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Thread: Ls1 the trail of mods
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01-15-2009, 09:23 AM #1
Ls1 the trail of mods
sup guys had kinda a unique question here.
Everone here probally started doing basically the same mods to their cars after we got them. Since I am new to this my ls1 is completely stock. List your mods you made in order on your car and your level satisfaction with the enhanced peformance afterwords.
Or after finding out more info you came to the conclusion that a different more important mod would have had a greater impact on the performance aspect of it.
I am just trying to find the most direct avenue to getting my car where I want it. maybe If I can eliminate common mistakes that new owners make I can get the most out of my dollar modding my car.
I hope I am making sense here... lol
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01-15-2009, 11:52 AM #2
is your car an auto or manual? If an auto do a stall first.
air in and out mods are good bang for the buck mods and relatively easy to do. Intake, exhaust, and headers.
tires and suspension would be next then larger mods such as heads/cam.
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01-15-2009, 12:14 PM #3
I don't have a ton of mods but here is my order:
1. SLP air lid and K&N air filter, I love the lid but would suggest going with a different filter as the K&N seems to let a bunch of junk by it.
2. SLP line lock, not necessary, but is tons of fun and saves brake pads
3. SLP loudmouth cat back, I like it
4. Pacesetter longtube headers and y-pipe, noticeable power increase and sounds awesome
5. HP Tuners, I like doing everything myself, not necessary if you know a decent tuner
6. PCV catch can, helps stop oil mist from being run through your engine, I wish I would have done this earlier
7. Currently have a 3600 stall, subframe connectors, and lower control arms sitting in my room waiting to be installed.
Hope this helps you out a little
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01-15-2009, 12:49 PM #4
first i put a flowmaster catback on
Second i did the headers, ory, cut out, removed the EGR and took off the cats, and the free ram air mod
then a tune,
i installed a mti clear lid.
future mods are 3:73 gears, LS6 intake, then another tune,(maybe a dyno tune just to do it) and suspension or a stall.
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01-15-2009, 01:26 PM #5
It's an auto... What does the stall do? I've seen it mentioned on here before.
I've heard alot of people run long tubes or hey eventually get to them.
Should I consider running open headers? I seen some videos on youtube and the cars sounded really good.
Better intake is a must as well as aftermarket exhaust.
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01-15-2009, 01:40 PM #6
I've got a basic T/A with an SLP type lid (MTI) and a JAAM RAM plenum in front of the intake.
Cut out the opening in the intake area to allow more air flow as well.
Magnaflow exhaust muffler and tips
Getting LPP Headers and stall this next spring.
Eventually, a GMMG chambered exhaust and super charger. Easy 5-6 grand right there in the chambered and super charger.
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01-15-2009, 10:34 PM #7
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- Pond Hill
- Posts
- 7
Yellow- 2002 Collector's Ed. T/A
A high stall torque converter allows the engine to reach the power band of the cam quicker. The power band for an LS1 doesn't really kick in until somewhere above 3000 rpm. The change in perfomance you will see can be compared to letting the clutch fly at a higher rpm.
It does have a downside to it. If the rpm of the stall is too high, it can make a daily driver difficult to drive. The 3600 that 346ci has is quite radical for daily street use, but everyone has there preference. (I'm not trying to second guess anyone's choice, just trying to give as much info as possible so noone blows a large chunk o' change and regretting it...I have a '69 bird that I just finished upgrading this past fall, and I already regret a few key decisions I made.)
I have the 6 speed trans in my '02 T/A, which gives me the choice of letting the clutch grab at 700 rpm keeping my gas mileage down and take a relaxing cruise, or treating it like I have a high stall converter and letting it rip at 3000 rpm so I can shred some rubber.
All in all, If you do choose to upgradethe stall, do some more research based on what your use for the car will be; street, strip, or a little of both....and then pick an rpm. Good luck!
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01-15-2009, 10:45 PM #8
the stall (torque converter) slips,allowing the engine to run to a certain rpm without the car moving. (think of a centrfical clutch). stock stalls ony slip to around 1,500 rpms, an aftermarket stall lrts the motor rev higher to get into where your power is coming in. most of the time when you do lots of mods to your car the power comes in higher in the rpm band.
even on a stock ls1 you will notice a big difference with a stall rated at 3,000rpm.
if you want loud, I'd run a good full exhaust with an electric cutout instead of opened headers....sometimes its a good thing to be quiet.
my mods = pacesetter LT's, 3" true duals with super 44 mufflers. ported & pilished 241 heads, p&p tb, 220/224 .570/.580 112lsa cam, CAI/ram air, 2,800 stall and hptuners program.
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01-16-2009, 01:33 AM #9
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Beaver Dam KY
- Posts
- 7,745
79 T/A -91 Firebird- 1998 Trans Am -Oynx Black
SLP Lid. Makes it sound cool and didnt notice much power.
Fan switch...Great to keep temps down, saves gas and keeps the car cool.
STB... Didnt do jack shit, looks cool.
Cutout...HELL YEAH! Worth every penny.
LCAs,Torque Arm Bushing. Worth every penny.
Got lots of little ones.. but they made no difference.
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01-16-2009, 03:15 AM #10
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- Location
- Indianapolis
- Age
- 62
- Posts
- 5,188
Black- 2000 WS6 6spd Hooker LT
Air filter lid and made a big difference. Don't waste money on a K&N, just get a good quality filter and replace as necessary. Lids are an easy 10 HP.
A quality mandrel bent cat-back exhaust is worth up to 10 HP also.
LT headers, if you have no emission checks in MI.
Your car (and mine) would benefit from the LS6 style intake, on '01 and '02 cars.
And a stall, in the 3200 RPM range, for your AT car. 3.73 gears would be good too.
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01-16-2009, 04:07 PM #11
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
- Location
- Laurel, Maryland
- Posts
- 4,975
2000 Grand Prix GTP- 2000 Trans Am WS6 M6
1. UPD Lid, Smooth Bellows, Pacesetter LTs, and Hooker Aerochamber Exhaust.
2. Throttle Body Bypass and Descreening MAF
3. A/C Delete
4. Subframe Connectors, Eibach Prokit, KYB AGX Shocks, Adjustable Lower Control Arms, and Adjustable Panhard Rod.
5 (happening now). FTP 85mm Lid, MAF Delete, FAST 90mm Intake and Throttle Body, 5.3L Heads Milled to 60cc, Torquer V.2 Cam, Roller Rockers, Double Valve Springs, 25% Underdrive Pulley, TSP True Dual Exhaust, Speed Inc Fuel Rails, 38# Injectors, 160* Thermostat, SJM Line Lock, Steel Braided Brake Lines, LS6 Valley Cover, Oil Catch Can.
6. (this Spring). 9" Rear w/ 4.10 Gearing, Adjustable Torque Arm and Spohn Drag Sway Bar.
Then after all this is done...a Tune
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01-16-2009, 07:12 PM #12
- Join Date
- Oct 2005
- Location
- San Antonio
- Age
- 53
- Posts
- 289
Silver & Black- 99 Camaro SS
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01-16-2009, 07:45 PM #13
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01-16-2009, 08:58 PM #14
My car is just how it was when I bought it except for a few appearance mods. It came with a STS turbo, LS6 intake, custom grind turbo cam, and a 12 bolt. I have a 383 ready to go in it, along with a few other items.
So I guess you could say my first performance upgrade is a 383.
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01-17-2009, 03:53 AM #15
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