LC-1 install

**pajeff02** · 07-12-2010, 09:21 AM

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

This seems a bit complex. I like it.

Glad to hear that someone finds this entertaining - lol. I had the LC-1 controller neatly tucked under my brake booster and had to rip it all back out to unplug it. I have a meeting tonight and am hoping I get done early enough to get out to the garage for a bit.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 07-12-2010, 09:23 AM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

Glad to hear that someone finds this entertaining - lol. I had the LC-1 controller neatly tucked under my brake booster and had to rip it all back out to unplug it. I have a meeting tonight and am hoping I get done early enough to get out to the garage for a bit.

Well I wasn't inferring that your troubles were entertaining

just all that is involved with tuning, monitoring, etc. I have confidence you'll get it figured out.

**pajeff02** · 07-13-2010, 06:12 AM

Everything is hooked back up now, but rather than fire it off I put the car in the air to change the fluid in the rear and look things over. We have 500 miles on it now and I want to put a dial gauge on it to check the play. I have a faint thin stripe around the center of the ring gear's teeth, but everything else appears good. Not sure what that could be.

Back to the LC-1 -- I did some more reading and am wondering if changing the sampling rate on the Analog 1 output would affect my A-pillar gauge. Right now, it is sloped similar to a narrowband in the setup and reads from approximately 0.2 to 1.2 volts. If I slow down the sampling rate from instantaneous to 1/12 or 1/6 might it possibly avoid the error I am getting? So far Innovate has not replied to my inquiry.

**luvmyz28** · 07-13-2010, 04:31 PM

O.k. I got the wires all connected except 1. In the quick start guide for the db-16 gauge that came with my lc-1 it says the yellow wire from the guage is to be hooked to a power wire supplying current to the headlights for dimming the guage at night. then it says if I dont want this feature that I need to connect the purple wire to ground. Only one problem with that.
I HAVE NO PURPLE WIRE! Lol! I have a red, black,white,and yellow goin to the guage.

Red:12v
Black:ground
White: connected to lc-1 brown analog out 2.
Yellow: connect to headlights or ?

I dont need a dimming feature and I dont wanna hack my headlight wiring harness.

So do I connect the yellow from the guage to ground or cap it off?

Yeah I know this is taking me a very long time to do this. Lol.

**pajeff02** · 07-13-2010, 04:44 PM

The headlight connection is actually quite simple. I checked my factory service manual to find the correct wire and then popped the headlight switch out of the dash (on our car you have to remove the instrument cluster bezel first). I backprobed the wires with a test light to ensure I had the correct one and then spliced it at the switch.

If you are utilizing the paper instructions that came with your gauge, try the instructions on your disk (also on the Innovate website) as they are much more detailed. Let us know how you make out with the wiring.

**luvmyz28** · 07-13-2010, 04:54 PM

Thanks for the quick reply. I checked the disk but it says nothing about my guage. I'll give the web site a quick search though.

Thanks.

**pajeff02** · 07-13-2010, 04:56 PM

Here's a link: http://innovatemotorsports.com/support.php

**0rion** · 07-13-2010, 05:24 PM

read the other side of the page....you're reading the side if you have an LM-1

From the LC-1 instructions:

1. Wire the LC-1 per the unit’s instructions
2. Connect the gauge’s RED wire to a switched 12 volt source
(ignition switched).
3. Connect the gauge’s BLACK ground wire at the LC-1’s
White ground point. This ground point should ideally be an
engine block ground.
4. Connect the gauge’s WHITE wire to the LC-1’s Brown
analog output 2. The gauge is setup to work with the LC-1’s
analog output 2 factory default setting of 0v = 7.35 A/F and
5v = 22.39 A/F.
5. Connect the YELLOW wire to a headlight power wire (a
wire that supplies current to the headlights). This enables the
display to dim for better nighttime viewing. DO NOT
CONNECT THIS WIRE TO THE HEADLIGHT DIMMING
WIRE. Connection to this rheostat type of switch will cause
the gauge to malfunction. If you chose not to utilize the
dimming feature, connect the yellow wire to ground.

**pajeff02** · 07-13-2010, 05:54 PM

Good catch! I saw "DB-16 gauge" and thought he had something different than my setup -- never realized that is what the gauge was called.

On a side note... I just got off the phone with ECM. I've been all over the web looking for a retailer on their Lambda Pro setup and couldn't come up with anything. I have other cars that we need to tune and want a portable since the LC-1 is hardwired to the T/A. The good news: The fact that I am registered for one of Banish's classes entitles me to a discount. The bad news: Even with the discount they want $3,200.00.

