Ammo Reloading

[2k-Trans]

Salute all,
Love the new section you guys setup here

Been thinking of getting setup to do some reloading for myself and so buddies. Overall I'm probably looking to reload 30-06, .223, and probably some 9mm handgun ammo.

I've been looking at http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=121744 and http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=414369
to get me started, i'm sure i'll end up replacing the scales and such as time and money allows,,,

Anyway just wanted some opinions. Is this a decent starter set for the cost and will it cover me for what i'm looking to do?

[jad628]

Salute all,
Love the new section you guys setup here

Been thinking of getting setup to do some reloading for myself and so buddies. I've got a 30-06 and will be getting some handguns shortly probably Glock or Beretta.My buddies have a range of AR-15, a type of AK-47 with 223's i believe and some handguns mixed in as well.

i've been looking at http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=121744 and http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=414369
to get me started, i'm sure i'll end up replacing the scales and such as time and money allows,,,

but anyway just wanted some opinions. Is this a decent starter set for the cost and will it cover me for what i'm looking to do?

I recommend Dillon. Here's their site:

http://www.dillonprecision.com


I have had a Dillon Progressive for over twenty years. Love it!

If you are a beginner, you need to know that you have to choose between a single-stage or a progressive type. Most people start on a single-stage, which only does ONE loading action at a time and then you change dies, or at least index a tool head to the next die. In order, you de-prime, size, prime, drop powder charge, seat bullet/crimp. For absolute accuracy, handloaders will usually stay with single-stage as it allows everything to be tweaked (especially the powder charge). Progressive loaders use a mechansim where each round is placed on a shellholder and is automatically indexed to the next station. When you are up and running, you get a loaded round with each pull of the handle (most are four-station, De-prime/size, bell (slightly widen) case mouth/powder charge, seat bullet, eject loaded round into a bin. For someone who shoots a lot, the progressive is worth every penny. For absolute accuracy, the single-stage will be the best choice. Now for some added advice:

Any round that has a shoulder (most rifle calibers) will require a case lube. Straight-walled cartridges do not IF you are using carbide dies. Standard dies require the use of case lube, regardless of cartridge type. Do NOT try to size a case like .308, 30-06 without lube. You will have a bad day! It will get stuck in the die and is an absolute bitch to remove (read buy a special tool). It's also bad to over-lube as you will dent and distort the casing. It takes experience to get it right.


Dillon has several models of progressive that will load rifle AND pistol calibers, but not ALL progressives will do that (some are only for pistol-type ammo). Once you have the set up right, you can really knock out a lot of reloads. If you choose a single stage (I have several RCBS rock chuckers), you will take a lot longer to do the same number. If you buy a single-stage to start, you will likely end up getting a progressive later. In my opinion, you need both.

Here's my starter list to do it right:

Single stage RCBS or Dillon
Case tumbler
GOOD dies (put your money in the dies. If the caliber uses them, buy carbide)
Powder charge/bullet weight scale (once again, do not skimp on this)
Powder trickler (for rifle rounds especially)
Powder charge "thrower" (not necessary, but very useful) I have RCBS
Case lube and pad (unless using only carbide dies)
Primer station (priming one at a time on the press is SLOW)
Case trimmer (if you are using rifle cartridges, you'll need this after two or three loads because the brass lengthens and has to be cut down to specs)
Primer hole deburring tool
Neck chamfer tool
Reloading guide (RCBS, Speer, Hornady) for loading data
Reloading micrometer/caliper case measurer

I cannot over-emphasize the importance of buying quality tooling. You will regret doing this on the cheap. RCBS, Dillon, Hornady, and Lyman make up most of my stuff, although I have used Lee for shotgun shells which is of "okay" quality.

Doing this will likely cost you over $500 to get set up for the first cartridge size BUT additional rounds will be much less costly - usually only the cost of dies and a different powder type. If you start handloading on a regular basis you will be very happy you invested in good tooling from the start.

