Want to replace my rotors and pads.....

**StrikerWS6** · 08-07-2009, 09:22 AM

The OEM rotors appear to be warped seeing as the car shakes pretty good when the brakes are applied at 70+mph. I've been thinking about getting these rotors with the Hawk Pads-

Rotors-

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=2105

Pads-

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...roducts_id=547

**7camaro7** · 08-07-2009, 10:12 AM

the rotors not being drilled, is a good start. I like slotted. I don't know much about the brand you're looking at though. Ask ws6store about their opinion on those rotors. I don't know. Remember you get what you pay for. I have ATE slotted rotors and got them off of stranoparts.com. They're about twice the price, but I know they're bad ass lol. the pads you're looking at are great too.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 08-07-2009, 10:19 AM

Thanks for posting the links on the HPS pads. I've read good things about those and am looking at the same pads to buy. That looks like a really good price for the set too!

**StrikerWS6** · 08-07-2009, 10:22 AM

Just read a post by sam regarding the ATE rotors. He sells a combo with the HPS pads and the ATE rotors. Check out the links. Seems like a great deal.

http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=16&ModelID=8

**7camaro7** · 08-07-2009, 10:26 AM

that's what I have, I just never got around to getting my stainless lines and racing fluid installed.

**StrikerWS6** · 08-07-2009, 01:38 PM

Originally Posted by 7camaro7

that's what I have, I just never got around to getting my stainless lines and racing fluid installed.

How are the rotors, are they coated with something to prevent rust?

**7camaro7** · 08-07-2009, 02:06 PM

anti-rust coated and they definitely taking a beating.

**9T8W66** · 08-08-2009, 04:41 AM

I have the ATE's with Hawk HPS's also, did the swap early this year.
Another great poduct from Strano.

Heres some pics

**StrikerWS6** · 08-08-2009, 05:24 AM

Those look great man! How are they holding up so far as far as rust goes? Are they coated with something to prevent the rust? Overall, how do they stop compared to the stock pieces you had on there before?

**9T8W66** · 08-08-2009, 05:45 AM

No rust as of yet and as for stopping power, it is much improved over the 132K mile stock parts. My ABS INOP light is on (possibly a faulty sensor) cause I had a hell of a time hammering the old rotors off. But even with the ABS not working it stops good hard and straight. I had basically a panic stop last night and it only slid on the paint lines on the road. Swear it went from 45-0 in around 30 ft.

**7camaro7** · 08-08-2009, 08:06 AM

Originally Posted by 9T8W66

No rust as of yet and as for stopping power, it is much improved over the 132K mile stock parts. My ABS INOP light is on (possibly a faulty sensor) cause I had a hell of a time hammering the old rotors off. But even with the ABS not working it stops good hard and straight. I had basically a panic stop last night and it only slid on the paint lines on the road. Swear it went from 45-0 in around 30 ft.

hammering huh? I bet you're talking about the rears. If you turned off the hand brake they would've come off just as easy as the fronts. I almost hammered, but decided to turn the brake off since my work place was flat.

Originally Posted by StrikerWS6

Those look great man! How are they holding up so far as far as rust goes? Are they coated with something to prevent the rust? Overall, how do they stop compared to the stock pieces you had on there before?

they stop way better. with the stock stuff I felt fade a few times which is when you need or want to stop quickly a few times then the brakes feel like they suddenly let go. Scarey. Never felt it with this set up.

9t8w66, have you felt fade with these yet?

**StrikerWS6** · 08-08-2009, 09:57 AM

I just dont want them to be crappy looking after a few years. The car doesnt see rain let alone snow or salt. They def look like a good unit. I might as well get them with the stainless steel braided brake lines. Anyone get Stranos SS brake lines? How are they?

**9T8W66** · 08-08-2009, 12:19 PM

Originally Posted by 7camaro7

hammering huh? I bet you're talking about the rears. If you turned off the hand brake they would've come off just as easy as the fronts. I almost hammered, but decided to turn the brake off since my work place was flat.

9t8w66, have you felt fade with these yet?

Actually the E brake was off and the rotors had never been off the car hence why they were a PITA.

As for fade never felt any as of yet but I don't repeatedly hammer the brakes enough for them to fade anyway.

**7camaro7** · 08-08-2009, 12:33 PM

Originally Posted by 9T8W66

Actually the E brake was off and the rotors had never been off the car hence why they were a PITA.

As for fade never felt any as of yet but I don't repeatedly hammer the brakes enough for them to fade anyway.

Mine didn't want to come off with the Hbrake on, but when I turned it off they came right off without a fight. I have "tested" my brakes a couple times and they just do what I want them to do which is slow me down or stop in a hurry.

**jaydean21849** · 08-11-2009, 02:36 PM

why not just get them turned unless ur doing it for looks if u have ur rotors turned they will be straight again

**7camaro7** · 08-11-2009, 03:07 PM

Originally Posted by jaydean21849

why not just get them turned unless ur doing it for looks if u have ur rotors turned they will be straight again

getting your rotors turned thins them out even more and causes them to warp possibly faster than they did in the first place if used the same way. New slotted rotors work well because they're thick as new blank rotors with the added benefit of getting rid of hot gases from fade while eliminating fade better than blanks.

**2000redcamaro** · 08-11-2009, 08:59 PM

thanks for all the good info. i need to change mine soon. there are starting to make noise and shake

**7camaro7** · 08-12-2009, 11:55 AM

Originally Posted by 2000redcamaro

thanks for all the good info. i need to change mine soon. there are starting to make noise and shake

AKA unsafe brakes and change immediately

**00z28bubba** · 08-12-2009, 06:41 PM

i dig slotted and drilled rotors for the looks. but the slots arent any better than the stockers when they are both in good condition. our stock rotors and replacement rotors are designed for outgassing. and the drilled are just weakpoints. susceptible to stress cracks. but performance wise blanks are just as good as any d/s, or s rotors.

**7camaro7** · 08-12-2009, 07:50 PM

Originally Posted by 00z28bubba

i dig slotted and drilled rotors for the looks. but the slots arent any better than the stockers when they are both in good condition. our stock rotors and replacement rotors are designed for outgassing. and the drilled are just weakpoints. susceptible to stress cracks. but performance wise blanks are just as good as any d/s, or s rotors.

so explain why I felt the gassing of my stockers which you say were designed for outgassing, and I have not for my new slotted ones?

and I'd like to know where you're getting your info.