**luvmyz28** · 07-13-2010, 07:22 PM

Originally Posted by 0rion

read the other side of the page....you're reading the side if you have an LM-1

From the LC-1 instructions:

1. Wire the LC-1 per the unit’s instructions
2. Connect the gauge’s RED wire to a switched 12 volt source
(ignition switched).
3. Connect the gauge’s BLACK ground wire at the LC-1’s
White ground point. This ground point should ideally be an
engine block ground.
4. Connect the gauge’s WHITE wire to the LC-1’s Brown
analog output 2. The gauge is setup to work with the LC-1’s
analog output 2 factory default setting of 0v = 7.35 A/F and
5v = 22.39 A/F.
5. Connect the YELLOW wire to a headlight power wire (a
wire that supplies current to the headlights). This enables the
display to dim for better nighttime viewing. DO NOT
CONNECT THIS WIRE TO THE HEADLIGHT DIMMING
WIRE. Connection to this rheostat type of switch will cause
the gauge to malfunction. If you chose not to utilize the
dimming feature, connect the yellow wire to ground.

Well you may not believe this but on both sides it says connect the purple wire to ground. lol. I've been lookin at the lc-1 side. Thats what I have. So I just need to ground the yellow wire and all is well.

I have the 6 wire lc-1. scratchin my head on where the purple wire came from. I dont have any. lol

**Cutlass** · 07-13-2010, 07:26 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

On a side note... I just got off the phone with ECM. I've been all over the web looking for a retailer on their Lambda Pro setup and couldn't come up with anything. I have other cars that we need to tune and want a portable since the LC-1 is hardwired to the T/A. The good news: The fact that I am registered for one of Banish's classes entitles me to a discount. The bad news: Even with the discount they want $3,200.00.

wow...at that price I'd rather just buy an LM1

**pajeff02** · 07-14-2010, 03:09 AM

Originally Posted by Cutlass

wow...at that price I'd rather just buy an LM1

Ordered an LM-2 last night.

**Frost** · 07-14-2010, 06:45 AM

I had fits with 2 LM-2s and ditched them both. I had the same problems that their forum is replete with... On top of that, the sensor's heater controller seems to be totally unchanged since the LM1 (which is a great piece). It seems like all of the cost is for all of the gadgetry. We don't need ANY of that other crap because we log it all with software.

Used and new old stock of the LM1's are very very affordable.

FWIW, ECM did the NGK AFX controller design. Besides the fact that they picked an odd number for stoich that seems to relentlessly confuse folks, the AFX is great. It can run the higher end NTK sensor that is lead tolerant as well.

**pajeff02** · 07-14-2010, 07:24 AM

Looks like I should have asked on this one... my bad.

**Frost** · 07-14-2010, 07:25 AM

hopefully yours works better than the units that I received

**Cutlass** · 07-14-2010, 02:49 PM

So would I be better off buying a LC1 and making it portable so I can swap it in and out of cars or buying a LM1? Because I've been close to buying an LM1 for a couple weeks now, I just haven't pulled the trigger.
From the sounds of it, LC1 is the better choice.

**0rion** · 07-14-2010, 02:53 PM

I think it's the LM-2 he's had issues with. I have the LM-1 and LC-1 and never had any issues with either.

**Cutlass** · 07-14-2010, 06:16 PM

ahhh gotcha. Yeah they were talking about LM2s...I read that wrong. I think LM1 would do about all I think I'd use it for. I figured I'd use HpTuners to datalog anything GM I was tinkering with and maybe use the built in datalogging of the LM1 for any other random thing I come across.

**pajeff02** · 07-14-2010, 06:33 PM

LM-2 should be here by Friday -- I'll let you know how it works. I am still wondering on my LC-1 if I can change the sampling rate on the Analog 1 output without adversely affecting the gauge. Can't hurt to try it, right?

**pajeff02** · 07-17-2010, 06:42 PM

The LM-2 showed up yesterday and we used it last night to get the fueling set up on a TBI motor in a rock crawler. It worked perfectly and we were able to set the idle and main fueling quite easily. Next step will be a test drive to dial in the rest of the fuel map for it. I did go with the basic LM-2 with none of the bells and whistles.

Now... my LC-1 is giving me fits. I cannot get it to free air calibrate to anything other than 21.9% oxygen. That's 1% too high and it is whacking out my gauge big time. In addition to that, it was freaking every time I used the cutout. I tried reprogramming it with the LogWorks software and slowed down the sampling rate. Even that did not stop it from popping an Error 8 as soon as I open the cutout.