For the sake of all, follow the handloading data! Do not get cavalier and exceed maximum loads. The days of completely filling a case with powder and stuffing the projectile down on it are well behind us! The powder scale will be your most important piece of equipment and you should use it religiously. I also recommend that you try to use powders in pistol cartridges that will spill out if you throw a double charge. You will find as you load, that some powders will occupy much less space than others in the case for a safe load. Some are so compact that you can throw a second full charge in the case without actually seeing it spill out. Such a double-charge does happen in handloading and is extremely dangerous if you don't catch it. By using a charge with a powder that takes over half the case capacity, you are ensuring a double charge will be visible, as you will see it spill out of the case. A case that is somewhat filled with powder will also USUALLY have a more consistent shot-to-shot velocity. But some powders just don't work out that way, and one powder will be much more accurate than another. The experimenting of different loads is part of the fun!

Good luck with your choice and please do not drink alcohol while you load. Drink afterwards!

[Willfully Armed]

I only reload 2 calibers. 10mm and 35 Remington.

I've probably done 3000 in the past few years. Those 2 are basically all I shoot. 10mm is my IDPA round.

I have a RCBS Rockchucker, RCBS 10-10 powder scale, RCBS Uniflow charge thrower, RCBS trickler.

Unfortunately I do prime them one at a time. Gotts to look into a priming station.

As has been said before. Don't exceed max, and don't start at max. Start at least 10% below max and work up. I've blown up a Ruger Blackhawk 41mag by loading .3 grains below max(bad lot of Blue Dot).

I've only reloaded 16 rifle rounds, so I'm just learning on that.

As for a tumbler, its really not a neccesity when your getting started. Pistol cases can be loaded 2-3 times before they are needing it. I didn't tumble at first, but I do now.

Start buying primers now. Its good to have some of each- small and large pistol, small and large rifle.

Primers have been a fickle bitch to find. Having some in all sizes allows you to trade when what you need is not to be found.

CCI primers are the benchmark, Winchester and federal are next best, remington and magtech are bottom. Wolf is supposed to be good, but I have no experience with them.


Lee second edition reloading manual seems to be the most comprehensive collection out there. Has a good bit of info in the front to answer all questions you might have,

BUT, learning on your own is very frustrating and time consuming. I had no direction or help when I started. And it sucked.

Be careful, be deliberate, be accurate.


Feel free to PM me or email me with any questions. Logan@midwestguntrader.com

[jad628]

I only reload 2 calibers. 10mm and 35 Remington.

I've probably done 3000 in the past few years. Those 2 are basically all I shoot. 10mm is my IDPA round.

I have a RCBS Rockchucker, RCBS 10-10 powder scale, RCBS Uniflow charge thrower, RCBS trickler.

Unfortunately I do prime them one at a time. Gotts to look into a priming station.

As has been said before. Don't exceed max, and don't start at max. Start at least 10% below max and work up. I've blown up a Ruger Blackhawk 41mag by loading .3 grains below max(bad lot of Blue Dot).


I've only reloaded 16 rifle rounds, so I'm just learning on that.

As for a tumbler, its really not a neccesity when your getting started. Pistol cases can be loaded 2-3 times before they are needing it. I didn't tumble at first, but I do now.

Start buying primers now. Its good to have some of each- small and large pistol, small and large rifle.

Primers have been a fickle bitch to find. Having some in all sizes allows you to trade when what you need is not to be found.

CCI primers are the benchmark, Winchester and federal are next best, remington and magtech are bottom. Wolf is supposed to be good, but I have no experience with them.


Lee second edition reloading manual seems to be the most comprehensive collection out there. Has a good bit of info in the front to answer all questions you might have,

BUT, learning on your own is very frustrating and time consuming. I had no direction or help when I started. And it sucked.

Be careful, be deliberate, be accurate.


Feel free to PM me or email me with any questions. Logan@midwestguntrader.com

Good info there. One word about CCI primers though. They are very good primers, but they are also some of the hardest. Handguns that have had action jobs that lighten the firing pin strike CAN have misfires due to the hardness of the CCI surface. In most handguns, it's not a problem. Definitely buy in bulk when you can. Small and Large size, but also remember to use "magnum" primers where indicated and do NOT use magnum primers for a "standard" load. You will increase pressures and could cause an unsafe level. It's similar to using several blasting caps in C4 rather than just one.

[drtwrk1]

Dont forget the hornady lock and load sweet unit and it wont break the bank.Quick caliber change. Hornady still has their Get Loaded promo for 2010 they sent me 2500 FREE bullets last year.

[Spikito]

Midway has another press, which is a turret, comes in that same kit, for the same price. it holds all 3 dies and goes much faster than a single press....thats what ill be buying soon