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Thread: K-member swap and upgrades
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03-21-2012, 06:39 PM #101
After yesterday's alignment, I set the car up on the wheel blocks and with the suspension loaded I torqued the lower control arm bolts to around 95 ft.lbs. That's a little more than the stock torque recommendation but since the K-member is slotted and now has a combination of poly bushings and heim joints, I wanted to make sure that nothing moves around. I also marked the bolt heads on the lower control arms just in case something does slip. This will allow me to bring it back into spec very easily without a trip back to the alignment shop.
Out back, I had one cosmetic swap that I forgot to mention in my original list. The Moser 12 bolt aluminum cover came with black oxide button head bolts that had rusted. I had purchased replacements last year at Fall Carlisle, but came up 1/4" short on my guess at their length. I think it was Zapper who mentioned that Fastenal carries these in stainless and sure enough, I was able to find exactly what I needed on the shelf. I removed the bolts a couple at a time and replaced them with the stainless bolts so as not to break the seal on the differential cover. Once they were all replaced, I cross torqued them down in 3 steps to a final torque of 18 ft.lbs. The nuts on the bearing cap support screws are also a bit rusted, but I will deal with them later.
Winding up for the night, and having completed this round of mods, I snapped a pic of the entire undercarriage. It's been a great winter/spring project in the garage and everything went well, but now it is time to drive her!
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03-21-2012, 06:55 PM #102
I think it might've been Dan that said about fastenal. Regardless, much better than rust.
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06-15-2012, 10:25 AM #103
- Join Date
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- texas
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silver- 2000 formula
So how many miles ya got on it so far? still holding up?
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06-15-2012, 06:47 PM #104
She's been to the track twice and I have driven it quite a bit during the past few weeks. Had it out tonight for a run to the parts store and took a friend for his first ride in it. He actually flinched in the seat when I punched it -- that made me smile. So far, all is well and I am looking forward to swapping out the bumper support when I get a chance to work on it.
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06-15-2012, 08:16 PM #105
Wow! As always looks amazing Jeff!! Great write up! I don't understand why so much work into the decarbons though, get some Konis!
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06-16-2012, 06:18 AM #106
So far, the stock shock and spring setup has done well. I turned a best 60' of 1.69 seconds with it last year and the car appears to launch very well. Once I up the power, it may be time to break down and order shocks and springs. I still don't think I will lower the car, even though they do look better dropped.
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07-12-2012, 09:27 AM #107
Great write up! I am getting ready to do a K-Member swap as well, any advice?
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07-12-2012, 01:37 PM #108
The biggest issues were lining up the engine mounts and getting the GM backwards bolts removed. I would probably just start by unbolting the stock engine mount stands from the K-member and then getting that out of the way before attacking the mounts on the block. Take your time and keep track of things as you go.
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07-12-2012, 03:44 PM #109
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06-05-2013, 07:10 PM #110
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06-06-2013, 03:36 AM #111
I looked again at the second pic up from the bottom and they are either nylocks or crimp locks -- hard to tell and I honestly do not remember. I am thinking that the nuts and bolts may have been included in the poly mount kit.
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06-06-2013, 08:03 AM #112
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- Feb 2009
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
ok, I guess it just needs to be strong enough to keep the poly in place. Thx's
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06-06-2013, 02:06 PM #113
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06-07-2013, 09:13 AM #114
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