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Thread: Did I get a good deal?
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04-12-2016, 06:46 AM #1
- Join Date
- Apr 2016
- Location
- Fort Branch, Indiana
- Posts
- 5
Mystic Teal- 1998 Camaro z28
Did I get a good deal?
I recently bought my Mystic Teal 1998 Camaro ls1 a few weeks back, its automatic, grey leather, all power, t-tops... everything is stock on car, even the exhaust lol. it has 113,xxx miles and bought for $4,500. Did I do good?
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04-12-2016, 06:50 AM #2
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,808
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
Not bad and congratulations, hope it all goes well.
Is this your 1st LSx/f body car?
We have a lot of members here that are very knowledgeable on common issues and other stuff. Ask away if you have questions.http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/
6.0L Block - Forged 403ci, Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Viking Coilovers, YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.93 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.
00 FB Vert - "Stockish" Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), C7 Snowflake 17" Wheels
78 FB - Just getting started......
Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!
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04-12-2016, 06:51 AM #3
- Join Date
- Apr 2016
- Location
- Fort Branch, Indiana
- Posts
- 5
Mystic Teal- 1998 Camaro z28
yes this is my first fbody.
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04-12-2016, 07:04 AM #4
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,808
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
Here is some of the common issues that pop up on f-bodies:
Passenger Window - It dies quicker then the drivers side. Reason is GM ran the + wire to the drivers side and then to the passenger side, by the time it gets there it is under current. There is a cheap ($38) fix from a company called Autotrix. Well worth the $$$, Did mine 5 yrs ago and still have both motors running strong.
Body flex - When you can, invest in 2pt or 3 pt Subframe Connectors. Our cars are uni-bodies, meaning there is no solid frame from front to rear like most cars, the frame is connected to the body for the front & middle but the compartment area has none. SFC's tie the front & rear together and prevent flexing. There are bolt in and weld in, with bolt in you can always go back and weld in.
98LS1 - oil pump is weak in it, trust me I know... It will still work fine for daily driving and cruising around but if you are wanting to track it I highly suggest getting either a LS6 oil pump or a Melling 10295 oil pump. You'll see a Melling 10296 but for stock & mild bolt on's stay with the other 2.
Tune - Check out TunebyFrost.com - he has by far the best mail order tune, even for stock and mild bolt on's like headers.
Rear - if there is a great weakness on these cars it's the rear 10 bolt. If you're a manual car stay away from Drag Radials or slicks.
Here is some Tech stickies on other issues and problems that members have come up with fixes.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/technic...tickies-79083/
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04-13-2016, 07:56 PM #5
Welcome to the club. Fellow Hoosier here.
Boost gets you laid, unless your name is Jon.
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04-16-2016, 02:30 PM #6
- Join Date
- Apr 2016
- Location
- Tampa Bay
- Posts
- 5
Seems like a pretty fair deal to me
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