Adding sub to stock vert T/A (Install guide especially for Vert Owners)

[x2qwk4ux]

Well, I figured it out this weekend...first...NEVER buy anything electronic from WalMart ESPECIALLY if the product has ever been featured on "Pimp My Ride." learned the hard way buying a Visonic amp / sub combo. What a piece of chit!

OK...I just bought a pristine 18K mile 2000 WS6 Convertible and didn't like the lack of bass. If you have one of these, you know that both, space and options are limited. The MTX Form woofer thingie doesn't fit convertibles because we have an extra hump for the hydrailic top motor there on the left. I think I've found the best solution to both problems.

Infinity makes a 10" powered sub called BassLink. It is awesome! With minor modifications of the supplied mountling legs, it fits on the floor of the trunk perfectly nestled next to (and below) the factory 12-disc...and there's plenty of room to access the stupid thing. I 've installed my basslink lying on it's side, facing forward...so that you're looking at the control-knob's text upside down. The mod I mentioned earlier in this paragraph consists of simply cutting away the width of the feet. I used a dremel with a rotary file bit.

You still have to run standard amp-wires...I use an 8-gage (Overkill...the Basslink only calls for 12-gage) Monster Cable kit for mine. Anyway...once that's done, you'll be looking for a way to turn it on remotely. There's a 15-amp fuse in the Lwr Rt of the fuse panel labeled "Radio". Undo the fuse panel bolt and rotate the panel forward (inside the hole) to get access to the thinner wire (cuz this one gets power AFTER being fused).

Go to Auto Zone and buy some blue wire-splices...the type that clip on and cut through the insulation at the same time. You'll need 2 packs of them.

Splice into that radio wire and restore the the panel...then run your new, fused wire back to the amp.

You need 4 more splices for the speaker wires.

If you have a convertible Pontiac...you've probably already noticed that ALL existing diagrams do not apply to you in terms of wire colors, connection locations and sequence. We seem to be on our own. No problem.

The Basslink has high-level inputs that work quite well. All you have to do is remove the pillar covers (or whatever they're called...they're the things with the rear speaker grills and seat-belts running through them). You'll need a Torx wrench to remove the rear seat latch studs. After the panels are off...remove the 4 bolts from both Lt & Rt Speakers.

There are 4 wires going into each speaker...locate the blue and green ones...these are the ones you want to splice into.

Blue with white srtipe is your positive, and Green with black stripe is negative. Same on both sides. The lighter colored wires are for the tweeters, so they're worthless for getting a low freq sig.

Anyway...that's pretty much it!

I drilled a hole in the bottom of my ashtray to conceal a lighted (red) rocker switch that goes to the remote amp power (the same wire I ran from the radio fuse). I have learned a new rule that saves me from theft...NEVER thump (advertise) your system within a couple of miles from home. Knowing neighbors are most often the ones who steal your stuff.

Anyway...you're going to want to buy one of those gold-plated GM Battery Side Terminal adapter studs so you'll have a place to run your amp wire. Looks real pretty and works even better.

Performance?

Well, I'm 33 and I like a very diverse mix of music...Rap / R&B comprise roughly 25% of my listening...and that Infinity doesn't dissapoint. It's punchy as hell for the other stuff without flopping around like most 12's do. I have that little plastic tray removed so I can hear the bass better...who needs that stupid thing anyway. I think it's just there to remind you not to store anything there...in case you forget, lower the top, and smash your back window.

Obviously top-up sound is much better than when down...but that's with any woofer you put back there. I think I've heard much better than the "Monsoon" sound system...but it IS pretty good for a factory job.

Once you've done all this, make sure you keep thise left sliders on your EQ down to save you factory speakers. Let the new sub do all the work...no sense beating the crap of the stock (expensive) stuff.

Except for the Wal Mart error...this went through without a hitch. I'm not gonna say it was easy...my knees hurt, and I got tired of explaining to my wife why parts of half my car were lying on the garage floor...but you can't even tell I've touched that thing now...looks like a factory installation.

If you don't know how to solder or use shrink-tubing...LEARN. It looks, lasts, and performs so much better than crimping...especially in humid climates.

Hope I've helped at least one poor asshole in the world...I held that title yesterday.

Josh

[rotwiler]

Nice writeup, I know there are a lot of people that want some bass(nothing to shake the block), just some low fill to make the sound good. I always wondered what the basslink would sound like and it is pretty affordable and all in one. Sounds like it does that job!

[x2qwk4ux]

Yeah, but be warned. It does more than just fill...I have to turn down the bass level fairly often when listening to anything but Hip Hop / R&B. Country music sounds great.

It doesn't put out so much bass that you need 24" rims, a huge gold chain or gold front teeth...but you can definately feel it and see that rearview mirror vibrate.

Anyhow...I like it. I hear there's a Basslink II that's even better. It's also a powered sub, but with 50W more power and has provisions to amplify existing factory speakers.

Top down = Where's the sub?!?!

Off to wax the paint and condition the leather....have fun!