires.
Gas only last 6 months. you may have clogged lines. change fuel filter a few times.http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/
6.0L Block - Forged 403ci, Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Viking Coilovers, YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.93 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.
00 FB Vert - "Stockish" Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), C7 Snowflake 17" Wheels
78 FB - Just getting started......
Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!
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04-23-2018, 07:55 PM #3
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- Feb 2009
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
Starting the car for the 1st time in years
pay attention for leaks around the front plate, oil pan and around the bell housing. valve covers too.
Pull the fuel pump fuse and crank up a few times after you change oil. You going to need to prime the oil some. Pay attention to oil pressure gauge in the 1st few minutes, especially the first 30 seconds. If no oil pressure shut down immediately.Last edited by SMWS6TA; 04-23-2018 at 07:57 PM.
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06-14-2018, 04:22 PM #4
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- Jan 2009
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- North Jersey
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- 11,496
Phantom Black Metallic- 2004 GTO M6
All of what Scott said and once you get to the tires, inspect your brake rotors as they could have developed rust from sitting and you might have a brake pulsation. If they are pitted, or have what I call "solder spots" as the rotors look like someone took a soldering iron to them, either replace them or have them cut if possible.
extreme dimensions, driveshaft shop, harrop, hid(35watt/6k) lows, hurst, k&n, led fogs, maverick man, mishimoto, nitto, revshift, slp, stern st-1, smoked sidemarkers, whiteline poly radius rod bushings
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06-14-2018, 06:25 PM #5
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- Feb 2009
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- 11,808
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
or at the minimum run some steel wool over them to knock off the rust so it doesn't Fwak the pads.
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06-16-2018, 04:15 AM #6
Welcome back!
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