Crack In Block

**johngoodman** · 07-23-2016, 09:34 AM

I was pulling my engine this morning, and was transferring it from the hoist to the engine stand. That's when I saw a crack at one of the bolt holes on the back of the engine, above the flywheel. Photo attached.
Where do I go from here?
John
PS: I've edited this post with more photos.

**pajeff02** · 07-24-2016, 02:22 AM

The block is aluminum - the crack can be ground out and welded. Just make sure it is done by someone who knows how to properly do it.

**johngoodman** · 07-24-2016, 09:42 AM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

The block is aluminum - the crack can be ground out and welded. Just make sure it is done by someone who knows how to properly do it.

Thanks! I was hoping that would be the case. One more question - do I have to take the heads off? The reason I ask is that I just got the driver's side one back on.
John

**pajeff02** · 07-25-2016, 01:57 AM

That would be up to your welder. I would actually think that leaving everything sealed up is better as there will be some grinding involved.

***SMWS6TA*** · 07-25-2016, 05:51 AM

wow talk about catching it in time.

Where is this on the block?

**johngoodman** · 07-25-2016, 06:52 AM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

wow talk about catching it in time.

Where is this on the block?

The crack is a bolt hole on the back of the engine, near the top, and on the driver's side. In the photos you can see the flywheel, and the shiny part above it is the driver's side head.
John

***SMWS6TA*** · 07-25-2016, 08:13 AM

OK, Usually if there is a crack it effects the starter mount. This is a first for me to see it on this side.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 07-25-2016, 04:06 PM

Ouch. Let us know how it turns out.

**johngoodman** · 08-04-2016, 05:20 AM

OK, here is an update on the crack at the bolt hole. I've got the engine at a shop right now, and the guy is prepping to weld it. Turns out the crack is completely through the boss, and it actually came off in his hand when he was prepping it. Our plan is to grind down a little, so there is room for new metal. Then, put a stud in it, so that it will stay in place. Welding comes last. This guy knows what he's doing.
John

**35th-ANV-SS** · 08-04-2016, 05:23 PM

Good luck. Take some pics if you can.

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**johngoodman** · 08-09-2016, 10:36 AM

I got the engine back. He did a great job. He took off the flywheel, the Rear Main Seal cover, and gasket. He then taped everything up with masking tape. Now I've got to put it back together. The RMS is new for me. I understand that most folks replace the seal, along with the gasket. I also understand that there are some special tools needed. I don't suppose that there is a "how to" somewhere....

***SMWS6TA*** · 08-09-2016, 11:01 AM

You can do it with a straight edge metal ruler.

Loosely attach the rear cover with gasket and RMS already installed. Get the bolts close enough to hold in place but not to where you can't move the cover.
Next using the metal ruler place it along the edge that the oil pan attaches to and adjust the rear cover. Check both sides. Now tighten a couple of bolts preferly near the oil pan. Now I put a dab of rtv where the rear cover, & gasket meet the oil pan. Not a ton, just a dab. Now hand tighten the oil pan on leaving the 2 long bolts that go thru the oil pan into the rear cover last. Tighten the oil pan to spec. Now insert the 2 long bolts and torque to spec, IN LBS here, not FT LBS. Or you'll be seriously cussing. Now tighten the rear cover bolts to spec. I have not had any issues or leaks doing it this way. Also make sure that barbell didn't fall out when the rear cover was off or you'll have no oil pressure.

**johngoodman** · 08-09-2016, 11:49 AM

I've ordered a new RMS, which I'll install with an alignment tool from SacCityCorvette that I got my hands on. Should I get a new rear cover gasket? The original looks to be in great shape.